Project of a different kind, (accepting suggestions)
- Thread starter Fishguy
- Start date
- Views: 5953
tlbuser
Veteran Member
I sent you a PM
VaRandy
New member
Try this web site they helped me with my well problems and the price was good too. Well Water Treatment Systems
OP
Fishguy
Silver Member
VaRandy said:
Wish I'd known about this place prior to getting what I have now. Would have saved a bunch of $$$.
Thanks to everybody for their words of wisdom and advice. I believe the gunk was the sodium bentonite. Did a google on the stuff and it is impressive.
The shocking of the well seems to have cured the problem for now. I'm sure I'll have to do something again later, but if just adding bleach works, then I'm glad I added the "y" below the check valve for easy access. Next time all I have to do is unscrew the cap and pour in the bleach mixture.
Thanks again,
Steve
N80
Super Member
The hot water in my cabin smells like rotten eggs. The cold does not. The well is nearly 280 feet. If the hotwater is run for a while the smell goes away. People have told me to remove the anode from the water heater but I have not. Someone in this post suggested removing it would cause problems.
Can anyone explain this? Why does just the hot water stink and only after it has set in the water heater a while? What does the anode do? Prevent rust? Why do people say to remove it? What happens if I do?
I'm just curious. The problem only lasts one tankful of the heater and it isn't that objectionable so I'm not planning on doing anything. I'd just like to understand what is going on. Thanks.
Can anyone explain this? Why does just the hot water stink and only after it has set in the water heater a while? What does the anode do? Prevent rust? Why do people say to remove it? What happens if I do?
I'm just curious. The problem only lasts one tankful of the heater and it isn't that objectionable so I'm not planning on doing anything. I'd just like to understand what is going on. Thanks.
Soundguy
Old Timer
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2002
- Messages
- 51,575
- Location
- Central florida
- Tractor
- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
I'd bet the setting water has let the hydrogen sulfide smell come out.. especially after heating and setting.
Soundguy
Soundguy
SPIKER
Elite Member
N80:
they said removal of the hot water anode rod was beause the anode that comes standard in hot water heaters are made of a material that basically rusts away it does so to prevent the water heater from RUSTING through. BUT they make a great home for bactiria to land & surive/eat on... SO if you have some high iron water then this rod gets slimey with bacteria which causes a rotten egg smell in the hot water. to fix this you change the material that the anode rod is made of. this means that for high iron water this is a al/magniezium type rod (cant rember which rod for which type of water.!??? ) anyhow there I belive several different types of hot water heater anode rods. you NEED one type for high iron content water. you need a different type for water without the iron...
you HAVE to have it in there to prevent the bacteria from eating on the pipes & hot water heater. they are there and shocking the well will kill them off for a short time and they will be back. remember drinking water shocked with bleach can be very harmfull, also using pool tabs is dangerous and can't be used to drink for a long time as that stuff can cause serius health hazzards.
anyhow take a water sample to a good plumbing supply and get the right anode rod for you're water and you will be set..
mark M
they said removal of the hot water anode rod was beause the anode that comes standard in hot water heaters are made of a material that basically rusts away it does so to prevent the water heater from RUSTING through. BUT they make a great home for bactiria to land & surive/eat on... SO if you have some high iron water then this rod gets slimey with bacteria which causes a rotten egg smell in the hot water. to fix this you change the material that the anode rod is made of. this means that for high iron water this is a al/magniezium type rod (cant rember which rod for which type of water.!??? ) anyhow there I belive several different types of hot water heater anode rods. you NEED one type for high iron content water. you need a different type for water without the iron...
you HAVE to have it in there to prevent the bacteria from eating on the pipes & hot water heater. they are there and shocking the well will kill them off for a short time and they will be back. remember drinking water shocked with bleach can be very harmfull, also using pool tabs is dangerous and can't be used to drink for a long time as that stuff can cause serius health hazzards.
anyhow take a water sample to a good plumbing supply and get the right anode rod for you're water and you will be set..
mark M
I live up north and I have a well that is 175 feet which isn’t bad for my area. I’m in an aquifer so I don’t want to dig another well to see if I can by step the sulfur problem I’ve had. If it’s sulfur then the best system I’ve found is the Water Soft Pervector. I’ve had this system for about 12 years or so and haven’t touched it since I put it in. It automatically back washes and is no trouble at all. I don’t advise the green sand. I was told by a water man that it is a toxic mess.
The pervector runs the whole house but in our kitchen I have an outlet that we use for drinking and cooking. The feed to the outlet is two filters followed by UV which is the LAST thing before the faucet. The first filter is 5 microns and the second is 1 or .5 microns but I’m not to worried about the exact filtration size of it because the water is excellent and absolutely pure. I made the system myself from Home Depot or Lowe’s filters and containers. I purchased the UV on the net. They say the lamps only last a year but don’t believe it, mine has been running several years and is monitored for effectiveness. Just make sure there is no scale or debris going into the lamp housing or you’ll fog the lamp and it will lose effectiveness. This is one of the reasons why it is the last item in your purification system. The other reason is that you want to make sure the last thing that hits the bacteria is just before your outlet. Filters can accumulate bacteria if they have access to oxygen.
The Pervector system ran me about 6 or 7 hundred bucks but it is worth it. I’ve been told if your water is hard the Pervector won’t work. Mine is on the hard side but I still haven’t had a problem.
One more thing. I bypassed the house water when I ran the outside faucets so as to save filtration. I found out after all these years that it wasn’t required as my Pervector doesn’t have carbon in it that reaches an absorb point.
If you have sulfur you have to watch for bacteria as it likes to grow in that environment.
Good luck.
Rob-D
The pervector runs the whole house but in our kitchen I have an outlet that we use for drinking and cooking. The feed to the outlet is two filters followed by UV which is the LAST thing before the faucet. The first filter is 5 microns and the second is 1 or .5 microns but I’m not to worried about the exact filtration size of it because the water is excellent and absolutely pure. I made the system myself from Home Depot or Lowe’s filters and containers. I purchased the UV on the net. They say the lamps only last a year but don’t believe it, mine has been running several years and is monitored for effectiveness. Just make sure there is no scale or debris going into the lamp housing or you’ll fog the lamp and it will lose effectiveness. This is one of the reasons why it is the last item in your purification system. The other reason is that you want to make sure the last thing that hits the bacteria is just before your outlet. Filters can accumulate bacteria if they have access to oxygen.
The Pervector system ran me about 6 or 7 hundred bucks but it is worth it. I’ve been told if your water is hard the Pervector won’t work. Mine is on the hard side but I still haven’t had a problem.
One more thing. I bypassed the house water when I ran the outside faucets so as to save filtration. I found out after all these years that it wasn’t required as my Pervector doesn’t have carbon in it that reaches an absorb point.
If you have sulfur you have to watch for bacteria as it likes to grow in that environment.
Good luck.
Rob-D