Pressure treated question

[northof54]

I'm a former dock & seawall contractor, on the Florida Gulf coast.
CCA (copper chromated arsenic) is the drug of choice for wood preservation. The numbers .25, .40 and 2.5 refer to the pounds of chemical per cubic foot of wood being treated. .40 is "OK" for damp ground, .80 and higher are best for fresh water immersion. 2.5 and 4.0 is salt water stuff.

Use the yellow pages- call a wholesale distributor who can recommend a dealer to sell you decent material. Eddie is entirely correct about 4x4 6' o.c. Easy to handle; smaller base hole. If you're not dealing with rock or clay, you should be able to jet those with a garden hose or (preferably) a 2" centrifigal pump.

If swimmers use the dock, consider the trex type deck- no slivers!

mike

 

[northof54]

I'm a former dock & seawall contractor, on the Florida Gulf coast.
CCA (copper chromated arsenic) is the drug of choice for wood preservation. The numbers .25, .40 and 2.5 refer to the pounds of chemical per cubic foot of wood being treated. .40 is "OK" for damp ground, .80 and higher are best for fresh water immersion. 2.5 and 4.0 is salt water stuff.

Use the yellow pages- call a wholesale distributor who can recommend a dealer to sell you decent material. Eddie is entirely correct about 4x4 6' o.c. Easy to handle; smaller base hole. If you're not dealing with rock or clay, you should be able to jet those with a garden hose or (preferably) a 2" centrifigal pump.

If swimmers use the dock, consider the trex type deck- no slivers!

mike

 

[CurlyDave]

There is a product called Sonotubes which are large cardboard tubes built for exactly this purpose. They claim to strip off easily after the concrete has set.

Sonotube

 

[CurlyDave]

There is a product called Sonotubes which are large cardboard tubes built for exactly this purpose. They claim to strip off easily after the concrete has set.

Sonotube

 

[SCDolphin]

I have had a friend water jet holes in the sand in a river where his dock was already built but the old posts were rotten. He sunk 4 inch pvc pipe along the dock and then poured concrete and dropped rebar into the pvc tubes. The nice thing about the pvc is that it is stays slick and protects the concrete from the weather where the sono tubes fall off and offer no futher protection.

You can predrill thru the pipe once it is in place and run galvanized bolts thru before pouring the concrete in.

Good Luck

 

[SCDolphin]

I have had a friend water jet holes in the sand in a river where his dock was already built but the old posts were rotten. He sunk 4 inch pvc pipe along the dock and then poured concrete and dropped rebar into the pvc tubes. The nice thing about the pvc is that it is stays slick and protects the concrete from the weather where the sono tubes fall off and offer no futher protection.

You can predrill thru the pipe once it is in place and run galvanized bolts thru before pouring the concrete in.

Good Luck

 

[RobA]

I thought about the whole stationary/floating/cantilever dock thing. For various reasons I really prefer stationary. I also thought about using different materials for the pilings. I thought about and like the idea of using concrete (either with Sonotubes or PVC). However, due to the location of the pond and where I wanted to put the dock getting cement delivered is not an option. So, I figured I could rent a gas powered cement mixer and do it but I have no experience with concrete.

I am leaning toward using the appropriate treated wood due to the simplicity and my uncertainty about working with concrete.

dcondo: I didn't know that using PT posts was illegal. I was told at one time that vertical posts were OK but using certain types of PT for horizontal applications (i.e. a bridge over a creek) was not OK. As you understand it I can't use PT in PA for any part of the dock?

 

[RobA]

I thought about the whole stationary/floating/cantilever dock thing. For various reasons I really prefer stationary. I also thought about using different materials for the pilings. I thought about and like the idea of using concrete (either with Sonotubes or PVC). However, due to the location of the pond and where I wanted to put the dock getting cement delivered is not an option. So, I figured I could rent a gas powered cement mixer and do it but I have no experience with concrete.

I am leaning toward using the appropriate treated wood due to the simplicity and my uncertainty about working with concrete.

dcondo: I didn't know that using PT posts was illegal. I was told at one time that vertical posts were OK but using certain types of PT for horizontal applications (i.e. a bridge over a creek) was not OK. As you understand it I can't use PT in PA for any part of the dock?

 

[dcondo]

RobA - Let me clarify my point. Placing CCA (and most other)-treated lumber in contact with a water body is illegal in PA without a permit. There used to be labels on CCA lumber stating not to place in a water body. That being said, many folks have done just that in the past and have not been caught. The question is, do you feel lucky? There may be alterate products out there. You may want to contact your local DEP office for some suggestions. Sometimes they are helpful, sometimes not. Other than that, you can pretty use treated lumber anywhere you want.

 

[TNhobbyfarmer]

<font color="blue"> There is a product called Sonotubes which are large cardboard tubes built for exactly this purpose. They claim to strip off easily after the concrete has set.
</font>

I built a 1000 square ft. log cabin on my farm. I put it on concrete piers formed by using sonotubes. I put a 12 inch diameter pad 6 inches thick and 2 feet underground for the footing, and when that dried, I poured 6 inch diameter piers using the sonotubes. Everything was tied together with rebar. These piers have functioned well as a foundation, however, were I to do it again I would do a continuous foundation. These type piers should be plenty good for a dock.

 

[RobA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I put it on concrete piers formed by using sonotubes. I put a 12 inch diameter pad 6 inches thick and 2 feet underground for the footing, and when that dried, I poured 6 inch diameter piers using the sonotubes. Everything was tied together with rebar. )</font>

TNhobbyfarmer:
I assume you didn't need enough concrete to have a truck deliver it. Did you mix the concrete yourself? Electric or gas mixer? Easy project?

 

[honeycutt]

Are these the ones you can get at Lowe's?

 

[dmccarty]

Rob,

Check you state rules on using ACQ. Since the change form CCA, which was BS, most of the PT wood is ACQ. As others have said you can still get CCA for professional use. But see if ACQ is treated, pun intended , rule/law wise as CCA PT. ACQ might be viewed differently and you might be able to use it.

Later,
Dan

 

[JustGary]

And if you do use ACQ, be sure to use stainless or hot-dipped fasteners, since the treatment will eat up bright fasteners in only a few years.

I would go with posts larger than 4" simply for the durability. In salt water around here (NW FL), marine treated posts really get eaten up at the water line. Bigger lasts longer. I don't know about fresh water, but I suspect that bigger is still better.

Creosote lasted about 30 years in salt water here, CCA about 20, so who knows how fast ACQ will get worm-eaten?

I don't know what your local power company uses, but I can get used poles for free from mine. I also don't know what treatment rating they have, but most of them still have the tag on them. I have never seen a pulled one with any termite (or any other) damage. I used some for a gazebo foundation, saving well over $1000 in concrete/pumping costs. If they are free, you might just live with them.

Good Luck!

- Just Gary