Price expected to pay for a Ford 8N/9N ?

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Alot of people replace the outer seal but I believe there is an inner seal also that needs replaced.
)</font>

The early 8n and 9n / 2n onlt had the outter seal. later 8n.. possibly 51-52 had an inner seal. they were much less prone to leakage.

9n / 2n have a product available called a sureseal.. it essentially converts the wheel bearings from splashlube to grease packed..

As Jinman indicated.. if there is evidence of axle leaks.. fix that -before- you do the breaks.

Also.. an old trick for tractors with leaky axle seals and tranny imput shaft seals was to reduce the oil volume inthe rear sump. Pull the bottom bolt in the round dipstick cover.. let oil drain there till level. That should drain it down to about 4.5 gallons. That keeps oil from pooling at the mouth of the axle seals and setting on the tranny input shaft seal. The oem sump volume was 5 gallons. I'd fairly accepted that running it a tad shy is fine. Gears still splash lube, and belly pump is at the lowest point in the sump anyway... much of the oil volume is for heat disipation..

Soundguy

 

[soberley]

Well I decided to take the plunge and purchase the tractor down the road I was looking at. The only part of the serial number I could make out with the dimming light was 8N 5032 and that was about it. He started it in fairly cold weather and it fired right up with no smoke. I drove it around for a bit and it seemed to run great. The lift worked and the there seem to be no major leaks. There was some greasy grime around the oil pan, but no actual drips. It also came with a 5 foot King Cutter Brush hog. I couldn't really talk him down very much so I ended up paying 2150.00 for it.

There are a few things I would like to ask though. I ordered an 8N service manual, but wanted to get a little bit of a jump on it. Can I use 20W40 Oil to do the oil change on it or should it be a little lighter? Is there an actual oil filter? or just an oil screen? and is there an auto equivilant? I have already read about the Gl-1 fluid for the rear 90w I think. I have also read to stay away from the GL5 Fluid. Any more hints or things I should be aware of?

I am also going to be keeping this tractor about 5 mile away from my house so I need to add some kind of security measure to keep someone from stealing it. Suggestions would be appreciated. I have already thought about removing the battery, but then read that this may not be a good thing for the battery and could shorten the life substantualy. I have also thought about removing the rotor to keep it from starting, but this would not stop a determined thief. Is there someplace I can put a "Hidden" kill switch that anyone can suggest?

I've gotten a lot of good advice here so far thank you all very much for sharing your knowledge.

 

[Soundguy]

Lots of people use 20w50 oil in units that see cold weather. A 15w40 should be fine.. if it has good oil pressure.. if it is runin constant hot temps, 30w or 40w oil.

2150 isn't a bad price for an 8n with mower

Use a sae 90wt gl1 -3 oil for the rear.. or a gl-4 oil that is listed as yellow metal safe... both castrol and penzoil make a gl-4 lube that is yellow metal safe... not sure how hard it is to find.

TSC makes a '39-52' tranny lube for ford tractors.. that seems to be fine.

On the left side of the engine is an oil canister.. in it is an oil filter cartridge.

It crosses to a NAPA 1010gold.. or a fram C3, fram C3P.. etc.

The C3 is about a 4$ filter.. the C3P is about a 5$ filter.. the napa 1010gold is about a 7$ filter.

I'd use the napa filter.. or at least the c3p for my permanent filter. if I were doing a couple oil changes in sucession to get rid of sludgy oil.. I'd use the cheapy C3 for the first 'sacrificial' oil change.. Add to that that i would warm the engine.. then add cheap jiffy store oil and tat cheap oil filter for the sacrificial oil change.. then go in with the good oil and filter.. etc.

The only issue with removingthe battery is #1.. it's difficult.. and #2.. people tend to hook them up backwards.. this tends to let the smoke out of things.. like vregs.. or alternators.

if it still has a genny.. you can setup the battery either way.. as long as you polarize the system.. if it is front mount and still 6v.. I recomend leaving it positive ground.

Kill switch? Security? Laughable.. A 2' piece of wire with gator clip ends will jump right from coil primary lead to the battery post... same way a paperclip will jump the key switch terminals.. etc.

Chains can be sawed, cut, or torched... same with steel cable...

Wheels can be removed, and left jacked up... then you have to mount a wheel on it to use...

Pretty much.. if someone wants your tractor.. they can get it... even at your house. Not much less than an armed 24hr guard with orders to shoot on site will protect your tractor IF someone wants it.

Other members have built sheds or had storage containers dropped ont heir property.. only to hav locks cut off.. or busted.. to get in .

Besides outright theft.. you need to worry about vandalism... sugar in gas.. dirt in oil.. etc.

Rotor out of the distrib WILL keep it from starting.. won't keep it from being loaded up on a rollback..

Good luck.

Also.. and I&T F0-4 manual is a great shop manual.

If you have any questions on the N let me know...

If you can't make out the SN.. lets date it by option.. steering gear box.. proofmeter drive on the governor rear cup.. distribuitor location.. etc..

Soundguy

 

[RonR]

Congrats on the purchase! For a ford and mower, you got a good deal I think.

Any chance you can park it at a close neighbor's house in exchange that you will mow their area free (or reduced cost) during the summer?

If you have a place to store it, you could get a used trailer for about $1K I think. Then it would be at your house for security.

A determined thief will have a winch on a tilt trailer, so not starting is not an issue. An electric winch is much quieter than a tractor running also.

Can you park something REALLY BIG behind it, like a bulldozer? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Maybe parallel park it between two tree, then remove the rotor? Or a huge chain and paddlelock through the frame and around a big tree? At least they need a torch then. I've known farmers that sink their implements in the ground to keep someone from easily unhooking them from the tractor and towing them away.

A blue tarp might at least disquise it. Unfortunately, anything that makes the thief spend time there also means you spend time there getting it running.

Enjoy your new tractor!
ron

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( A determined thief will have a winch on a tilt trailer, )</font>

And time.. lotsa time.. Think of it like this. have any of you guys ever showed up to buy a non running tractor.. brought your trailer, and ramps.. and a winch or comealong.

As long as the sucker will roll... an average guy and a trailer with a winch or a comealong or two can have a tractor loaded in an hour or less...

A chain will yeild to a 19$ batery operated electric tool like a harbor freight sawzall with a metal blade.. or a die grinder...

I vote for the used trailer.. probably way less than 1000$..

Soundguy

 

[soberley]

Luckily I have several "Nosey" Neighbors in the area and a few I've already met. It is an established subdivision of sorts. One of my neighbors can keep an eye on it most of the time and call me if anything is going on with me not there.

Does anyone know if they make a locking gas cap that would fit this. It looks like a pretty generic gas cap so I'm hoping I can find a locking one. I just need to keep a few people who could be heading to dishonest on the straight and narrow /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif.

I'm alo checking into the storage facility about 1/4 Mile down the road to see what he would charge for me to park it inside his fence.

Also It has 1 broken headlight...any word on cheap bulb only replacments? I can get a whole new housing and bulb for 11.00 at TSC...just not very "original" looking. I would rather just replace the bulb and keep the original light housings.

Thanks for all the replies....sometimes it helps to get other peoples thought on the subject.

 

[Soundguy]

If it is using the tract-o-lite type shells, then TSC has the replacement lamps for about 5$.

If it has been converted to 12v.. the GE # is 4419 Off the top of my head I can't remember the 6v #.. but the boxes set right next to each other on the shelf at TSC... I'm also sure napa could match it for you... If in doubt.. take the old lamp with you to size it up.. If you are lucky.. it has been repalced in the last 20 years and will have a number on the back.. perhaps even the GE #.

I'm heading to TSc later today.. I'll grab the 6v number for you if i can remember.

Soundguy

 

[soberley]

I belive it is using the tract-o-lite type shells. One more quick quetion about the lights. Should I get a 2 stage switch (Pull halfway out and turn on Headlight, Pull all the way out to turn on Headlights and rear worklight) Or a single Switch for each light? I guess what I really want to know is will the electrical system handle all 3 lights on at the same time or can I have just the rear or just the front on? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Ok.. 6v is a GE 4019 as far as i can tell.

I use the 2 stage switch.. or a seperate switch for my rear work lamp.

You don't mention if your tractor is 6v, or 12v, and if 12v, if it is a genny, or an alternator.

6v lamps are generally 35w each. That's a little over 5.8 amps per lamp, a and about 11.6a for 2 lmaps, and 17.5a for 3 lamps. Add in ignition power of 3-4 amps and you are at say.. 21.5a. Depending on exactly what the vintage and condition of your genny.. you should be right at max charge level... I believe the gennies can pop out 25a fairly well on the bench, as long as the rpm is up... they will actually pop 30a almost.. but the solder starts to fly pretty quick. I don't like to suck more than about 20 from them.. so you are right in line... Not much leftover for charge.. but then.. you do have a storage battery that will have much amp hours of capacity. As long as you leave enough for the next start.. you are ok...

A hour long jaunt with all 3 lamps on shouldn't be bad... even more if needed... if you notice the lamps going orange.. just kill the rear one.. everything should brighten up ... just make sure if you do run it heavy that you also let it run at about 1000 rpm for about 4 minutes or so to top off the charge to the battery if needed.

Biggest thing is to simply pay attention to your ammeter.. it is a center 0 job and reads net charge or discharge. You are aming at 0 as a minimum.. or positive slightly. If it is deflected negative.. you are slowly discharging.

If this is a 12v system.. you can get 35w lamps.. or 55w lamps.... if it is a genny.. most ford 12v gennies were ok for 20a.. 3 55w lamps at 12v use about 14 amps.. add 4 max for ignition and you are at a cool 18.. and good to go.. even with charge..... though if it is a lucas product.. eventually it will leave you somewhere in the dark.. that's why Lucas is refered to as "The prince of darkness".

Lastly.. if it is 12v via an alternator.. you should be good to go.. even the most wimpy lightweight typically used car alternators ( delco 10SI ) are 35+ and up. If it is some sort of retrofitted ford tractor alternator.. it could be as low as 15a /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif So.. do check to be sure!!

Soundguy

 

[soberley]

It is a 6 Volt System. I just don't want to over tax a probably well used Genny and end up having to replace it too. I think I should be OK with the battery and a 2 stage switch which is better then what it is right now...no working lights. Gotta' change 1 broken Headlight for sure and check all the wiring. I have my suspicions the switch is faulty, as the wiring looks to be in poor, but working shape. Still haven't popped the fuse from the old switch to see if it was a short that may have blown it or if the switch and wiring are just a lost cause.

Thanks for all the cross reference numbers. It makes it easier to find cheaper parts. When you start looking at the 8N orderng guides it gets kinda' pricey just for a Headlight.