Price Check Price on a TC45D

[jinman]

Maurice,
For a complete list of Dealer Installed Attachments and a comparison of full retail prices, the best site is the State of Minn. contracts page at:

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.dot.state.mn.us/equipment/contracts/tr_cpt_utl/>Contract Tractors</A>

You can essentially build the tractor you want from this site's info with full retail prices and then deduct 15% to 20% to get actual selling prices for the average dealer. It will set a good target for negotiation. Also, the site has all types of tractors, so you can compare pricing between all brands. When you find the model you want (say- TC45D) on the list, click on it and you will get an Adobe Acrobat document. Scrool down until you see the dealer installed attachments and there is a list of everything I know of. I hope this helps.

 

[Maurice]

Great! Now I can add and subtract things with out the hassle of contacting the dealer. Should save both of us some frustration.

Things I didn't see were engine heater/rear lights....

Any thoughts on their "necessity".

Being diesel I assume the heater is a must since it can get well below freezing and below zero here, at times.

The rear light could be useful for late evening romps. Where abouts would they/I mount the light(s)? On the side of the ROPS?

Anything else I need to consider?

 

[TxSam]

Maurice,

If you use the Minnesota site info, you can get the dealer cost from the Factory Code number. Here is an example:

TC45D4
310 (Supersteer, loader ready)
Suggested List Price (Less Tires): $23,522.00
Factory Code: 01811M200
Dealer cost is: $18112.00

You can use that for all options that have the Factory Code listed. My dealer showed me this and said they like to make $1000.00 per tractor deal. So we added up his cost for everything, added a $1000 and that was the selling price. Seemed fair to me, cut down on all the haggling and we were both happy. I like working with dealers that are up front. Everyone knows they need to make a profit to stay in business, so I don't mind helping them out when they are up front in their negotiations. Now I realize they make some other money in there too, but he even passed on some of their savings from NH to me also.

Anyway, maybe more than you wanted to know, but I found it very helpful when I was shopping for my deal.

BTW, I got the set-up in my sig (plus R4's) for a couple hundred over $17K, keeping in mind it is not a 'D' model. Hope that helps!

 

[spencer200]

you need to remember that there is a $1350.00 settlement allowance to the dealer right now. so if he makes 1000.00 over those cost he is really making $2350.00 The rear light part number sp1229985ds list for 27.45 the bracket needed to put the light on the tractor part number 86401040 list price 50.26 the engine block heater part number 86590117 list price 18.60.

 

[DVerbarg]

Options:
Arm rests - a must, makes the work much more comfortable
Rear light - a must, mounts on the lower right side of the ROPS by the seat belt hook
Block Heater - If you live in a cold enough area it is very helpful. I don't have one, live in northern Illinois area and have been able to start the tractor when temps have been -10 F. Would like to have one though as it would make those cold winter starts a little easier.

 

[jinman]

Maurice, if you add lights, I'd consider not adding anything outside the ROPS. I have a lot of oak tree woods and do a lot of brush clearing. I've already knocked one of the lights off it's "pegs" thanks to a limb I didn't see./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif If you don't expect to work in close quarters around trees, this may not even apply to you, but it's a thought.... Also, headlights do not work very well with a loader. You may be tempted to add lights on your ROPS to supplement you headlights. If you do, I also suggest mounting them inside the ROPS. Another consideration is trailering your tractor. You can put a Class III Boomer on a 7,000# GVW trailer, but not if you load the rear tires with liquid. If you plan on trailering, I'd go with a 10,000# GVW trailer or larger. If you plan on hauling tractor + loader + rotary cutter, you will also need a 20' trailer and a 24' trailer would be ideal. In a nutshell, there are loads of things to spend money on once you become a tractor owner./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[MikePA]

<font color=blue>I've already knocked one of the lights off it's "pegs" thanks to a limb I didn't see.</font color=blue>

Just last week I ripped off one of the amber lights on the left side of my tractor. /w3tcompact/icons/sad.gif Even though it was the flexible kind that come on the D models, one of the arbor vitae limbs must have grabbed it and held on. I didn't know I had done this until I came around again and saw it laying there in the grass. At least I didn't run over it! /w3tcompact/icons/eyes.gif I haven't checked the parts manual yet to see if I have to buy an entire new light or if I can just buy the wire fasteners then reconnect the power supply wires.

 

[jinman]

<font color=blue>I didn't know I had done this until I came around again and saw it laying there in the grass. </font color=blue>

My light didn't pull the wires loose, but the two brass captive nuts pulled out. Giving credit to a good design, none of the plastic broke, so I set my light back on it's pegs (cylindrical captive nuts) and it works fine. At least three times since, it has performed flawlessly as a "breakaway light" and I think I like it that way./w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif