Hey Guys, thanks!
My design is now to be adapted from PoohBear's link (maybe more reach) and I can derive the required speed (thanks RonMar) with a pully arangement easily.
I did , a few years ago, attach steel cable to my Huskvarna weed wacker and stopped fast when I realized that I was hurling bits of cable hither and yonder.
I now use the square nylon (biggest available) lengths in the gripper head with excellent durability.
At first I would fill my pocket with precut lengths expecting to use up a good handfull per drive side, but no they last quite long. In fact I believe I merely used 4 or 5 lengths.
My plan will now be to make a 3 point mount for the gear box and a side arm as per PoohBear's link (essentually an offset channel box) with a quill arrangement to mount the holder head.
In fact I might even purchase the conversion adaptor as sold for my Husky and attach it to the quill. (the quill being a shaft and 2 bearings, unless I simply buy one)
It can't work any worse than my big husky weed wacker does, only I can sit and drive rather than walking! (Getting old--er and lazier)
Also I can raise or lower at will with the 3 point.
Also for ditch management the offset arrangement is COOL!
But the info I needed was RPM's, so thanks guys!
Oh, yes I'll post pic's, probably as a finished project with stages.
Heck I could also adapt a 16" saw blade for bigger stuff! Why not? I do that now on my Husky wacker. (12" blade)
Using an offset belt drive I like as I feel that this is somewhat a safety feature as with 'just right' tension (OK, now I need to have a tensioner=easy enough) I can introduce controlled slippage to prevent sudden stoppage in the event I hit a stray piece of rebar for example.
Sure, I'll have safety shields etc as I know what it is like to have pebbles etc hitting the legs (even dry twigs hurt).
I found that something like HD inner tube rubber or carpet does an excellent job in absorbing/deflecting flying bits and pieces.