buppy69
Platinum Member
I think your tractor should have been checked out by RCO before you bought it.
Eugene
Eugene
Problem With New Yanmar??
- Thread starter Travis_R
- Start date
- Views: 28282
OP
Travis_R
Veteran Member
They said that they checked it out and everything came out good...........Stuart told me that the only thing that was put on it to do some testing was a box blade...........
Travis R
Travis R
Travis_R said:
A box blade doesnt work the tractor very hard. I would think that since they have been questioned publicly about their "recon" process, they would be glad to jump on this and make it right without you spending lots of money and time trying to figure it out.. A good dealer would not have to be asked to make it right, the first call of an issue would be answered with "bring it back"..IMO..
OP
Travis_R
Veteran Member
That would be a problem, "bringing it back."
I am in Louisiana and they are in Texas................Thats why I was skeptical about buying the tractor..............But they assured me that everything would be alright and they would stand behind it 100%.............And so far, they have...............As of right now though, I am finding it pretty hard to get in tough with them............I don't know what John is doing, but Stuart is making deliveries on the west coast...............Thats what his voicemail recording says...........It also says to contact John or James and gives their numbers.........But when I call, I get recordings............................I called John Wednesday or Thursday and did get to talk to him.............But, I haven't been able to get in touch with anyone since the last conversation with John...............................I do gotta say though, they are very nice people...................I just hope we get my little problem solved very soon................I think its been long enough.
Travis R
I am in Louisiana and they are in Texas................Thats why I was skeptical about buying the tractor..............But they assured me that everything would be alright and they would stand behind it 100%.............And so far, they have...............As of right now though, I am finding it pretty hard to get in tough with them............I don't know what John is doing, but Stuart is making deliveries on the west coast...............Thats what his voicemail recording says...........It also says to contact John or James and gives their numbers.........But when I call, I get recordings............................I called John Wednesday or Thursday and did get to talk to him.............But, I haven't been able to get in touch with anyone since the last conversation with John...............................I do gotta say though, they are very nice people...................I just hope we get my little problem solved very soon................I think its been long enough.
Travis R
I'm not suggesting you dont trust them anymore... I would however make sure they understand the possition this has put you in(you cant use your tractor) and how imperitive it is that they make it right(you've already spent time and money trying to fix their guaranteed product)... Bottom line is that things happen, this may be an oddball deal for them, but you are still the customer with the warranty.. They sold you a product and gauranteed it to be reliable for a period of time..
The whole distance thing makes it tough, I ran into the same deal with mine. When I took the 2000 back for the 50hr svc, I had a list of things I wanted addressed including several leaks.. Most of it was handled when I got it back a couple weeks later, but I still had a leak from the L/R axle seal.. He told me to bring it back, that was good enough for me, and I told him I would fix it myself(I'm not scared of working on it either) since it was a 1hr drive each way, equaling 4hrs total and gas money as well.. I let him know that I was dissapointed in the repair, but basicly released him from any further warranty repairs at that time.. When you buy a used anything, eslecially if it is 30yrs old, you kinda expect to work on it at some point..
Good luck with it, I hope they do you right...
If you have flow through the radiator, clean radiator(outside/fins for airflow), fan turning, water/coolant and an accurate temperature sensing device, its pretty much covered..Have you touched the radiator(be careful)? run your hand, closely at first to avoid burns, but see if you have hot spots or worse yet, cold spots.... Have you checked the oil? Is the level correct? is it contaminated? How about your air filter?(kind of reaching here).. Are you blowing any smoke?
The whole distance thing makes it tough, I ran into the same deal with mine. When I took the 2000 back for the 50hr svc, I had a list of things I wanted addressed including several leaks.. Most of it was handled when I got it back a couple weeks later, but I still had a leak from the L/R axle seal.. He told me to bring it back, that was good enough for me, and I told him I would fix it myself(I'm not scared of working on it either) since it was a 1hr drive each way, equaling 4hrs total and gas money as well.. I let him know that I was dissapointed in the repair, but basicly released him from any further warranty repairs at that time.. When you buy a used anything, eslecially if it is 30yrs old, you kinda expect to work on it at some point..
Good luck with it, I hope they do you right...
If you have flow through the radiator, clean radiator(outside/fins for airflow), fan turning, water/coolant and an accurate temperature sensing device, its pretty much covered..Have you touched the radiator(be careful)? run your hand, closely at first to avoid burns, but see if you have hot spots or worse yet, cold spots.... Have you checked the oil? Is the level correct? is it contaminated? How about your air filter?(kind of reaching here).. Are you blowing any smoke?
OP
Travis_R
Veteran Member
Well,
I used the tractor again a while ago.............I MAY, just MAY have figured out my over heating problem.............I want ya'lls opinions on it........................I was bush hogging the field, yes, with my 5' cutter...........I was running in 2 hi and 3 hi BUT only running the engine rpms between 2000-2250??? (somewhere in that range) INSTEAD OF WIDE OPEN..........The tractor NEVER got over 195 degrees.........It stayed between 192 and 195, fluxuating SOME.............Seems to me like the lower the rpms are, the cooler it runs.........but I gotta keep enough rpms up to keep the bush hog spinning...............And NO, the cutter was NOT all the way on the ground.........I had it picked up enough to where the skids didn't drag.......................................All this took place this evening when it wasn't too, too hot..................I wonder if all in all I was just over-revving the engine, or I really do have a temp problem????.............AM I MAKING ANY SENSE????...............................
In the morning, I am going to flush the radiatior and put anitfreeze coolant back in to give it a 50/50 mixture (already pre- diluted from Wal-Mart. Its the Super Tech brand)..............
If that don't work, I guess I be up shi*s creek without a paddle because i'll probably just give up on it and sell it and take my losses, UNLESS RCO Tractor has a solution................
The straight water thats in it si definitely brown looking, but not as bad as I've seen other radiators on other vehicles/equipment...........But it might be bad enough to have to get a whole new radiator put in.............I could do that myself............It may even need a new water pump.........I could get that done, but it would cost me, but if I did that it would mean that the 6 months "labor" of the parts and labor would not do me a bit-a-good..............Yes Stuart could send me parts and HAS sent me parts (2 headlight bulbs and a temp sending unit) (I only needed 1 bulb and he sent an extra one anyway), But I don't think he's going to drive from Texas to Louisiana just to install a water pump.
I may or may not have an over-heating problem with my tractor.............Whether I do or don't, I have realized my MAIN problem is COMMUNICATION WITH RCO...........................Which hopefully they'll come through very, very soon.
Travis R
I used the tractor again a while ago.............I MAY, just MAY have figured out my over heating problem.............I want ya'lls opinions on it........................I was bush hogging the field, yes, with my 5' cutter...........I was running in 2 hi and 3 hi BUT only running the engine rpms between 2000-2250??? (somewhere in that range) INSTEAD OF WIDE OPEN..........The tractor NEVER got over 195 degrees.........It stayed between 192 and 195, fluxuating SOME.............Seems to me like the lower the rpms are, the cooler it runs.........but I gotta keep enough rpms up to keep the bush hog spinning...............And NO, the cutter was NOT all the way on the ground.........I had it picked up enough to where the skids didn't drag.......................................All this took place this evening when it wasn't too, too hot..................I wonder if all in all I was just over-revving the engine, or I really do have a temp problem????.............AM I MAKING ANY SENSE????...............................
In the morning, I am going to flush the radiatior and put anitfreeze coolant back in to give it a 50/50 mixture (already pre- diluted from Wal-Mart. Its the Super Tech brand)..............
If that don't work, I guess I be up shi*s creek without a paddle because i'll probably just give up on it and sell it and take my losses, UNLESS RCO Tractor has a solution................
The straight water thats in it si definitely brown looking, but not as bad as I've seen other radiators on other vehicles/equipment...........But it might be bad enough to have to get a whole new radiator put in.............I could do that myself............It may even need a new water pump.........I could get that done, but it would cost me, but if I did that it would mean that the 6 months "labor" of the parts and labor would not do me a bit-a-good..............Yes Stuart could send me parts and HAS sent me parts (2 headlight bulbs and a temp sending unit) (I only needed 1 bulb and he sent an extra one anyway), But I don't think he's going to drive from Texas to Louisiana just to install a water pump.
I may or may not have an over-heating problem with my tractor.............Whether I do or don't, I have realized my MAIN problem is COMMUNICATION WITH RCO...........................Which hopefully they'll come through very, very soon.
Travis R
Tractors4u
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 2,540
- Location
- Athens Alabama
- Tractor
- Deere 4310, Kubota L355, John Deere SST18 Spin Steer, 2006 Polaris Ranger
Travis_R said:
Overheating is not a little problem. Some people have said that a 5 ft bush hog is too big for a YM2000. I have ran one before without problems. You can't cut really dense and tall stuff with it, but for average height cutting, the 2000 will do it with a 5 ft cutter. Now in your next post you mentioned the gears you were running and the RPMs. 3rd gear with a bush hog is kind of fast don't you think? Are you in low or high range? I might have missed that. Don't blame yourself for over-revving the engine. There is a little red mark on your tachometer that tells you the proper speed for running your engine to achieve the desired PTO speed. You should be able to put the needle on that red mark and run the tractor with attachment without over heating. I believe you would be more apt to over heating your engine by trying to make the tractor do the same work at lower RPMs. I have never had any dealings with RCO, so I am not directing this at those guys. Your comment about them being nice and it is hard to be tough with them. That is what makes a good salesman. My mother in law will believe anything a salesman or repairman tells her, because she says, "there are so nice".
Good luck.
Tom_Veatch
Platinum Member
Travis_R said:
You wanted opinions? Here's mine: Run the tractor at the RPM which gives you the proper RPM at the PTO output shaft. With the PTO gear selector in the lowest range, that is usually somewhere around 2200 Engine RPM on these tractors. It is certainly not full throttle, wide open engine RPM. Use the transmission gears to set/control your ground speed.
540 PTO RPM will be "enough rpms ... to keep the bush hog spinning". In fact, my guess is that 540 PTO is the speed the mower is designed to run. Running it faster, i.e. wide open engine rpm, is likely to be detrimental to the mower. There is probably a big warning paragraph in the mower's operator manual emphasizing that.
This last post reads to me like you were operating the tractor the way it should be operated and you didn't overheat. 'nuff said?
OP
Travis_R
Veteran Member
THANKS FOR ALL THE SUPPORT...........I CAN'T EMPHASIZE IT ENOUGH.............
Hey,
I happened to notice something today.....................The wire that connects to my temp. sending unit was touching the tractor (grounded) and the temp light was on..............Now we all know that I installed my gauge and do not need the temp light..........But why was it on???????? That meant when I installed the new sensor, thats why the light was on.........The sensor was touching the engine block, hence grounding the sensor which made the light come on.......I wonder why this is???????? I can take the wire and touch anything metal (nuts, bolts, engine block, etc..) on the tractor and the light comes on......WHY?
Hey,
I happened to notice something today.....................The wire that connects to my temp. sending unit was touching the tractor (grounded) and the temp light was on..............Now we all know that I installed my gauge and do not need the temp light..........But why was it on???????? That meant when I installed the new sensor, thats why the light was on.........The sensor was touching the engine block, hence grounding the sensor which made the light come on.......I wonder why this is???????? I can take the wire and touch anything metal (nuts, bolts, engine block, etc..) on the tractor and the light comes on......WHY?
Tom_Veatch
Platinum Member
Travis_R said:
The sensor is actually a temperature actuated switch. It's purpose is to close at a preset temperature. When it closes, it completes a circuit that allows electrical current to flow from the battery/alternator/etc. through the light bulb to ground. Current flowing through the bulb causes it to glow.
The sensor does not generate any signals, voltage, current, etc. to cause the bulb to light. It's only function is to open and close, respectively breaking and making the circuit through the bulb. Anything that completes the circuit to ground through the bulb will cause the bulb to glow.
If the wire that goes from the bulb to the sensor makes electrical contact with a grounded object (IOW, shorted to ground), that is electrically identical to the sensor switch closing. The circuit through the bulb will be closed, electric current will have a path from the source (battery, alternator, etc) to ground, current will flow through the bulb, and the bulb will light.
