Anyone remember the old Ford 100" shredders? We had one when I was a kid and it gave a near finish mower cut on large areas. Who makes one similar? Closest one I have found so far is from Rhino. Anybody know of any others?
Pull type shredder
- Thread starter hudr
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Soundguy
Old Timer
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Just about every rough cut mower I've used will give a 'near' finish cut if you sharpen the blades, and use some care when cutting.... etc.
Soundguy
Soundguy
Yeah, I have a 5ft and a 9ft (both 3pt) Bushhog and w/ sharp blades they cut excellent on flat ground. It seems the pull-type hitch lets the mower follow the contours better and minimize scalping. But I would like something that will handle a little rougher fare than an actual finish mower. I also don't like the way 3pt stuff swings out on corners. I have no trouble backing up w/ a pull type hitch so....
Also, right after I posted the question, I got to looking at the specs from BushHog, Woods and the rest and it seems a pull type hitch is available on most of their models. They just show a picture of the 3pt. Guess I need to put those READING comprehension skills to use.
Also, right after I posted the question, I got to looking at the specs from BushHog, Woods and the rest and it seems a pull type hitch is available on most of their models. They just show a picture of the 3pt. Guess I need to put those READING comprehension skills to use.
MMM
Platinum Member
Sharp blades and top link setup has much to do with it. A level or little high in front gives nicer cut, but is more demanding in hp.
RonMar
Elite Member
How do they handle the PTO driveshaft angles on the pullbehind brushhogs? I wouldn't think you would gain all that much swing due to the limitations of the PTO shaft "U" joints.
My 5' Rankin does a fair job on grass even without sharpening the blades any further. When I get done getting the nasty stuff under control on my land, I plan on adding a set of castering gauge wheels to the front corners and use a chain toplink rigged so the rear wheel barely comes off the ground with 3PH raised fully. This will allow the mower to stay on the wheels as the tractor rolls over the terrain and keep the blade mostly parallel to the ground.
My 5' Rankin does a fair job on grass even without sharpening the blades any further. When I get done getting the nasty stuff under control on my land, I plan on adding a set of castering gauge wheels to the front corners and use a chain toplink rigged so the rear wheel barely comes off the ground with 3PH raised fully. This will allow the mower to stay on the wheels as the tractor rolls over the terrain and keep the blade mostly parallel to the ground.
You just can't turn as sharp w/ the pull type. I have seen them w/ CV joints to handle the extra angle.
As far as top link settings, I have tried it all:
up in front, throws stuff on you
down in front, scalps
level, throws stuff on you and scalps
Even tried a chain for a top link. It just seems if you get the implement away from the tractor a little more (like w/ a drawbar) it "finds is own center" better.
As far as top link settings, I have tried it all:
up in front, throws stuff on you
down in front, scalps
level, throws stuff on you and scalps
Even tried a chain for a top link. It just seems if you get the implement away from the tractor a little more (like w/ a drawbar) it "finds is own center" better.
MMM
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( level, throws stuff on you and scalps )</font>
That's funny /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have both types. I find a pull type follows contours a bit better, but will still scalp sharp irregularities (erosion terraces), as will the 3pt also. The 3pt with floating toplink, set up for no sway, and 1-2" front low does quite well. I think you need a 4pt caster system to avoid scalping altogether, if that's a major concern.
The main advantage would be extra cut width for pull type vs 3pt due to transport weight. I don't care for the pull in tight corners or rough cutting. They don't back well at all over brush and there is a bit more maintainence with 2 extra tires and seasonal replacement of swing bearing. ( I find if I don't replace it once a year, I have a flopping shaft sometime the next year) You might look into semi-mount models that eliminate the swing bearing problem.
That's funny /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have both types. I find a pull type follows contours a bit better, but will still scalp sharp irregularities (erosion terraces), as will the 3pt also. The 3pt with floating toplink, set up for no sway, and 1-2" front low does quite well. I think you need a 4pt caster system to avoid scalping altogether, if that's a major concern.
The main advantage would be extra cut width for pull type vs 3pt due to transport weight. I don't care for the pull in tight corners or rough cutting. They don't back well at all over brush and there is a bit more maintainence with 2 extra tires and seasonal replacement of swing bearing. ( I find if I don't replace it once a year, I have a flopping shaft sometime the next year) You might look into semi-mount models that eliminate the swing bearing problem.