mitchell574
Member
Does anyone here own a IH574. I have one with a problem with the PTO. Suspect a pto clutch, but i plan to change the filter this weekend to see if that helps. Any info would be helpful.
PTO on IH 574
- Thread starter mitchell574
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Charolais
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- south/central Va.
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- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
I ran a 574 IH for 12 years but never had any problem with the pto clutch. What kind of problem are you having?
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mitchell574
Member
Ibought this tractor as a project.It was wrecked in three pieces. Could not pass on the price. It is back together now and good running tractor. I dont know anything about the tractor before the wreck. PTO may have out of service prior to purchuse. I was going to pick peanuts with this tractor but PTO would not work. PTO will not turn under load. Figured it was just to much. Hooked to a 3pt spreader to spread rye grass would not spread the seed with the hooper full.Removed enough seed to get finished. Change the HYD filter today if i have time to see if that helps. I still have steering,lift, and hyd but time for filter change
Charolais
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- south/central Va.
- Tractor
- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
The one I had was well used when I got it. Had the filter to plug soon and it didn't have enough supply on the remotes to work the wood splitter but steering and 3 pt. still worked OK. Changed the filter and hyd. oil and was OK from then on. I never tried the PTO with the filter stopped up. I'm not positive but I think the pto clutches are wet. I think there are 5 disc. Not likely but you may have a linkage problem and causing it to slip. Hope the filter change does the trick for you. If not I guess you'll have to pull the cap off and find the problem. When you get it right you'll have a great tractor. The 574 was one of the best I've owned.
geneP
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- Case-International 385, Kubota L5450 w/LA1150A loader
I have a factory repair manual for the Case-IH 385 thru 885 series tractors. From my observations they are practically the same as the 74/84 series tractors. There are 5 frictions discs and 8 drive discs in the clutch pack. There is also a piston in the pack that compresses the clutch discs and has an inner and outer seal on it. A quick browse through the proceedure looks relatively simple to remove/repair/reinstall it. The 1000 rpm pto shaft has to be removed and the pack drops out the bottom.
Before I bought my 385 I looked far and wide for a good 574 at at reasonable price.
Before I bought my 385 I looked far and wide for a good 574 at at reasonable price.
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mitchell574
Member
Filter change did the trick. Thank You all for replies. I grew up on fords this is my first IH. Parts are a little hard to find and costly. I am pleased so far.
Charolais
Platinum Member
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- south/central Va.
- Tractor
- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
I bet you are grinning now!!! I didn't know the pto used a cylinder but after I think about it ,it makes sense now. What I found after asking questions about the hyd. system, the filter will get plugged if the brakes (wet) are used heavily. Particles from the wet disc will fill plug the filter. I never had the problem but a guy I know used his for logging. He had to change filters 2-3 times per year. He knew it was filter change time when the fel slowed down. There also use to be a kit that would double the filter size. I looked at it but never bought it. I just used mine for haying mostly.
I don't know of another tractor in that wheel base size with the power of the 574. It's short but heavy enough to have great traction and 52 rated hp is just right for it. If the engine is working right most will put out 57hp on a dyno. I wish they were still made. I'd sure buy a new 574 tomorrow and hang a loader on it. I could stack round bales with it faster than anything I've ever used.
If you ever run into parts problems give me a holler. There's a salvage yard in my area that helped me many times. There were lots of the 574's in this area and were used as two row for tobacco crops.
I don't know of another tractor in that wheel base size with the power of the 574. It's short but heavy enough to have great traction and 52 rated hp is just right for it. If the engine is working right most will put out 57hp on a dyno. I wish they were still made. I'd sure buy a new 574 tomorrow and hang a loader on it. I could stack round bales with it faster than anything I've ever used.
If you ever run into parts problems give me a holler. There's a salvage yard in my area that helped me many times. There were lots of the 574's in this area and were used as two row for tobacco crops.
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mitchell574
Member
Not quite sure exactly but it works good now. I am constantly surprized at the good info found on TBN. I am constantly adding things: strob, canopy, retrofit loader, foot throttle, radio cup holder & mirror. I am running out of ideas.
hobbyfarm
Veteran Member
We had a 574 and it had nothing but trouble with the PTO. Purchased new, within 9 months, it had been to the dealer's shop about 12 times to repair the PTO. (I doubt if yours is just the filter) /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Then, got rid of it and got a 656 Hydro and it never had PTO problems again.
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mitchell574
Member
You may be right but its working good now. I forgot to add that the bypass was clogged with a fiber looking mess. Kinda like lint from the clothes dryer.
ptrotter
Member
I just bought an old 574 Gas and have a rather stupid question. Where is the hydraulic filter? This is my first tractor and I am just beginning to learn about it. Everything seems to work reasonably well and I am trying to learn to use it and maintain it. I'm reading everything I can to learn.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Charolais
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- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
I'm going to assume the filter on the gas model is in the same place as the diesel. If so it's under the foot rest/floor board on the clutch pedal side just in front of the rear axle. Now it's been a while since I traded mine in so it could be on the other side. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif But look for a round cylinder looking cover about 3"-4" dia.,3"-4" long and it'll have a hex bolt head sitting right in the center of it. I think it's a little dome shaped on top too.
You have to remove the bolt to take it off. Have a new filter ready when you do this and use the new gaskets when you put it back on. I think there's one gasket for the metal bowl and one or two for the bolt. This information is worth every cent you paid for it too. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I may be off a little on the filter location but that should be close enough for you to find it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
You have to remove the bolt to take it off. Have a new filter ready when you do this and use the new gaskets when you put it back on. I think there's one gasket for the metal bowl and one or two for the bolt. This information is worth every cent you paid for it too. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I may be off a little on the filter location but that should be close enough for you to find it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
ptrotter
Member
Thanks very much. I found it just as you thought. I have all the manuals for the tractor which all show an exploded view of the filter, but none show it in place. I guess they assume some basic knowledge
I have a new filter coming in a couple of days and I'll replace it.
Paul
I have a new filter coming in a couple of days and I'll replace it.Paul
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mitchell574
Member
Well the joy is over. Ran it today for a while and it started again. Like the oil get hot and it goes crazy. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
MMM
Platinum Member
Fiber mess is could be clutch or park brake. But if it's good when cold, the disc is still functioning and regulator, relief, bad piston seal or number of other things could be wrong. Assuming rest of hyd system is ok, check your pressure to clutch pack. There's a test port at regulayor plate at bottom of trans. I don't have book with me offshore, but seems it should be 420psi or so. If you don't have serv man, they're about 20 bucks on EBay(cheap IT manual, but good enough for most fixes).
OP
mitchell574
Member
Sat I plan to drain oil, flush rear housing if I can. Removal of the filter also to see if it clogged again. Brakes on this tractor are poor so it may be the liners. I have a shop manuel but not a gauge. Trip to the parts house in the future.
Charolais
Platinum Member
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- Deutz Fahr Agrofarm 100, Stoll loader, bucket, forks & root grapple
Thought I'd jump back in here one more time. You may already know this but in case you don't, there's two drain plugs for the hydraulics and I think there's 3. Been a while since I had the 574 so I could be wrong on 3 drain plugs but in the back of my old mind I think there's 3.
On the brakes, you may already know about this too. But I'll mention it anyway. You can bleed the brakes. Look under the rock shafts/both sides. There's a bleed off valve on each side. You'll need someone to help you with bleeding. And have the engine running when you bleed the brakes too. It's just like any other bleeding system for brakes except they are a little larger than what's on a car or truck.
Next the brakes have a system almost like a master cylinder. It's located (if I remember right) under the battery just behind the engine. On that unit there's a flexible line. Inside that line there's a little stone filter. If that stone filter is still in the line you can try and find a new one. After I got the hyd. system cleaned out on mine I took the stone filter out and never put one back in. It doesn't need it if you keep the system clean. That means change the filter at least once a year and more if you put over 200 hrs. per year. My brakes never worked proper until I removed that stone filter.
That master cylinder unit, I don't think you can get that parts anymore. I was told that by another guy I know. He had some machine shop make some replacement parts for his. So if you have to take that unit apart be very careful. It's a weird little set up. Both or either brake pedal operates this unit and if I remember right it's a split unit. Meaning left side for left brake and right side for right brake but it's still one unit.
As soon as I posted this I thought of something else. If you're going to flush the system see if you can find some Sea Foam for that job. You can get the hyd. oil warmed up/ add the sea foam and run it long enough to get it mixed all through the system. Then drain. Sea foam has a product for transmissions that will work in the hydraulic oil. If there's moisture in the system it will help get the water out.
On the brakes, you may already know about this too. But I'll mention it anyway. You can bleed the brakes. Look under the rock shafts/both sides. There's a bleed off valve on each side. You'll need someone to help you with bleeding. And have the engine running when you bleed the brakes too. It's just like any other bleeding system for brakes except they are a little larger than what's on a car or truck.
Next the brakes have a system almost like a master cylinder. It's located (if I remember right) under the battery just behind the engine. On that unit there's a flexible line. Inside that line there's a little stone filter. If that stone filter is still in the line you can try and find a new one. After I got the hyd. system cleaned out on mine I took the stone filter out and never put one back in. It doesn't need it if you keep the system clean. That means change the filter at least once a year and more if you put over 200 hrs. per year. My brakes never worked proper until I removed that stone filter.
That master cylinder unit, I don't think you can get that parts anymore. I was told that by another guy I know. He had some machine shop make some replacement parts for his. So if you have to take that unit apart be very careful. It's a weird little set up. Both or either brake pedal operates this unit and if I remember right it's a split unit. Meaning left side for left brake and right side for right brake but it's still one unit.
As soon as I posted this I thought of something else. If you're going to flush the system see if you can find some Sea Foam for that job. You can get the hyd. oil warmed up/ add the sea foam and run it long enough to get it mixed all through the system. Then drain. Sea foam has a product for transmissions that will work in the hydraulic oil. If there's moisture in the system it will help get the water out.
