Problem With New Yanmar??

[Travis_R]

Hey ya'll,

I said I would post if I had any problems with my YM2000. Well, here goes:

1......I found that the right side high beam head light don't work (there is a burnt spot in the bulb.)

2......As Stuart (RCO) told me, check all the nuts, bolts, fasteners, etc..........the exhaust AND manifold were loose.

3......The Main Question: IS IT RUNNING HOT????

I was using my Bush Hog 5' Squealer cutter today with the tractor......Made a few passes and the temp light came on......tractor is not equipped with gauges........killed tractor and very carefully cracked the radiator cap open, then immediately removed the cap.......very little water went into the over flow bottle, but the funny thing is the water DID NOT spew ot of the radiator. It is like it isn't running hot. I even touched the water inside the radiator......Of course I couldn't hold my hand on the engine or in the water, but it just didn't seem to be hot enough for the light to come on......Could it be the sending unit??? Stuart seems to think its the size of the mower, but I was just topping the grass. The tractor was in very low gear and the engine was wide open, but the rpms didn't drop and the motor never lugged and the light still came on.......WHAT COULD IT BE?

I HONESTLY DO NOT consider numbers 1 and 2 'problems', just a little 'maintenance'......But # 3 definitely needs to be looked at.

AS FAR AS RCO TRACTOR, I am 100% SATISFIED with them and their business as of now........I have NO COMPLAINTS with Stuart, John, or RCO.............

Stuart said he is sending me a new bulb in the mail.............I called him earlier today and left a message....I know it wasn't 1 minute 30 seconds later he called me back.......I can also honestly say that I was very impressed.........He said that it could be the sending unit, but was leaning more towards the mower being too big...........He said to go to Autozone and rent an infra red temp thermometer and shoot it at the radiatior when the light comes on and then call him back and let him know what the reading is........He doesn't know it yet cause I ain't returned his call, but Autozone don't have one to rent or sale to me................WHAT NEXT?

Travis

 

[California]

That doesn't sound hot to me, it sounds like a bad or grounded sensor. (The light comes on when the wire to the sensor is shorted to ground.) A hot engine, especially 'remanufactured', would have a smell of paint burning off everywhere and would radiate heat. You would not be able to touch the radiator hose next to the sensor. Take off the radiator cap and watch (cool) water return to the radiator from the upper hose. I suggest buy a new sensor.

Items 1 and 2 are trivial, any used item 25 years old needs to be checked bumper to bumper before you put it in service. (regardless of pretty paint).

YM2000 is a great model. You will love it after working a few small bugs out.

 

[Mickey_Fx]

Well, to gather a little more info to help you out, why don't you get a cooking therometer and place in the cooling water and actually measure the temp. There are other ways to make the measurement but if you don't have a gauge already, cooking therometers are cheap and easy to find.

 

[normde2001]

How much coolant is in the overflow bottle? Could that be the low coolant sensor light that you are seeing? By the way, a 5' rotary cutter is too big for your tractor.

 

[CO_Farmer]

Seriously, get and install an oil pressure and temperature gauge. $30 at my local Checker auto parts, plus a metric fitting adapter I had to get at a hardware store.
My idiot lights were coming on for no reason, after I installed gauges I finally understood that the sensors were bad. You just can't rely on those idiot lights to make any assumptions.

 

[elarson]

Just another thing you might try, in order to stick with the lowest cost diagnostics first.....
If the coolant is not hot and you can run it safely with the cap off, verify that the coolant in the radiator is flowing. Could be damaged water pump or something else keeping the coolant in the block where the sensor picks up the temperature reading.

 

[elarson]

DUH........
Guess I should read the whole thread more completely. California had it nailed.

 

[buppy69]

Ditto on the brush hog being too big regardless of whether it's running hot or not.

Eugene

 

[Travis_R]

O.K., first and foremost, thanks for all the support fellas.

I found a thermometer. I ran the tractor til the light came on. I opened up the radiator cap and put the thermometer in. It read about 200 degrees, but never went over. Was it supposed to be pressurized when I took the cap off??? It had some pressure on it, but water did not boil out all over the place, just a very little when I first took the cap off..........It read between 180-190 with the cap off and the light was still on......WHAT NOW?

I can see water swirling around inside the radiator when the cap is off and the light is on......

Thanks,
Travis

 

[MDM]

Get a temp gauge and the metric adaptor set. About $20 at Autozone. I got the SunPro 2" mechanical gauge. I have a 2210D and it never runs over 160 on the hottest of days. 200 is safe, but I would think it should run much cooler. I wouldn't run with the throttle wide open. 2200 - 2400 rpms should be plenty. You should be alright with a 5' finish mower, but go down to a 4' brush cutter. You could add some Water Wetter to your coolant. It helps a little.