Problems starting Farm Pro 2420

[Matt_A]

I have their standard tractor which is about three years old. First of all I put a new battery on the tractor about two months ago and whatever the guy gave me at Oreilly Auto Parts must not be strong enough because I have to use the decompression lever to get the thing to turn over. Once it starts it runs Ok for about 20 seconds and then sounds like it is starting to get starved for fuel then dies. If I try to immediately restart it won't run. If I wait about 30 minutes it will do the whole proceedure over again.

The battery he gave me is a marine battery. What are the specs on the battery I should buy for this tractor? I guess I can get my money back from them but I would buy another battery from them if it is the right one. Also, I changed the fluids last year but I didn't replace the upper filter that looks similar in size to the lower oil filter. I assume this is some type of hydraulic filter. Does anyone have a recommended replacement ? Thanks!

 

[Matt_A]

I have their standard tractor which is about three years old. First of all I put a new battery on the tractor about two months ago and whatever the guy gave me at Oreilly Auto Parts must not be strong enough because I have to use the decompression lever to get the thing to turn over. Once it starts it runs Ok for about 20 seconds and then sounds like it is starting to get starved for fuel then dies. If I try to immediately restart it won't run. If I wait about 30 minutes it will do the whole proceedure over again.

The battery he gave me is a marine battery. What are the specs on the battery I should buy for this tractor? I guess I can get my money back from them but I would buy another battery from them if it is the right one. Also, I changed the fluids last year but I didn't replace the upper filter that looks similar in size to the lower oil filter. I assume this is some type of hydraulic filter. Does anyone have a recommended replacement ? Thanks!

 

[bluechip]

The upper filter is the fuel filter, you can use a NAPA 3195 there, bleed it (bleeder screw in top). there is a screen in the banjo bolt that attaches the fuel line that runs from the sediment bowl (check it for crud) to the pimary section of the injector pump (the bolt screws up from the bottom) inside this bolt is a screen, clean it and replace. You should be able to pump the system wiht the hand pump (unscrew the quarter sized knob on the pump) and hear fuel circulating back to the fuel tank. Iususally replace these with a group 31VHD interstae battery. Check your cables, if corroded, replace, you may be loosing some amps there. see if starter is getting very hot when you try to crank, windings may be bad. Never crank more than 15 to 20 seconds at a time and let cool between trys. hope this helps

 

[bluechip]

The upper filter is the fuel filter, you can use a NAPA 3195 there, bleed it (bleeder screw in top). there is a screen in the banjo bolt that attaches the fuel line that runs from the sediment bowl (check it for crud) to the pimary section of the injector pump (the bolt screws up from the bottom) inside this bolt is a screen, clean it and replace. You should be able to pump the system wiht the hand pump (unscrew the quarter sized knob on the pump) and hear fuel circulating back to the fuel tank. Iususally replace these with a group 31VHD interstae battery. Check your cables, if corroded, replace, you may be loosing some amps there. see if starter is getting very hot when you try to crank, windings may be bad. Never crank more than 15 to 20 seconds at a time and let cool between trys. hope this helps

 

[greg_g]

First off, the decompression lever IS a starting assist device, and SHOULD be used as part of your startup procedure - at a very minimum for all cold starts. After the tractor's been run for a while and the cylinders are still warm, it's not so critical.

There is no advantage to using a deep cycle battery (marine) in a diesel tractor. They're designed for low draw over extended periods of time. You need high draw in a short period of time. Even though it's a small engine, the compression ratio is still 22:1, so you need CRANKING AMPS. Don't consider anything less than 1000. If yours is like the Jinmas I had though, you'll also have to consider battery height so that the battery is not blocking radiator airflow. Because of that, I selected a Group 49 - which fit nicely into the battery box, and didn't come with a hefty price tag. For my KAMA, I use a Group 93 - which is basically just a 49 with more plates.

The other filter is for fuel, don't get them mixed up. That is, don't put an oil filter on the fuel or a fuel filter on the oil. Hydraulics aren't filtered per se, but there is a fine mesh screen on the suction pickup that should be checked and replaced as required. It's inside the hydraulic sump, under the seat.

As far as why it won't continue to run, change the fuel filter first. Then see if the problem persists.

//greg//

 

[greg_g]

First off, the decompression lever IS a starting assist device, and SHOULD be used as part of your startup procedure - at a very minimum for all cold starts. After the tractor's been run for a while and the cylinders are still warm, it's not so critical.

There is no advantage to using a deep cycle battery (marine) in a diesel tractor. They're designed for low draw over extended periods of time. You need high draw in a short period of time. Even though it's a small engine, the compression ratio is still 22:1, so you need CRANKING AMPS. Don't consider anything less than 1000. If yours is like the Jinmas I had though, you'll also have to consider battery height so that the battery is not blocking radiator airflow. Because of that, I selected a Group 49 - which fit nicely into the battery box, and didn't come with a hefty price tag. For my KAMA, I use a Group 93 - which is basically just a 49 with more plates.

The other filter is for fuel, don't get them mixed up. That is, don't put an oil filter on the fuel or a fuel filter on the oil. Hydraulics aren't filtered per se, but there is a fine mesh screen on the suction pickup that should be checked and replaced as required. It's inside the hydraulic sump, under the seat.

As far as why it won't continue to run, change the fuel filter first. Then see if the problem persists.

//greg//

 

[tat2z1969]

A marine battery is worth squat for cranking, they are made for long low draw amps, like a trolling motor or lights on a boat, for cranking a engine bigger than a small outboard they are worthless.
Chip has you going in the right direction, I would add that there is a filter in the bottom of the fuel tank that should be checked and cleaned also since you are going to check and clean or replace the other ones. it is right above the glass bowl and fuel shut off under the fuel tank.

 

[tat2z1969]

A marine battery is worth squat for cranking, they are made for long low draw amps, like a trolling motor or lights on a boat, for cranking a engine bigger than a small outboard they are worthless.
Chip has you going in the right direction, I would add that there is a filter in the bottom of the fuel tank that should be checked and cleaned also since you are going to check and clean or replace the other ones. it is right above the glass bowl and fuel shut off under the fuel tank.

 

[Matt_A]

Guys, thank you very much for all the advice. This is a such a great board with a bunch of helpful people. I will let you know how things turn out.

Matt

 

[Matt_A]

Guys, thank you very much for all the advice. This is a such a great board with a bunch of helpful people. I will let you know how things turn out.

Matt