tlb
Silver Member
I like (not really) saving up multiple problems, then posting all at once.....called PT but they are closed this week.
Issue 1: There is a recent post about steering issues. My PT425 (circa 2002) started having similar issues last time mowing. Tractor was drifting to the left and steering was sluggish and difficult. Yesterday was moving some big stumps and the steering did not respond well when the front forks were loaded. After dropping the load, steering was ok but sluggish. Didn't see any leaks around the two steering cylinders. How do you know if it is the steering cylinder(s) or steering pump?
Issue 2: PTO switch recently has some problem where, after the tractor gets warm from use, turning off the PTO switch for a short time, then try to turn it back 'on', it doesn't want to engage the hydraulic motor on the mower deck. With the engine idling, I have to flip the PTO switch off and 'on' about 8-10 times (waiting 5-10 seconds between each try) before it engages. Never had this issue before. Could it be something else besides the PTO switch, such as the mower motor?
Issue 3: Float not working. Have had this issues for many years, sometimes float works, sometime not. Seemed that once hyd oil got hot, it would work ok. However, this season I cannot get it to stay engaged at all. I bought a repair kit from PT years ago but never installed because float would usually work after running a while. It is easy job to rebuild, any special tools needed?
Issue 4: Battery replacement. Guess I was lucky in that the original PT battery lasted about 12 years. Couldn't find a replacement battery locally that was same size/amperage, so went with a smaller 'riding lawnmower' battery. If anyone has an older PT425, you know the issue with replacing the battery, you have to remove the exhaust manifold to get battery out. Don't have to do this with the smaller lawnmower battery, but the amperage is on the low side and takes more cranks to get the engine started. I think later PT425s have a different exhaust manifold so removal is not required?
Issue 5: Hydraulic Oil leak: This season I noticed my first hydraulic oil leak. Not sure where it is occurring so I put a pan under the center pivot point. After about a week, there was maybe a tablespoon of (clean) oil in the pan. I think the only hydraulics in that area are the hoses from front to back half of tractor?
FYI: I had issue a few years back with front forks not lifting when loaded. Unloaded was ok but slow. I assumed the cylinders needed rebuilding and took them to local hydraulic shop. After a couple weeks, the shop called back and said they were having problem getting end caps off. I called Terry at PT and got a price quote for new cylinders. Long story short, the cost (2021) of new cylinders was a little more than cost of rebuilding cylinders plus I had to drive about 20 miles (each way) to get to the hydraulic shop. Would have been faster to order new cylinders, delivered directly to my door, and only slightly more expensive than rebuilding.
Bleeding the hydraulics: I know bleeding the systems is recommended after changing the hydraulic oil filter, but is it also good practice/required if changing various cylinders? I didn't bleed the system after changing the front fork lifting cylinders a few years ago, but they seemed to work fine.
Issue 1: There is a recent post about steering issues. My PT425 (circa 2002) started having similar issues last time mowing. Tractor was drifting to the left and steering was sluggish and difficult. Yesterday was moving some big stumps and the steering did not respond well when the front forks were loaded. After dropping the load, steering was ok but sluggish. Didn't see any leaks around the two steering cylinders. How do you know if it is the steering cylinder(s) or steering pump?
Issue 2: PTO switch recently has some problem where, after the tractor gets warm from use, turning off the PTO switch for a short time, then try to turn it back 'on', it doesn't want to engage the hydraulic motor on the mower deck. With the engine idling, I have to flip the PTO switch off and 'on' about 8-10 times (waiting 5-10 seconds between each try) before it engages. Never had this issue before. Could it be something else besides the PTO switch, such as the mower motor?
Issue 3: Float not working. Have had this issues for many years, sometimes float works, sometime not. Seemed that once hyd oil got hot, it would work ok. However, this season I cannot get it to stay engaged at all. I bought a repair kit from PT years ago but never installed because float would usually work after running a while. It is easy job to rebuild, any special tools needed?
Issue 4: Battery replacement. Guess I was lucky in that the original PT battery lasted about 12 years. Couldn't find a replacement battery locally that was same size/amperage, so went with a smaller 'riding lawnmower' battery. If anyone has an older PT425, you know the issue with replacing the battery, you have to remove the exhaust manifold to get battery out. Don't have to do this with the smaller lawnmower battery, but the amperage is on the low side and takes more cranks to get the engine started. I think later PT425s have a different exhaust manifold so removal is not required?
Issue 5: Hydraulic Oil leak: This season I noticed my first hydraulic oil leak. Not sure where it is occurring so I put a pan under the center pivot point. After about a week, there was maybe a tablespoon of (clean) oil in the pan. I think the only hydraulics in that area are the hoses from front to back half of tractor?
FYI: I had issue a few years back with front forks not lifting when loaded. Unloaded was ok but slow. I assumed the cylinders needed rebuilding and took them to local hydraulic shop. After a couple weeks, the shop called back and said they were having problem getting end caps off. I called Terry at PT and got a price quote for new cylinders. Long story short, the cost (2021) of new cylinders was a little more than cost of rebuilding cylinders plus I had to drive about 20 miles (each way) to get to the hydraulic shop. Would have been faster to order new cylinders, delivered directly to my door, and only slightly more expensive than rebuilding.
Bleeding the hydraulics: I know bleeding the systems is recommended after changing the hydraulic oil filter, but is it also good practice/required if changing various cylinders? I didn't bleed the system after changing the front fork lifting cylinders a few years ago, but they seemed to work fine.
