Rotary Cutter Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008

   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #11  
Its laying the stuf over before the blades get to it. The front skirt must be too low and laying the stemy stuf down below the blades.
larry
 
   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #12  
I have had a similar problem with my much smaller Landpride RCR1548. Do you have the rubber front guards or chain? ... I have the rubber ones and I think they lay the tall stuff down below the blades and therefore the stalks don't get cut. I'm curious if the chain guards would be better that is not lay the material down as far. Thoughts?
 
   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #13  
I have had a similar problem with my much smaller Landpride RCR1548. Do you have the rubber front guards or chain? ... I have the rubber ones and I think they lay the tall stuff down below the blades and therefore the stalks don't get cut. I'm curious if the chain guards would be better that is not lay the material down as far. Thoughts?
Looking at the pics it appears BOTH guards may be on.
 
   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #14  
We have same BH 3008 cutter (540 RPM) with chain guards and it cuts both tall and short stuff fine. Normally run in Range II, 2nd gear.


image-3579275134.jpg

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   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #15  
My old 10 foot Woods leaves the grass looking like that, it has a tip speed around 11k. It just isn't turning fast enough to cleanly cut the grass, just seems to knock a lot of it over. The 3008 has an advertised speed of above 16k so "should" cut much better than the pictures show. What RPM are you running?
 
   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #16  
Tip speed is not the issue here. You can cut stalky stuf with a machete.
 
   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #17  
As some others have mentioned it is laying the stuff down and some doesn't come back up to get cut . I had this problem with my new land pride mower which had a rubber guard on front like mentioned above. I only cut grass and weeds with mine , no brush, so I took off the guards both front and rear and it now cuts very good . I am not saying for you to do this but that is what works for me .Evidently your rear guard isn't laying it down as bad or you are going slower giving it a chance to pop back up like also mentioned . I have an old bush hog that has no guards at all , that's the way it came new and i have cut everything with that . If I were on a small tractor with a seat close to the ground I would never take off that front guard if I were cutting anything but grass and even then you could hit a rock or something .
 
   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #19  
Hey Minner, did you ever figure this out?
I have a new (used) 3008 that I just put in service and am noticing some of the same results. I found this post as a result of google searching. I was thinking about putting blades on, something that I never do on a BH unless they break as I mow a lot of rocks:eek: All of my past BH's have mowed better with worse blades.

edit; looks like Minner hasn't posted in 3 years:confused3:
 
   / Problems with my new Bush Hog 3008 #20  
Hey Rusty iron....didnyou ever get yours cutting better.

Found this post in a search, cause since day one I have had the same issue and am constantly looking to improve cut quality.

My cutter is the woods equal Ds96. Spyderlk nailed the issue that I believe is the problem.

These newer cutters and the emphasis on smooth top decks....puts all the supports underneath. On my Ds96, there is like a 3" square tube that runs across the entire front...but UNDER the deck. Tall stemmy stuff gets laid down, and the nature of the shorter deck of the twin spindle cutters....by the time the tall stemmy stuff clears that front support and stands up under the deck to be cut, the stalk is already a foot or two past the blades and stands up. With HST I can go infinitely slow. When cutting goldenrod or ragweed or similar, 0.5mph quality is just as terrible as 6 mph.

I have resorted to double cutting. Which nearly doubles my time and makes it inefficient and less profitable. As I cut for hire, and cut 400-500 acres a year, I need a solution.

I am thinking about cutting that 3" or so support off the bottom, and rewelding on the TOP side of the deck. I am also trying to find some blades with MORE offset. Then I can ring the cutter "frame" higher for the same effective cut height as to try an not lay the vegetation over.

Another issue I have is in real thick dense grass. It cuts great but with uplift blades, it don't seem to expell the clippings fast enough unless you go at a snail's pace. It's like the clippings keep getting flung up into the underside of the deck, falling back down into the blades, then flung back up again, over and over. The blade rotation direction throws the grass outward in the front toward the sideskirt, but it cannot discharge through the sideskirt. Kinda like running a block off plate on a ZTR and high lift blades. The grass has nowhere to go. And the main structural supports being UNDER the deck, where air flow and material flow is important, makes matters worse.

I'm thinking of trying flat blades for this issue and ditch the lift/suction type.

Short of all of that, I am seriously considering just dropping back to a single spindle, in the 7' variety. Giving up a foot of cut width isn't what I want, but if I am constantly fighting cut quality and having to double cut, I'd be ahead in the long run.

I really wish they would make a cutter that looks more like the ones that go on the front of a skid loader. With a HIGH opening that funnels material into the cutter without mashing it down. On these twin spindles, three areas are the worst, right at the edges, and dead center. Because that's where the vegetation has to travel the farthest under the deck before it has a chance to be cut.

Curious on your thoughts, or anyone else's?

If the grass isn't super thick (like a lawn neglected.for a year) or the stalk stuff not more than 3' tall, it cuts amazingly. And will flat out fly. I shave a ton of time off my jobs that I do regularly. But I'm giving that time back on other jobs where conditions are less than optimal.
 
 

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