Buying Advice Priorities?

[rScotty]

I had a JD 950 2WD that would do everything you listed. The tractors are worth about 5K give or take and a FEL will add about 3K. Add another 2K for 4WD and power steering. They are a simple geared tractor. Buy a tractor configured the way you need it. It’s not very practical to add loaders and such as good loaders are hard to come by.

I'd agree that would be a good model tractor to have for what he is looking for. And around here those prices would be close to what I'd expect to pay for that tractor in good honest using condition with a thousand hours or so on it. It could have twice that many hours if barn kept and still be worth buying. That's a nice old tractor that should last. They were built in the 1980s and are your basic bulletproof chore tractor that a homeowner can keep going forever. Yanmar made several of pretty much the same machine in their 27 to 33hp range.
I'm sure other companies did too, but the JD and Yanmar were the leaders in that size at that time - and both still have a group of active owners and decent parts availability.
rScotty

 

[Jchonline]

Don't forget Facebook. It is the new Craigslist for shopping

So you dont share your location on TBN but you are on Facebook and very likely sharing information with someone you dont know or have never talked to.

 

[jeff9366]

Subcompact tractors have only 7" to 9" ground clearance. Not enough ground clearance to work in woods.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers.
Heavier tractors are built with thicker steel to withstand greater stress. Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires, increasing ground clearance. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

Subcompact tractors only have two-range HST transmissions. You need a three-range HST or a gear transmission for a low range/low gear transmitting enough power to pull logs.

I recommend a heavier tractor vs. a subcompact tractor.

If you add your LOCATION to your T-B-N PROFILE, so it shows in every post you author, a member in Michigan may inform you of a quality used tractor for sale reasonably near. This happens regularly.

This happens regularly.

 

[FreedomFamilyFarms]

Just scanned my local CL and really nothing. Hopefully your area has better asking prices on used machines. Nothing there - any size - under $10k that would meet your needs except a 1980s off brand which would carry a lot of risk of ever fixing what breaks...

$6-$7k is going to be a very limiting factor, unless your used market is pretty soft. I think that will be the expectation that needs reset. Most of the smaller machines you won't even find a 2WD variant. The subcompacts need 4wd because the rears are going to break traction - add a bucketful of something out front and the rears are real likely to break traction. Just the corner of a bush hog catching a high dirt spot would have me spinning rears at times on the 25HP machine I had & it wasn't the smallest. So unless you're wanting a larger older tractor, probably retrofitted with an aftermarket loader, crossing 2WD off the list doesn't really do much for you.

The little subcompacts are neat. They can do a lot. But reality there is just some stuff you're not gonna get done (in a reasonable amount of time, or physically incapable). Kubota BX 2380, JD 1025, MF GC1715, LS MT1, etc - everyone makes one. So they are "real tractors" - not just a glorified lawn mower. But you still have to have reasonable expectations of what the limitations are and realize they will work above their limitations, but will break doing so. But even at that, at least around here, you're looking at $9kish for a decent used one. Any less is a scam or something really broken.

From there, prices just go up, unless age, condition, bazillion hours, etc warrants a smaller price.

So.....what options that leave you? If that $6-7k is stuffed under your mattress, hit up the auctions, especially estate auctions. Otherwise, spread the word if you're in no rush. Friends, family, co-workers, church members - someone you know knows someone that has a tractor they'd consider selling. Might find an older machine in good shape and with a loader that way. I woudn't want a tractor without a loader. Primary reason I even have it is to be a dirt-mover. However, the tasks you listed can all be done w/o a loader. Boom pole & carry-all can do some of what a loader can, maybe just not as convenient. Heck, think of how much you could really do with an 8N in good shape and large assortment of implements....

From the limited info we have on your needs & situation....to me I'd think something similar to a Kubota L3301 would be about the smallest you'd want. Maybe get by with smaller, but around there is where it's really starting to meet your needs in capability. So that means you're looking for something along the lines of an older Kubota L2650 or thereabout....

Looking at your use case and budget an 8N or equivalent might be worth considering. A loader is an excellent implement but your budget doesn’t leave much room for one. You might be better off with a lower priced machine with a long term plan to trade up when your budget allows.

I have 17 acres, 10 wooded and would take an 8N over a subcompact given your budget. The 8N can mow and plow efficiently. A subcompact would have a difficult time keeping up on a larger property.

 

[aczlan]

Here is one that has everything but 4WD (comes with a backblade, mower, etc) for $7500 asking price: Ford 16 Loader Tractor w/ 7' Back blade & Bush hog 5' Mower - farm & garden - by owner - sale
A larger 2WD Massey Ferguson farm tractor for $6900: MASSEY FERGUSON 15 /PERKINS DIESEL/ALLIED LOADER/POWER STEERING/3PT - farm & garden - by owner - sale
Another larger 2wd tractor for #3500 (needs a water pump): John Deere 2 loader tractor - barter - trade swap

Aaron Z

 

[TheMan419]

Heavier is better. My 24 HP New Holland performs like a whole new machine when I throw 600 pounds on the 3 point. I live in the land of lake effect snow. I use the bucket to move snow. It does just fine for 6 inches or less. Get over that and you have to take your time and make multiple passes to get the job done.

4wd is a must in my climate. I could not imagine moving all the snow I need to move in 2wd. The tractor is just too light so traction is at a premium. Some of the areas I need to plow room is at a premium too so doing it with the tiller on the back for weight is a challenge.... but make the work a TON easier.

One option is to load the tires with beet juice (Rim Guard is the brand name) so you gain several hundred extra pounds of weight. However if you are going to use the machine to maintain your nice looking lawn you do not want that extra weight. When the budget allows I will be filling my tires.

You will find a million uses for the FEL. My tractor would only be half (or less) as useful to me without one.

 

[shooterdon]

Just a note on filling tires. It is an excellent option to aid stability and traction. Beet juice (Rim Guard)is the best. My dealer wanted $250 plus another $125 to pick up the tractor and return it. I waited for a sale on -20* windshield washer fluid and bought 45 gallons and a fill adapter. Total cost under $75. I get about 30% less weight than using beet juice but saved $300 that I put towards a $150 carry all. The carry all can be used to add ballast and/or carry stuff. If pinching pennies, it is worth looking at.

Good luck with your search!!!

 

[deezler]

Looking to buy .... something around 1,500 + pounds bare weight, 20+ HP, 4WD, and a front loader. my budget of $6-7K.

Tractor will be used on 17 acres, about 2/3 wooded, relatively flat terrain. Primary needs are bush hogging, snow removal, clearing vegetation, and lifting/dragging downed trees. Located in southern Michigan.
Thanks!

Hey flawless, I don't always weigh in on these type of threads but your situation is exactly like mine was 7 years ago. I used a daily searchtempest (searches all local craigslists) for "loader" in the farm/garden sections until I found what I was looking for. I got real lucky and was first to reply for an '01 CubCadet 7305 (Mitsubishi made), a 30 HP 4wd hydro machine that weighs in close to 3500 lbs with the front loader.... for $10k. By the time I got up to near Lansing to bring it home on a rented trailer, the seller was pretty ticked off at how many higher offers he had gotten for it already. But it was mine, and perfect for my new 19 acres of woods (now down to 10 after selling two parcels).

Your budget is simply too low for 4wd and a front loader. You are going to end up with a beat-to-heck machine for that price. I got a 4-year equipment loan from greenstone farm credit for my machine. Do you have $6k CASH now? Because you should consider using whatever you have as a down payment and get a loan for the rest. You need $10-15k for a solid used machine. OR! If you can stomach that pricing, check out a new Kioti or LS tractor, they are really quite affordable, $16-17k for something NEW, beefy with all the more modern conveniences (loader quick-tach, good ergonomics, fast & strong hydro trans, stronger loader lift, etc). And a 6-year warranty, to boot.

If you end up with something used in 1500 lb, 20 HP range, you're going to struggle to move big logs, wont be able to lift much with the loader, will only be able to run a 4' brush hog instead of 5 or 6, etc, etc. Too small for woods work on 17 acres, IMO.

Good luck!

 

[TheMan419]

Just a note on filling tires. It is an excellent option to aid stability and traction. Beet juice (Rim Guard)is the best. My dealer wanted $250 plus another $125 to pick up the tractor and return it. I waited for a sale on -20* windshield washer fluid and bought 45 gallons and a fill adapter. Total cost under $75. I get about 30% less weight than using beet juice but saved $300 that I put towards a $150 carry all. The carry all can be used to add ballast and/or carry stuff. If pinching pennies, it is worth looking at.

Good luck with your search!!!

What are the environmental effects if the fluid leaks? With Rim Guard there are zero.

 

[CMV]

What are the environmental effects if the fluid leaks? With Rim Guard there are zero.

Probably the same as the 1,000's of gallons sprayed daily to clear bird poo.....