PT-180 quick attach issues

[curtjeep]

Hey guys,

Been a long time since I posted… like since my last issue with the PT.

Anywho, I keep noticing that I am getting a steady drip from the male quick attach. Yesterday I installed a rather large hydraulic cooler and then tried to see how hot the hydraulics would get (pics coming soon) and attached my stump grinder. When I was removing it I had it idled down all the way with the PTO off and when I disconnected it fluid started spraying out of the quick attach. I **** down the tractor I checked the PTO lever and it was definitely off but I don’t know why fluid would continue to come out when disconnected. It didn’t happen again when I started the tractor back up… any ideas? Should I just swap the QA fitting?

BTW, the hydraulic cooler worked great. I used my weber IQ with a probe in the resovoir to see how hot it would get and the max temp I saw was 153 with the brush cutter while trying to heat the fluid. I will post up pictures when I clean up the installation b/c I am NOT proud of how it looks. I have to wait for a fitting to come in to mount it straight.

 

[m5040]

My guess would be on the lines that it takes a certain amount of pressure to turn the attachment, and anything less (low psi) is caught between the stalled motor and the closed control valve. To me it doesn't make sense. If you ever tried to remove the quick attach when under pressure it is near impossible to pull back the release (unless you have connect under pressure expensive fittings), so you may have had some residual oil, under low pressure and the check ball/valve in your hyd coupler didn't seal properly. I have had mine get stuck at a slight angle visible if you look at the end of the fitting and I correct it by cycling a connect/disconnect again. Doesn't mean you need a new fitting, unless it continues to happen.
Pictures would be nice.

 

[curtjeep]

As a side note, did this the other day…

Time for a joystick loader valve…

 

[ponytug]

Ouch! Old age or is there a story?

FWIW: The internal valve cartridge might be available as a separate part.

All the best,

Peter

 

[m5040]

Since yours broke, you may want to consider a mod I did on mine. I bolted a strip of metal to the back of the "dash" and drilled and taped. I then installed the control levers on the other side (you then have to switch the lift/bucket cyl hoses to work in the right direction).
This gives you the industrial standard for 2 joystick loader controls. I did an old post on it with all the benefits like not having to go through the UP detent before the FLOAT is reach, which is backward.

 

[m5040]

But if you ever find an easy way to install a one stick control, please post.

 

[curtjeep]

I bought one and was about to install it because I want a joystick, but when I had finally got all of the fittings I needed and was about to install I figured out it did not have a float Function so… useless… sorta… and they would not return it because I had “installed” it.

 

[curtjeep]

Here is my cooler I added. When I get around to it I will swap the hose looping around it to a hard tube. Until then. It works. And after 8+ hours of brush cutting yesterday and 4 hours of mowing today, it works.

 

[m5040]

My cooler is much smaller but give me a few hours of work in hot weather. I had the stuff laying around.

 

[m5040]

As far as your single stick control lever, the float function is in the valve. Are you changing out the complete valve? You only need the linkage and stick, I recently made one and it works ok.
The float function will need the spool push in the valve deep and against a spring. You would need the leverage of the control to push it in and the linkage would need to be adjusted to push it in adequately. It would be the only spool that would go in that deep, a full notch deeper then the others.