Pump on Dirty Hands Wood Splitter - LEAKING

[charlessenf]

OK, I'm real novice when it comes to these systems Never taken one apart, replaced a hose, etc. I have added Hydraulic Fluid to the HF Tank. I keep the thing indoors unless I am splitting wood. I have had it for four years? Maybe a couple more.

I noticed a wet spot on the basement floor and thought it the clear plastic hose (held on with a hose clamp) I tightened up the hose clamp and spread some absorbent stuff beneath where I park it - it did not appear to be leaking heavily thereafter.

This afternoon, after running a half a cord of wood through the splitter, I noticed the ground beneath the pump was WET enough to notice while standing about the splitter. To my untrained eye it appeared to be emanating from the top of the pump where the black hydraulic hose left the pump and connected to the valve.

Yet this seems less plausible to me seeing as this connection (and hose) has never been tinkered with since I've owned the machine (Purchased New). The machine is noisy and rattling is its normal state of operation - lots of vibration when running full out - but no where near enough to cause a hydraulic fitting to unscrew itself, right?

I've taken some pictures. Note how the top of the pump is really clean on the left side - I suspect this is from the (leaking) hydraulic oil effectively 'cleaning' the surface. Since the thing is leaking onto the leaves, wood chips and soil I'm not sure how much is leaking per (HR/MIN/Etc). I do intend to get a container under there next time out to see how much oil is leaking.

Meanwhile, If you have some experience with small hydraulic pumps / systems and are able to offer me some insights or diagnostic suggestions, I would appreciated same. Thank you for reading.

 

[RandyT]

The first thing to determine is it leaking from the threads into then pump or leaking at the hex/crimp junction and running down onto the pump. The threads leaking from the pump may require removing the hose which may need to be removed at the valve first, clean everything up, put on some pipe dope and then put everything back together. If leaking at the crimp junction then will need new hose.

 

[charlessenf]

Thank you for the feedback.

"leaking at the hex/crimp junction"​

Right, but it appears DRY above the threads. Wet at/around the threads and on the pump body below them.

I'd hate to undo the hose and not be able to get it back in GWO - e.g. screw things up worse.

Is 'leaking at the threads' something that happens after a year or two?

Also, when you suggest removing the hose from the valve body first is there a reason for that sequence I don't understand? Or is it simply that the hose may contain a quantity of hydraulic fluid I'd need to contain/collect?

 

[RandyT]

Thank you for the feedback.

"leaking at the hex/crimp junction"​

Right, but it appears DRY above the threads. Wet at/around the threads and on the pump body below them.

I'd hate to undo the hose and not be able to get it back in GWO - e.g. screw things up worse.

Is 'leaking at the threads' something that happens after a year or two?

Also, when you suggest removing the hose from the valve body first is there a reason for that sequence I don't understand? Or is it simply that the hose may contain a quantity of hydraulic fluid I'd need to contain/collect?

Leaking can happen after the fitting is either not tightened properly at installation, or has a burr on the threads that prevent proper tightening. It looks like there may be some hardened thread sealant around the thread pump junction. Fitting at the pump appears to be NPT thread which relies on thread interference to seal in conjuction with thread sealant to fill in the imperfections in the thread.

I said to remove the fitting at the valve because that is most likely were the swivel fitting is, and you cannot remove or even properly tighten the hose if it won't swivel. Also you may need to try to collect the oil that is in that hose because it will empty if the hose is removed from the pump.

 

[charlessenf]

Leaking can happen

Thanks again. I think I'll monitor the situation a bit, find the swivel connection (never thought of that - good catch) and attempt the repair after splitting enough to fill our cribs before the snow falls!

Thank you for your help.

 

[WranglerX]

Randy T is correct.... I had a leak on piston rod in valve of my 30 something year old wood splitter, thought it was where rod from control handle goes into valve body... Replaced "O" rings.... Still leaking....... After thorough clean up (brake clean) .. IT was discovered the threads were leaking where nipple that held control valve to ram was failing.... Replaced nipple and control rod leak went away..... Clean if up scrupulously and observe....

 

[oldnslo]

Another leak detection method is sprinkle some baby powder around the area the powder shows leak point very quickly.

 

[charlessenf]

Yeah, but I'm too old to make a baby! Maybe the stuff for crotch rot woud do?

 

[charlessenf]

JUST TO CLOSE OUT THIS THREAD . . .
It turns out that the fitting at the pump was loose.
When I first put a wrench to it, that was soooo obvious!

It turned so easily - it was loose!

But, the hose turned along with it.

Luckily, the wife was watching and said something to the effect of "Stop! the hose is twisting into a knot!"

I loosened it back up and the hose un-contorted.

I examined the 'swivel fitting' at the other end of the hose (at the valve body) and figured out that, if I held that fitting so it's threads would not turn, I could turn the (very snug) swiveling part in concert with the turns needed to make at the other (pump) end of the hose to essentially rotate the hose as I tightened the fitting at the pump.

Fortunately, I have three hands.

Unfortunately, I didn't record the procedure so you'll need to use your imagination.

Righty Tighty Leak All Gone!