PTO advice

[Coyote machine]

My DK-40 se/HST Kioti doesn't have a clutch. Just a forward and reverse pedal; separate one for each direction, and two brake pedals, which are almost always locked together with a metal bar. I cannot shift without coming to a complete stop, whereas some others, Kubota, I believe, can shift on the fly.

 

[Singlemalt]

I'd like to hear more. My 3-pt hitch will lift my blower far enough that I can grossly exceed 15 degrees at the u-joints. There's no way I would run it in the fully-lifted position.

I do leave the PTO engaged when pulling forward; I lift just an inch or 2.

I doubt I can simply extend the chute crank - it would be too long without additional support and a bearing. I will look at electric or hydraulic operators for the chute.

As I understand it, adjustments for an implement attached to the rear of a tractor should be done on a level surface. Attaching the lower links and adjusting for sway and level with the check chain and lift rod turn buckle is fairly straight forward. The top link adds the twist.
There are three holes on the tractor for the top link. Which one do you choose? The owners manual simply states "attach the top link to the desired hole". I pick the hole that keeps the top link as parallel to the level surface as possible when attached to the implement. (Was told or read this years ago). Without attaching the PTO raise the implement. The bottom of the implement, from the side, should rise parallel to the level ground surface. The point where the PTO shaft connects to the implement should also be parallel to the level surface. I think it should be this way all the way up and if not then your top link is not correctly adjusted. To long (implement front starts to angle down)or to short (implement front starts to angle up). Use a level if you have to and adjust the top link so that the implement from the side raises and lowers parallel to the level surface. This is where I understand the 15 degrees to be critical.
Now attach the PTO shaft. Raise the implement slowly and watch as the shaft telescopes in. The closest point would be where the PTO shaft is parallel with the ground. The U-joint pivot points should move within their range. As the implement rises the PTO shaft telescopes out. If sized properly the PTO drive shaft should not contact the PTO shaft from the tractor at the closest point and it should not come apart at the farthest point. Engage the PTO and there should be no unusual noises either raising or lowering the implement. The implement remains parallel to the level surface the tractor sits on. Make sure the top link is tight as tractor vibration will cause it to shorten or lengthen.
It doesn't hurt to disengage your PTO to adjust your blower shoot but you shouldn't have to. If the blower is made for your tractor it shouldn't be necessary to extend the handle.
This is easier to see in the minds eye than it is to explain so I hope I haven't muddied the waters. Any help clarifying any of this would be appreciated.

 

[RoyJackson]

There are three holes on the tractor for the top link. Which one do you choose? The owners manual simply states "attach the top link to the desired hole". I pick the hole that keeps the top link as parallel to the level surface as possible when attached to the implement. (Was told or read this years ago).

This is what the Deere manual (3x20 series tractors...and my old Deere 4400 too) states:
Positioning Center Link

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MX26262

For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake.

For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade.

For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.

I'm very surprised your Kioti manual doesn't go into more detail.​

 

[Singlemalt]

I'm disappointed in the information provided by most user manuals. They offer enough to cover their butts but not get said butt in a crack.
I'm also amazed at how many implements from 3 foot to 6 foot are all compatible with the same tractor.

Does your manual say anything about adjustments to the top link in relation to the drive line?

Keeping the implement parallel to the ground as it raises and lowers seems important to the overall function of the moving parts regardless of which hole is selected.

 

[RoyJackson]

Does your manual say anything about adjustments to the top link in relation to the drive line?

I couldn't find anything about keeping the upper link in any particular relationship to the drive shaft. Other then what I posted previously, the manual just describes how the upper link is used for fore-aft leveling of an implement.
Here's a link to the manual, if you'd like to look:
omlvu23778_i0=

 

[rimshot]

I couldn't find anything about keeping the upper link in any particular relationship to the drive shaft. Other then what I posted previously, the manual just describes how the upper link is used for fore-aft leveling of an implement.
Here's a link to the manual, if you'd like to look:
omlvu23778_i0=

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You guys got me going to the manual. I researched my snowblower manual not the Kioti manual. My blower is a Martin/meteor 60" rear. According to Martin they want to see that both angles (top link and drive shaft) are at a minimum and the larger the angle the shorter the life of the life of the PTO (they must be referring to Universal joint alone)

They use a 60 H.P. tractor and rear blower as an example and suggest parking the unit on a level surface like a garage floor and include this metric,

A=PTO height at tractor 18 1/2" (figures represent my unit)
B= PTO height at blower -14 1/2"
C= A - B 4"
L=cross center length of shaft with blower at working position (center of U.J. to center of U.J) 24"


Subtract B from A (A-B=C) in my case that figure was 18 1/2 - 14 1/2 = 4
Divide L by C 24/4 =6

That figure of 6" then goes to the table supplied by Martin and now becomes the F Factor. The below list represents Martins table and refers to angle of drive shaft as determined by above numbers

F Factor Angle degrees 1 st number below is F factor

6 10
3.75 15
2.75 20
2.15 25
1.75 30

The lower the degree column the better and as you can see my particular tractor used as an example reveals the blower drive is at 10*. So far as relationship of top link to drive shaft they claim the top link in working position (snowblower)should be as level as possible and the drive shaft should be as close to parallel with top link as you can get. This is about the best I can determine and it looks like my drive shaft slopes a bit downward. It's boound to with that 10 degree angle. Basically the book leaves me hanging at that point.

Sorry about these charts they never post the same way you type them.

YMMV

rim

 

[tractchores]

Kubota's have no clutch when equipped with HST.

rimshot

I've got a kubota with HST and it has a clutch? Haven't seen one without a clutch actually. It's used for PTO, switching HST ranges and 4wd / 2wd.

 

[rimshot]

I've got a kubota with HST and it has a clutch? Haven't seen one without a clutch actually. It's used for PTO, switching HST ranges and 4wd / 2wd.

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I'll be darned. I have a friend that just purchased a fairly new Kubota model 3030 or perhaps it was B3030. He tells me it is a 27 h.p. model with a front blower and I drove it. I did not see a clutch pedal and asked him about the clutch and he says it does not have one. It was an HST.

rimshot

 

[Gittyup]

Doesn't no clutch on HST simply mean electrically actuated PTO via a switch? And because sometimes you want to be engaging disengaging the PTO a lot, I prefer the clutch over an electric solenoid. Constant on/off would seem to be pretty hard on a solenoid, and is hand operated making it hard to steer, raise/lower implement, actuate solenoid all at once.

 

[Kioti Tom]

This is what the Deere manual (3x20 series tractors...and my old Deere 4400 too) states:
Positioning Center Link

​

MX26262

For light and medium draft loads: Install center link (A) in bottom hole (B) of mounting bracket. Example of light and medium draft load implements would include a landscape rake.

For medium and heavy draft loads: Install center link in middle hole (C) of mounting bracket. Example of medium and heavy draft load implements would include a tiller or box blade.

For very heavy draft loads: Install center link in top hole (D) of mounting bracket. Example of very heavy draft load implements would include a plow or ripper.

I'm very surprised your Kioti manual doesn't go into more detail.​

If you are coming from using a Ford like the N series etc. It is just the opposite. Make sure of your hook ups...Yes, I agree, The manual needs to
be clearer on the hook up for the top link.