PTO Shaft rusted on...Advice ?

[brin]

I have an older bush hog I would like to rebuild but first I have to figure out how to remove the PTO shaft that is stuck on the bush hog..It is rusted solid and I have been spraying WD - 40 and other sprays on it but it won't budge...Any tips ? Thanks in advance..

 

[blueriver]

Heat ... just be carefull not to get the gearbox to hot.

 

[luckyme2010]

if the pto shaft is stuck onto the shaft thats coming out of the gearbox on the hog what i did once was used a torch and a hammer i eventually got it off bad thing about that is if you dont use this technique right you can damage more than you fix the metal will become brittle and could snap or warp but thats what worked for me another way ive seen work is a grinder and big pair of channellocks grind off the shaft as close as possible to the shaft from the hog use the big channels to snap it off i know these work maybe somebody knows a better way good luck

 

[beenthere]

WD-40 isn't a very good penetrant. Kroil is much better, and I've found a more recent one that is twice as good as Kroil. It is RustReaper. Isn't a rust cleaner, but is a very good penetrant.

I found out about it through the ForestryForum.com
I'm not affiliated with this company, but have used the product for some very amazing results.
Rust Reaper the Multi-Purpose Lubricant

 

[J_J]

Cleaner/penetrate Equal parts of

1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
#

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1
#

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits

1 part Acetone

 

[leonz]

A salamander kerosene heater a foot away from the yoke will heat it up quickly and allow it to come loose with little effort.

 

[kebo]

Also, try tapping on the old PTO shaft with a 5lb hammer, rotate it a few degree's, and then tap on it some more till you've gone all the way around. The impact may be enough to help break it free, in addition to a good soaking with a good penetrant and some heat applied to it.

If the above doesn't work after several attempts, you can always use a grinder to get down close to the splines (if it has them) and then carefully chisel your way in and expose the splines. Once you can see the shaft, liberally apply more penetrant and allow tiime to soak. Hopefully it won't come to this last ditch effort.

 

[LD1]

If you are rebuilding it anyway, toasting the seal in the gearbox should be no big deal to replace (If that is what you plan on rebuilding). So I'd torch away. Get that thing hot and tap with a hammer.


Another suggestion I would give would be to try an air hammer on it. Something about the really fast blows creates a high frequency vibration and can walk it right off.

A final suggestion I might make would be to disassemble the u-joint and put a puller on it.

Or any combination of the above that work.

 

[Qapla]

Here is what we did when ours was rusted on ...

After spraying penetrating oil and WD-40 on the shaft from every conceivable direction, we positioned the back of the mower near a rather sturdy oak tree and chained it to the tree by the gearbox.

We had another sturdy oak near enough the front of the mower that we could chain a come-along to that tree. We fastened the come-along to the yoke of the PTO shaft at the mower. (the come-along was NOT from HF)

We tightened the come-along as tight as we could get it and left it that way. On the first day, we cranked the handle a click or two every 4 hours or so. Then, we cranked it a click (usually that was all it would do) when we thought about it for the next couple of days.

On the third or fourth day, it popped right off :thumbsup:

We replaced the PTO shaft, the mower was fine.

 

[DemcoEd]

mix up a batch of Hagen's Brew. A 50/50 mix of ATF and mineral spirits. Better than any store bought penitrating fluid you can buy. Mix it up and pour it on. Give it a couple of doses and let it set a day or two. A couple good raps with a hammer and it will come off easily.