Pros and Cons of loaded back tires

wushaw · May 21, 2006

I would suggest you try without filling first to see if you need them filled.
If you experience wheel spin or a light rear when working with FEL then filling is a good thing and easy to do.

I have mine filled on both my 29 and 15hp tractors and the 15hp tractor doesn't have a FEL, I did it for traction.

Oh yea be very careful working with the FEL without any rear ballast.

wushaw · May 21, 2006

I would suggest you try without filling first to see if you need them filled.
If you experience wheel spin or a light rear when working with FEL then filling is a good thing and easy to do.

I have mine filled on both my 29 and 15hp tractors and the 15hp tractor doesn't have a FEL, I did it for traction.

Oh yea be very careful working with the FEL without any rear ballast.

john_bud · May 25, 2006

First off, don't use just plain water. It will rust the rims up bad. Even a gallon of antifreeze will add a bunch of corrosion inhibitors.

If you are going to use the tractor as a loader more that just a little bit, fill the tires. There is little to make you queezy like curling the bucket only to have the back of the tractor pop off the ground. Usually just one wheel, tilting you at a 30 degree angle.

The extra compaction is minor, IMHO. But then, I don't mow with the tractor. If you mow, and have turf tires, I would think the compaction issue was minor. Do the math with the sales guy on the ground contact psi (or check out the firestoneag web page).

If you want to save some $$, you can buy a cheap kit to fill the tires your self. Not hard, but will take an easy afternoon. Just be sure to add some antifreeze for corrosion protection. Probably 3-5 gal per tire.
Around here, NAPA carries the kits.

jb

john_bud · May 25, 2006

First off, don't use just plain water. It will rust the rims up bad. Even a gallon of antifreeze will add a bunch of corrosion inhibitors.

If you are going to use the tractor as a loader more that just a little bit, fill the tires. There is little to make you queezy like curling the bucket only to have the back of the tractor pop off the ground. Usually just one wheel, tilting you at a 30 degree angle.

The extra compaction is minor, IMHO. But then, I don't mow with the tractor. If you mow, and have turf tires, I would think the compaction issue was minor. Do the math with the sales guy on the ground contact psi (or check out the firestoneag web page).

If you want to save some $$, you can buy a cheap kit to fill the tires your self. Not hard, but will take an easy afternoon. Just be sure to add some antifreeze for corrosion protection. Probably 3-5 gal per tire.
Around here, NAPA carries the kits.

jb

KentT · May 26, 2006

( Options for filling include:
1. just water (if you don't think it'll ever freeze or if you don't think you'll ever use the tractor while the water in the tires is frozen,
2. water and automotive antifreeze (keeping in mind that any leak leaves a toxic substance if any of your animals should drink it),
3. calcium chloride (which is heavier than the others and won't freeze, popular up north and I'll be surprised if you can even find it in Texas, and since it's corrosive, it will over a long period of time probably rust the rims, and if it leaks out, it'll kill any vegetation it leaks onto),
4. non-toxic antifreeze (sometimes known as RV antifreeze for the potable water systems in RVs),
5. foam (several different types, very expensive, and very difficult to cut the tire off the rim if you ever need to replace tires),
6. if I remember right, something called Rim Guard, which is a non-toxic substance made from beet juice.

)
I've used winter-mix windshield washer fluid for about the last 10 years to load my own small tractor tires. I can get it for about $1.00 a gallon by the case. I haven't tried getting drums of it, since I never need that much at a time. It is much more environmentally friendly than normal antifreeze, protects to -20 F, is noncorrosive, and is safe for rubber and plastic...

KentT · May 26, 2006

( Options for filling include:
1. just water (if you don't think it'll ever freeze or if you don't think you'll ever use the tractor while the water in the tires is frozen,
2. water and automotive antifreeze (keeping in mind that any leak leaves a toxic substance if any of your animals should drink it),
3. calcium chloride (which is heavier than the others and won't freeze, popular up north and I'll be surprised if you can even find it in Texas, and since it's corrosive, it will over a long period of time probably rust the rims, and if it leaks out, it'll kill any vegetation it leaks onto),
4. non-toxic antifreeze (sometimes known as RV antifreeze for the potable water systems in RVs),
5. foam (several different types, very expensive, and very difficult to cut the tire off the rim if you ever need to replace tires),
6. if I remember right, something called Rim Guard, which is a non-toxic substance made from beet juice.

)
I've used winter-mix windshield washer fluid for about the last 10 years to load my own small tractor tires. I can get it for about $1.00 a gallon by the case. I haven't tried getting drums of it, since I never need that much at a time. It is much more environmentally friendly than normal antifreeze, protects to -20 F, is noncorrosive, and is safe for rubber and plastic...

HGM · May 31, 2006

(
I've used winter-mix windshield washer fluid for about the last 10 years to load my own small tractor tires. I can get it for about $1.00 a gallon by the case. I haven't tried getting drums of it, since I never need that much at a time. It is much more environmentally friendly than normal antifreeze, protects to -20 F, is noncorrosive, and is safe for rubber and plastic... )

So, you change it?????????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifWhy would you take it out?? I'm following allong to decide whether to fill mine as well.... I would think that once I filled them, their full, never to wory about it again untill I need to repair a tire.. Just curious....

HGM · May 31, 2006

(
I've used winter-mix windshield washer fluid for about the last 10 years to load my own small tractor tires. I can get it for about $1.00 a gallon by the case. I haven't tried getting drums of it, since I never need that much at a time. It is much more environmentally friendly than normal antifreeze, protects to -20 F, is noncorrosive, and is safe for rubber and plastic... )

So, you change it?????????? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifWhy would you take it out?? I'm following allong to decide whether to fill mine as well.... I would think that once I filled them, their full, never to wory about it again untill I need to repair a tire.. Just curious....

mikim · Jun 1, 2006

My old 8N had filled tires, my TC45 does not -yet.....in my case ---- pros for filling = weight & stability .... cons for filling = weight for trailering...I'm still trailering my tractor a lot so until I get to a point where it will be staying put for the most part - I'll wait to fill the tires. BUT - I WILL fill them ....makes a big difference in traction and "lead in the pants" stability. I'll fill them with a 25%antifreeze / 75%distilled water mix.

mikim · Jun 1, 2006

My old 8N had filled tires, my TC45 does not -yet.....in my case ---- pros for filling = weight & stability .... cons for filling = weight for trailering...I'm still trailering my tractor a lot so until I get to a point where it will be staying put for the most part - I'll wait to fill the tires. BUT - I WILL fill them ....makes a big difference in traction and "lead in the pants" stability. I'll fill them with a 25%antifreeze / 75%distilled water mix.