proper backhoe for a 3320?

[slaveToHorses]

I ended up with a 447 and think it is a better fit. So did my salesman although he would have happily taken the extra money

The rockshaft-only loading of the 447/448 was a big selling point for me and my tractor just barely handles the 447. So far, the folks I have talked to that have the 448, need to use the stabilizers to finish loading their hoes (on a 3x20). Maybe some of the folks here that have a 448 could talk to that. For me, having to use the stabilizers wouldn't be worth the 1ft extra reach the 448 gives you. Although extra reach is nice, especially when you don't have a swivel seat!

As far as weight and size, hanging off the back of the machine, in my opinion, the 447 is a better match.

 

[_M_]

I don't have to use my stabilizers to mount my 448 on my 3320. It's possible that the dealer increased my relief valve pressure to make this possible, although they didn't mention doing that to me. I agree that it's much more convenient to mount it sans stabilizers. Personally, having the 448, I wouldn't want anything less, even if I did have to mount it with stabilizer assistance. I'm sure the 447 is great too, I just know that many of my projects would have taken significantly longer had I had a smaller/less powerful hoe.

I also have very steep terrain. When I have the hoe mounted, there are times when I'm traversing a slope that I'll actually unlock the hoe and swing the boom to the uphill side (maybe even reach the bucket out) for better balance. It can really make a difference. I only do this while going quite slow. Would go slow in these circumstances even without the hoe mounted. I also sometimes lower the downhill stabilizer so it's just a couple inches off the ground. If I did start to tip, that would very likely stop the tractor from going all the way over. I think I could make the arguement that I could traverse a steeper slope with the hoe mounted than without when using it as I described above. Really have to pay attention to what's going on in that type of situation. I got this technique from a TLB operating book.

 

[JEA]

I went with the 447 on our 4310 (equivalent to the 3320) because of weight,stress on the frame, etc. So far (1.5 years in) it seems quite a good compromise, and has worked out very well with this size frame.

JEA

 

[hideaway44]

I have had my 3320 with the 448 for a year and have 165 hours on the tractor. Pretty stoney ground on my property, with many weighing in at 300 to 500 pounds, generally 1 to 3 feet below the surface. Have not had any problems mounting or dismounting the hoe, and it makes short work of the rocks when digging or trenching. I am slowly putting in a small access road through my 20 acres and the hoe has been invaluabe in stumping and smoothing the ground. Having not run a 447 I can't speak to its ability or capacity. I know that for my property I needed the most backhoe I could put on the tractor. I have not regretted this at all, and it is amazing what this tractor can do. BTW, I also have a 72" rear mounted snowblower and a 300CX loader. Just cleaned up from 16"+ snowstorm. I know that many like the front mount, but with my driveway I need the use of the loader to push back banks. Had a blast, can't wait for the next. Good luck on the purchase.

FM

 

[rockyridgefarm]

Hi, just a couple of random points.

The 447 and 448 are both compatible. The hoes and tractors were designed for each other. Deere doesnt use a subframe, because it isn't needed. A subframe would reduce ground clearnce and many machines that use them can NOT have a mid mower at all. You not only can have a mid mower with Deere's hoes, but you can even mow with the hoe mounted. Everyone wants to do THAT! OK< but you could.

The RSA mount is far better than a subframe or three point mount for ease of install and strength while in use.

Don't use the stabilizers to mount the hoe. Please. This comes up from time to time. The problem is easy to resolve the correct way. Check the Deere FAQ for adjusting the Rock Shaft Arm height. It is just a matter of ttrning a nut.

The 447 is smaller, lighter, and costs less.

The 448 is longer (higher too), heavier, and costs more.

The 447 only works on mid chassis, the 448 can go on large chassis CUTs. If you might upgrade tractors the '8' is a safer choice.

When we trench, wee usually use two operators, one drives the other digs. It really goes faster that way. When there is only one operator, we always walk over the tire instead of dismounting. That is a big time saver too.

My freind has a Woods hoe. they are really nice. But I wouldn't give up RSA for that.

Oh, I have the 47. I probably should have gotten the 48. But I am very pleased with it and really have no regrets.

 

[SFish]

Hey Mike, I found your FAQ post for "How to adjust rockshaft height," but the link takes me to the TBN forums main page. I would like to make the process of mounting the 447 require less swearing and skinned knuckles. steve

 

[slaveToHorses]

Hey Mike, I found your FAQ post for "How to adjust rockshaft height," but the link takes me to the TBN forums main page. I would like to make the process of mounting the 447 require less swearing and skinned knuckles. steve

I think it is in the manual too.
If you stand behind your tractor and look to the left, and behind the seat you will see a metal rod that runs back to the rockshaft linkage. There is a turnbuckle-style nut there with a backing nut. You use this to adjust the maximum lift angle of the arms. I forget the proper spec for the angle but if you go too far, then when you pull the rockshaft lever all the way back you will hear the pump bypassing. That indicates you are too far.
I had to adjust this to the maximum, then I had to adjust the pin receiver plates on the backhoe mount. I had to move them down a bit so the arms would lift it a bit higher.

Naturally you have to do both these adjustments while the hoe is off the tractor.

 

[SFish]

Thanks slaveToHorses. I presumed that what you describe must be the adjustment, but I thought I would ask here first. I have already moved the movable latch plates to their minimum position and the L pins still required a lot of persuasion to put in. My manual says to contact the dealer about the position adjuster, and they would not tell me how to do it myself. Steve