Problems connecting flat-face connectors

[eddie48]

Is there a tool that will allow me to relieve the pressure in the connectors so I can hook up my grapple without having to first loosen up the connector from the hose? I'm getting awful tired of having to have a couple of wrenches in hand every time I want to change the bucket to the grapple. BTW I have tried relieving the pressure by moving the control lever back and forth with the tractor shut off. The pressure buildup seems to be in the attachment, not in the tractor hoses.

 

[J_J]

Yes, the build up is probably in the attachment cause by heat.

Flat faced connectors are difficult, but if you use a wood or brass dowel and tap the center part of the QD, that should relieve the pressure. Use a rag over the QD.

You could also install a tee and needle valve on the attachment or use a dummy QD half, so the pressure never builds up. You could screw in a short piece of PVC into the QD and stuff it with rags to absorb any leakage.

 

[Ed L]

My guess is you are moving or mounting the attachment before connecting the hoses, it doesn't take much to put pressure on a connector.

Close the grapple and let all pressure off before unhooking the hoses, is usually all it takes. The other option is to couple the hoses together before you unhook.

Ed

 

[k0ua]

Just some thoughts, I don't have flat face couplers, I have 1/2 inch AG's but this is how it works for me:
I have a male and female each on my grapple hoses. In this manner I hook them together when I store it, as there is less chance of contamination and I don't have to mess with caps on the implement.

So before I put it away, I hook them together and then immediately unhook them so that they "puke" a slight amount of fluid out, then I hook them together for the final time. This allows for a deficit of fluid in the hoses so if they heat up there should be less pressure in the hose system. I have never had to "crack" a fitting to get them hooked up. I realize the flat face have less "puke" factor so this may not work for you, and you may not have both sexes of connectors on your hoses. I am just offering up what works for me.

Another idea is to have a short 1 foot hose with the proper sex and type of connectors on each end to put in series with your two hoses. Put it on immediately as you take them off of the machine. The hose will be empty but some fluid from the grapple hoses will flow into this empty hose segment. This will also keep you connectors clean. As your grapple will now never build up much of any pressure as it has the empty hose to fill. Every once in a while you will need to drain your connector hose as it will eventually fill with expanded fluid from the grapple.

These ideas are free, and worth every penny you paid for them

 

[FatTire]

I have the same problems with Parker Flat Face. I think the fact they don't leak much makes it worse. After I disconnect my plow (the only thing I have that uses the flat faced couplers) if I walk by on a cold morning I will plug/unplug a couple of times to let a few more drops out. This is easy if it is significantly colder than when you last disconnected the couplers, and after you do bleed a few extra drops it will be easy even on a hot day.

 

[eddie48]

Some good ideas. Thanks for taking the time to answer. I have tried most of them but not with much success. The idea of pushing in on the seal with a rod is good but I haven't figured how to hold the fitting, the rod and a hammer with only two hands. I think I may try to build something like pliers to hold the fitting in one jaw and push in the seal with the other.

 

[whis]

swap fittings to ag style

 

[jmc]

I think fluid gets trapped between the tractor connectors and the tractor valve. Then, while technically there is no pressure after relieving per owners manual, the fact that a "piston" component of the connector needs to compress that trapped volume makes it hard to connect. What usually works for me is to turn the engine off after depressurizing but leave the ignition switch on* and then hold the valve open while connecting. The fluid is then no longer trapped. What was before almost impossible would then connect very easily.

What's not easy is holding the valve open from 4 feet away. An assistant, bunge cord, or a c-clamp.



*my valves are electric/hydraulic

If I were someone like Waxman or 4shorts, I'd mount an electric switch up by the connectors to hold the valve open.

 

[J_J]

Some good ideas. Thanks for taking the time to answer. I have tried most of them but not with much success. The idea of pushing in on the seal with a rod is good but I haven't figured how to hold the fitting, the rod and a hammer with only two hands. I think I may try to build something like pliers to hold the fitting in one jaw and push in the seal with the other.

You put the barrel in the palm of your hand and use thumb and fingers to hold the dowel and then tap the dowel.

 

[Scooby074]

There was a guy/company making a flat faced connector tool. Will post if I find it