problem removing NH flail mower bearings (roller)

[ericm979]

If you remove the remaining rollers/balls can you get the housing off the shaft (with the outer race in it)? If there's a seal or shield you'd have to pull it apart.
Then you'd have the inner race stuck on the shaft and the outer in the housing. That is where I thought you were from the description.

There is only a few rollers left. You can put them all to one side and pull the bearing off center to get more space between inner and outer race. You may need to grind the edge of the race with a dremel to get enough clearance to remove rollers.

 

[sreavis]

If you remove the remaining rollers/balls can you get the housing off the shaft (with the outer race in it)? If there's a seal or shield you'd have to pull it apart.
Then you'd have the inner race stuck on the shaft and the outer in the housing. That is where I thought you were from the description.

There is only a few rollers left. You can put them all to one side and pull the bearing off center to get more space between inner and outer race. You may need to grind the edge of the race with a dremel to get enough clearance to remove rollers.

It appears to me that it has to come off as an assembly (which I attempted to do with a hub puller and heat. The back of the bearing holder/height adjustment supports the back of the bearing and will not clear the inner bearing.. Not enough clearance for a dremel. It is part #11 and #1 on the parts sheet. Maybe I didn't get the inner hot enough but it is hard as the rest of the assembly acts as a heat sink

 

[leonz]

OK, did you remove the E ring(part #14) on both ends???
It is part # 11 on the other parts lists.

 

[ericm979]

Can you attack the inner race from the outer side with a tiny dremel cutoff wheel or stone or carbide cutter? The race is big enough that it will take a while. When I have done this I have not had to cut all the way through. One you have removed enough material the race breaks from tension or it can be broken with a hammer and punch or chisel.

If there is a circlip on the end of the shaft that means that it's not supposed to be a super tight press fit. Could the end of the shaft have been damaged in a way that essentially peens it over? Can you drive the inner race deeper on the shaft without too much effort? Then you could get clearance to grind the shaft down a little. If you damage a small part of the circlip slot or a small part of the shaft where the bearing seats it should still be functional.

 

[sreavis]

There is no damage (fortunately) to the end of the shaft or the ring groove. The E clips came off easily. I removed the remaining ball bearings and seal debris to make more room and will get better position with the torch (or dremel) and try and get some circular movement with a chisel as you suggested. then maybe my gear puller will pull the assembly off. Confused as to why Ford/NH would design it this way. My Caroni, the bearing housing comes off first to give you access to the bearing. Many thanks to everyones input.

 

[Stimw]

If you have a welder that trick works very well.
After welding on the races will shrink and fall out.

 

[leonz]

Hello sreavis,

Those bearings were shrink fit on the tapered rear rollers shaft stubs if I remember my history of them as they would have spun on the rear roller stub if they were a slip fit.

I am going to suggest that you purchase a supply of dry ice and have some good duck tape on hand to shrink the roller and or stub shaft after wrapping it with a towel filled with broken up dry ice and then taping the towel around the shaft or the circumference of the roller to chill the entire side of that rear roller with dry ice.

Plan on replacing the opposing bearing as well to save a lot of extra work and filling the swear jar.

================================================================================================================================================================================================================================================================

There is no damage (fortunately) to the end of the shaft or the ring groove. The E clips came off easily. I removed the remaining ball bearings and seal debris to make more room and will get better position with the torch (or dremel) and try and get some circular movement with a chisel as you suggested. then maybe my gear puller will pull the assembly off. Confused as to why Ford/NH would design it this way. My Caroni, the bearing housing comes off first to give you access to the bearing. Many thanks to everyones input.

 

[sreavis]

Hello sreavis,

Those bearings were shrink fit on the tapered rear rollers shaft stubs if I remember my history of them as they would have spun on the rear roller stub if they were a slip fit.

I am going to suggest that you purchase a supply of dry ice and have some good duck tape on hand to shrink the roller and or stub shaft after wrapping it with a towel filled with broken up dry ice and then taping the towel around the shaft or the circumference of the roller to chill the entire side of that rear roller with dry ice.

Plan on replacing the opposing bearing as well to save a lot of extra work and filling the swear jar.

================================================================================================================================================================================================================================================================

tape the dry ice on the roller itself on the end closest to the bearing housing, correct? That makes most sense especially replacing the other side which is intact. Still wonder how the dealer mechanic. I have a factory service manual and it makes no mention of a factory puller or any special technique for that matter. Thanks again, the one positive note on fixing old equipment is getting on the forum and learning new approaches and techniques.

 

[leonz]

tape the dry ice on the roller itself on the end closest to the bearing housing, correct? That makes most sense especially replacing the other side which is intact. Still wonder how the dealer mechanic. I have a factory service manual and it makes no mention of a factory puller or any special technique for that matter. Thanks again, the one positive note on fixing old equipment is getting on the forum and learning new approaches and techniques.

===================================================================================

The more dry ice being broken and wrapped in a thin towel around and near the bearing the better. Please do not burn your hands.

If you can fit three blocks around the roller and duck tape it with an old thin towel all the better as you break the fourth block up and get the chunks as close to the stub shaft as possible and use another old towel to wrap the dry ice around there as well.

If you can save the inner race all the better to determine if you have a press fit bearing or shrink fit bearing.

If you have a good set of micrometers you will be able to tell if the roller stub is tapered after you give it a thorough cleaning with alcohol and a small steel scrub brush(only if needed) and 400 grit emery paper.

If its a shrink fit bearing you will need to rent a bearing heater or plan on using the oven as long as you have thick oven mits.

 

[aczlan]

I had to replace a very similar bearing on the tailgate of our Ford 552 round baler last year. I used the cutting torch to get the inner bearing race cherry red, then I was able to smack the housing with a hammer and pop the whole bearing assembly off of the shaft.

In my case, between me inside of the bearing and the roller, there was a free-floating piece of round pipe that is used to prevent trash from getting wrapped around the shaft and getting into the bearing

Aaron Z