PT Implement Choices / Questions

   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #1  

wasabi

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2002
Messages
713
Location
Cullowhee Mountain, NC
Tractor
PT2445 and PT1850
Hey all,

I'm soliciting thoughts and feedback regarding some contemplated additions to our PT implement arsenal. Maybe I am suffering from an early case of spring fever, but I am itching to break some ground and tackle some projects that, naturally, require gear I don't yet have. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Here's what I'm thinking about:

A 60" rotary cutter. I put off getting this last year, so now the weeds and saplings have an extra year of growth. I have heard and registered the advice re: whimpy PT tires, and will plan to change them out from the git go....any other notable caveats? I'm assuming from descriptions that PT's "bushog" is at least as heavy duty as competitors...and that the 60" will be no problem for the 45hp Deutz. Do I need to also get replacement blades?

Next, a 60" Tiller. Also assuming it is as good or better than competitors....anyone have extensive experience with PT tiller they can share. Does it work better forward than back?

A landscape rake. Having never used such an item, I'm wondering if I am way off base...what I'm trying to do is, after clearing the trees and stumps, efficiently get the roots, rocks and such out of the way before tilling...is it worth the money?

Lastly, with old logging roads to maintain and/or rebuild, I'm wondering if a box blade will be more useful than the tilt blade that I have.....I've read numerous accounts here about that being the way to go, but, again, have no direct personal experience....at $450, if it really makes a difference, it could be worth it.

Appreciate any wisdom and feedback for this still wet behind the ears PT owner/operator....this is a significant amount of money and I want to make the best choices as it may be a while before the CFO let's me revisit the essential implement well at Tazwell. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #2  
Buy 'em all and post reviews. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

<font color="red"> Next, a 60" Tiller. Also assuming it is as good or better than competitors....anyone have extensive experience with PT tiller they can share. Does it work better forward than back? </font>
I don't have "extensive" experience, since I've had it only a year. I use it for gardens, primarily, which have been worked before, and our soil is easy. It does a great job. Generally I run one pass forward, then one backward, deeper, which covers the tracks. All done. A rock caught in it can stop it, but doesn't seem to damage anything. Turning off the PTO is usually enough to get it to drop out.
The 72" 3-spindle rough cut goes through everything I've aimed it at (up to 2" saplings only) so the 60" rotary should be impressive with the 45HP. (The rough cut has filled rear tires, which haven't gone flat, but they don't track straight and they rub the deck.)
Sounds like you really need a powered rake. I've never used one, but will look forward to hearing how you like it. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Sedgewood should chime in about box blade. Never used one of those either. I saw that someone complained mildly about scarifier function on the PT version some time ago.
Have fun>
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #3  
<font color="red"> I saw that someone complained mildly about scarifier function on the PT version some time ago </font> <font color="black"> </font>
That was me. The scarifiers are easier to adjust and have more positions on aftermarket blades. On the PT blade, they're either up or down, and you have remove two bolts and loosen two others to change the position. For maintaining a gravel driveway the box blade is very useful though.

Scott
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Charlie. Thanks for your input.... you are consistently good at advising me on how to spend hardearned money! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif<font color="blue"> The 72" 3-spindle rough cut goes through everything I've aimed it at </font> ...only the 60" is listed on the price list for the 2445, so I didn't really give it much thought....you're pulling it with your 1845 right? ...same hp with the Deutz.....hmm, mayber wider would be better?

Scott. <font color="blue"> For maintaining a gravel driveway the box blade is very useful though </font> How bout for scraping down and leveling a dirt/rock road base in preparation for seeding....do you think there is a major advantage over an angle blade?
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #5  
<font color="red"> you are consistently good at advising me on how to spend hardearned money! </font>

Glad to be of service.
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #6  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( hmm, mayber wider would be better? )</font>

Maybe, maybe not. I believe that the brush hog is a much different animal than the rough cut mower. Maybe Charlie can explain the underside of the rough cut mower. The brush hog that I have (48") is a single monster spindle with two swinging blades. Very tough beast. Eats everything. I guess it depends what you want to cut. Heavy brush and saplings might be better cut with the brush hog than a rough cut mower. The smaller footprint of the brush hog is not a factor if you have to take less than full bites with the rough cut mower. The brush hog should not need multiple passes, even in the heaviest of stuff. However, once you have the heavy stuff gone and keep it mowed regularly, you may never need the brush hog again, as a mower could handle it. I hope that I have succeeded in muddying the water for you... now the only way to be truly satisfied is to buy both /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #7  
MossRoad & Wasabi:
The rough cut mower is about half way between a finish mower and a rotary (brush hog). It has three spindles, like a finish mower, but they have tough disks (stump jumpers) mounted on them, as do some but not all brush hogs. Two blades are hinged to each stump jumper. Essentially, therefore, you have three brush hogs under a single deck, although obviously the blades are smaller and lighter than the two blades on a single spindle.
<font color="blue"> However, once you have the heavy stuff gone and keep it mowed regularly, you may never need the brush hog again, as a mower could handle it. </font>
That's essentially true, but we've been cutting pastures for a lot of years with a 6 foot Woods brush hog. If it doesn't have to be golf-course smooth, you can use the brush hog to maintain a grass area. We've never tried keeping the blades sharp, but if we did, I suspect the cut quality wouldn't be bad, just not quite as good as a finish mower or the PT rough cut with Sedgewood blades. The brush hog should certainly be as good as the rough-cut mower with PT blades. If you care, there is a thread or two last summer on blades for the 72" rough cut.
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #8  
wasabi <font color="red">Lastly, with old logging roads to maintain and/or rebuild, I'm wondering if a box blade will be more useful than the tilt blade that I have.....I've read numerous accounts here about that being the way to go, but, again, have no direct personal experience....at $450, if it really makes a difference, it could be worth it.</font>

Absolutely, and the heavier the better. I have a Bush Hog SBX720 which works quite well but a couple hundred extra pounds help a lot. You need the weight to keep it from chattering while loosening compacted soil/gravel with the rippers. There's a picture or two in a thread here somewhere. It also needs to be a foot or so wider than the wheel track. So far I've used the box blade more than any other implement. To build and rebuild driveways. When those projects are done it'll do the annual maintenance in a flash. Then the rough cut mower will become the most used implement I think. The blade I find is useless for anything but plowing snow and its not even great for that - the wheels are set too far back from the blade for easy depth control. I also have an 8 foot landscape rake that's a bit too big - 7 foot would be better - and find it good for moving debris around but difficult to grade a road with.

Sedgewood
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #9  
Charlie <font color="red"> The rough cut mower is about half way between a finish mower and a rotary (brush hog). It has three spindles, like a finish mower, but they have tough disks (stump jumpers) mounted on them, as do some but not all brush hogs. Two blades are hinged to each stump jumper.
</font>

Knowing PT's propensity for using the same parts in more than one machine I'd wager the brush cutter and rough cut mower use the same spindles / stump jumpers. Anybody know?

<font color="red"> Essentially, therefore, you have three brush hogs under a single deck, although obviously the blades are smaller and lighter than the two blades on a single spindle. </font>

And the difference in cutting capacity between PTs relatively heavy rough cut blades and my light finish blades is surprisingly little - though my light blades tend to bend they will cut the heavy stuff nearly as well. My next set hopefully will be tougher steel - or alternatively just cheap and disposable; I'm leaning toward the latter being easier than sharpening blades. Also as I get the heavy brush cutting done the bending blades will become a non issue I think.

Sedgewood
 
   / PT Implement Choices / Questions #10  
<font color="red"> Also as I get the heavy brush cutting done the bending blades will become a non issue I think.
</font>

I'll take that bet.

I doubt I ever bent blades on the stuff I was trying to cut. It was on the stumps, stones, and the concrete pad for the watering trough. Mowing in a nicely groomed area just increases the challenge to find things with which to do damage, but I'm usually up to the task.
 

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