Pucker Factor Rating?

[chrisjbell]

Good advice so far - just thought I'd throw in my $0.02 worth, since that looks an awful lot like my property (no pond at the bottom yet, but similar terrain). I mow mine with a brush hog on a Kubota B7300. There are areas that I will only attempt while backing up the hill in 4WD that are at least 30 degrees (I have slope meters on my tractors). But I mow most of mine up and down without any trouble.

The area around your pond looks like it would be "Pucker Factor 10" with just about any tractor, I'd think. But for that, use a walk behind mower or even a line trimmer (while not much fun, would be great exersize /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif). For most of it, though, a CUT looks to me like it should work, going up and down (rather than sideways). I'd suggest loaded tires / weights, and I find that removing the FEL makes my tractor feel more stable on slopes.

Nice piece of property, too. Looks like you'll have fun with it.

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue"> I’m thinking I need something bigger than the Steiner/VENTRAC options for these other purposes and can’t afford to buy two tractors. </font>

Ron,

Then something like that shown in the attachment obviously would not work for you, as it appears to be a dedicated mowing machine...but it is an interesting concept. I have no idea who makes it. Just happened to notice this picture on my wife's computer the other day. I think I must have put it there... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

The thing that would worry me most about your situation is the pond being where it is, and the likelyhood that, under the water, the pond side continues down for some distance at the same slope. I suppose if things went drastically wrong you might be able to get the seat belt loose as the tractor went under the water...be very careful there. Once you experience a uncontrolled slide on damp ground you learn new respect for slopes! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Personally I would feel much safer on those slopes if the land just went down and ended in a small creek. If things went wrong I would know I could still breathe when the tractor stopped its descent...

For some reason this post sounds so negative! Don't mean it to...it is just that a feeling of concern is showing through I guess... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[BigRon]

Henro (Bill),

Having worked in R&D for 25+ years, I’ve learned that where there are concerns, there are usually problems, and where there are problems, there are usually opportunities, so I don’t see your post as negative but positive as it helps confirm my suspicions. Rather be safe than sorry.

My brother sent me the following link which is probably where you found the two wheel slope cutter.

www.deweze.com

Thanks,
Ron

 

[sweettractors]

We have plenty of those hills on our farms in Ky--Some of the worst, we put in White pine seedlings and stay away from them with the tractor and implements--Just not worth taking the chance--Ken Sweet
Sweet Farm Equipment LLC *1 Hour South of Louisville*

 

[KubotaSteve]

Ron:
Those hills look like a job for the tractor the state road uses to cut the grass and trees on the side of the road. They have this mower on an arm on one side of the tractor and on the other side of the tractor is a huge ballast box. They mow all types of hills here in WV with that thing. They can even raise it in the air to cut tree limbs back from the power lines. It is very stable and would keep the tractor wheels away from the pond area as the arm reaches out about 6 feet or so. I'm not sure if they make such a system for a CUT or not as this is a larger tractor.

 

[BigRon]

I think I’ve finally focused in on which tractor to buy for cutting my hills and am interested in any feedback (either plus or minus) concerning my selection. I’m currently looking at a either a used JD 4600, Pwr-Rev, Koyker FEL, 1300 Hrs, a generic 6’ brush cutter, and weighted R1’s or a new JD4510, Pwr-Rev, FEL460, weighted R1’s and a LX6.

I’ve looked at the other brands and it appears that the big advantage (at least to me) of selecting the John Deere is the ability to make the tracks wide. Seems the Deere’s wheel width can be made much wider than the competition’s by just reversing the rims. Wheel extensions can also be added (http://www.unverferth.com/) which could take the wheels out even further if needed. The other brands (New Holland, Kubota & Branson) can’t provide the same widths for stability.

Thanks,
Ron

 

[jinman]

The class III New Hollands can be extended out for an outside width in the rear of 84.5" with R4s. Are the Deeres wider than that? I think your choice of the Deere is fine. I'm just curious what their maximum width is. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[BigRon]

JimI,

I'm not sure of the exact width since it depends on R1's vs. R4's but I do remember that the JD 4500/4600 was some where around 74" with the wheels kicked out. The Kubota and Branson’s had a limit of around 64". When I spoke with a sales person from Unverferth, they said they could provide wheel extensions up to around 20 inches plus for the JD but that no extensions were available for the Kubota L3830. I'm currently leaning toward the JD since, if it feels a bit unstable on the hills, I could at least get the wheel extensions and kick the wheels out even further. I like having this option; even if I find out I don’t need them.

I’m not familiar with the class III New Holland’s. I did drive the TC40D, which I think has now changed to the TC40A. I believe the TC’s were also limited to around 64”. I’ll check out the class III’s as well.

Thanks,
Ron

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I believe the TCs were also limited to around 64". )</font>

The TC40 is a class III tractor. My Owner's Manual clearly says that with R4's and the center wheel dished-in, the outside-to-outside width is 84.5 in. I believe your dimension must be the center-to-center dimension of 67.5 with R4s.

I will tell you that the way the tractors are setup at the dealer is the narrow dimension because they are easier to transport. Some people don't have a trailer over 7" wide.

I'm sure your Deere can be adjusted very wide too. I'm not saying the NH is wider, I'm just trying to make sure anyone reading this thread will not end up with the wrong impression of what the NH widths are. I feel confident you will be happy with the Deere and with additional spacers you will be very wide. I saw a photo here once of a compact Deere with dual rears. that thing was really, really wide.

With any tractor, just be very careful on your hillsides. If you can go up and down rather than across the slope, you will be much safer. I think I could reproduce your photo of your property in several places on my property. I also have lots of slopes and gullys. A 4WD compact with HST transmission will amaze you at what it can do on hillsides. Be prepared to amaze yourself and anyone watching you. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Slamfire]

Interesting extentions at that site, distinct paucity of hole patterns though. Do it yourself makes any tractor wider. I'll try to get some photo's of the spools I made for this application. Won't be tomorrow though, the cardiologist wants me to run up a mountain. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif