Project Root Cellar ......out of a 8' tall x 14' metal culvert

[forgeblast]

I was just reading a book that showed a culvert like that split in half and then attached to 55 gallon drums. It made a taller structure.

 

[dragoneggs]

I'm still on the knee wall bandwagon. I think the arched roof with more floorspace and shelving is the way but I do see the big cost difference.

 

[MotorSeven]

Side hill & doorway. Make the cut 8-10" off the bottom, drain pipe to daylight, then fill with gravel. I can cut it out with a zip saw, insulate both sides with 2" high density foam. Didn't get a chance to tip it up yet....maybe today.........

 

[MotorSeven]

I flipped it with the tractor forks:

I'm 6'4"' and it made me look small:

Ok, Vertical it is...the thing is bigger than it looks, plus I can use the interior posts to help support the roof, and build a "attic" in the ><3' of dead space above our heads. Cost will be minimal and then there is the cool echo factor

 

[forgeblast]

That picture really shows the space you have in it. I was worried that you would not have enough space once shelves were in place. Cant wait to see it finished!

 

[dragoneggs]

That picture really shows the space you have in it. I was worried that you would not have enough space once shelves were in place. Cant wait to see it finished!

Yes it will be interesting to see how you shelve and make use the the tall enclosure. I am also interested to see you entrance and how you fabricate that. Keep posting pics!

 

[PhysAssist]

Yes it will be interesting to see how you shelve and make use the the tall enclosure. I am also interested to see you entrance and how you fabricate that. Keep posting pics!

Something you might want to consider that no one else mentioned....

Instead of cutting it in half, just make one long cut down the side of the culvert, then use hydraulic jacks (or other method of choice) to spread the cut edges apart until you get to the floor width you want, then drill the metal for lag screws and lag in pressure treated planks lengthwise with one end on each of the cut edges.

(Or better yet, bolt or weld short lengths angle iron at intervals along the cut edges with holes already drilled for the lag screws.)

Flip it it with the planks down and you have a flat floor that you can drop down onto a gravel base pad, a at least an 8' head room area and straight shelves will easily mount along the walls.

You also have only to build end walls with flat bottom profiles.

Just a thought....

Thomas

 

[dragoneggs]

Something you might want to consider that no one else mentioned....

Instead of cutting it in half, just make one long cut down the side of the culvert, then use hydraulic jacks (or other method of choice) to spread the cut edges apart until you get to the floor width you want, then drill the metal for lag screws and lag in pressure treated planks lengthwise with one end on each of the cut edges.

(Or better yet, bolt or weld short lengths angle iron at intervals along the cut edges with holes already drilled for the lag screws.)

Flip it it with the planks down and you have a flat floor that you can drop down onto a gravel base pad, a at least an 8' head room area and straight shelves will easily mount along the walls.

You also have only to build end walls with flat bottom profiles.

Just a thought....

Thomas

Now that is a cool idea! I wonder what kind of force it would take? Sounds a bit scary to me but I really like the creativeness.

 

[MotorSeven]

Waiting for my Backhoe guy to show.....standing-by.

PA, sounds interesting, but much more work...maybe I am getting lazy eh?

 

[PhysAssist]

Now that is a cool idea! I wonder what kind of force it would take? Sounds a bit scary to me but I really like the creativeness.

Thanks DE!

I guess you could lessen the required force by having someone else there heating up the culvert with one of those weed burner torches you hook up to a 20# LP tank.
Propane Torch

But I'm not sure if you could get it hot enough to make a difference though.