Purchased 1984 Ford 555A TLB

[ovrszd]

Thanks for all the comments guys.

Truthfully, I'll put more hours on it playing than working. Stand by for "project" pictures this Summer.

Larry, that was my concern about my neighbor's 3pt hoe. Handy little attachment. But puts a lot of stress on the tractor.

 

[ovrszd]

What’s your rental rate for that fine looking machine?

You can borrow it anytime you want, you just gotta do the haul!!!!

 

[RickB]

Looks good. There’s guys out there paying a lot of bills with work done with 555’s and 655A’s.

 

[ovrszd]

Looks good. There’s guys out there paying a lot of bills with work done with 555’s and 655A’s.

Thanks Rick.

 

[sixdogs]

Looking forward to the spring tryouts on this and updating of the thread. Are you going to do any re-welds of the repairs already made? What's on the bucket list of potential repairs for this?

 

[ovrszd]

I apologize for not logging my progress. I'll try to update.

The FEL lift cylinder on the right side was leaking pretty bad. So I installed a seal kit. Had to remove the cylinder which wasn't a big deal at all. The rod gland is the wire type. Turn the gland counter clockwise and it pushes the wire out, then comes apart. Was a very easy repair. Sorry, no pics.....

The cylinder on the left side of the 4n1 bucket was also leaking. Installed a seal kit in it as well. The gland is a screw/threaded type. That was a bit of a challenge getting it broke loose. Good vise and BIG pipe wrench with cheater. The kit install was very easy. Sorry, no pics.....

The front axle king pins were total junk. That was a nightmare. I started with the left side. Couldn't budge the pin. Had to use the cutting torch to remove the bearing the tractor rests on. That gave me enough clearance to get the torch in there and cut the pin off above and below the axle. This allowed me to get the knuckle out of the way. Then I had to heat the axle with a rose bud tip until I could finally drive the pin out.......

Went to the right side expecting the same thing. Thought maybe I should try driving the pin out. It moved!!!!! So, wife holding a large punch by a long handle I welded to it, me swinging a long handled shop mall as hard as I could, finally got it drove out.......

Pressed the new bushings into the knuckles. Then took the knuckles and pins to a machine shop and had them honed to fit. All went back together very well.

I hated having to heat the axle but couldn't think of any other way to get that first pin out. Sorry didn't get any pics with it torn apart. Here's and assembled view of the one I heated.

 

[sixdogs]

Excellent.

May I suggest to anyone reading this to search for the repair threads on your Ford 3910 FWA tractor. Excellent photos, great workmanship and attention to detail involving axle center bearings and as well as splitting the tractor. I mean, I know everything-- :laughing: --- butd learned plenty from those threads. Just my two cents.

 

[ovrszd]

The torque convertor dump valve replacement was very easy. It's a small electronically controlled hydraulic valve that's used to dump torque convertor pressure so the machine will sit still while the shuttle is in forward/reverse with rpms applied. Main use would be for using the front bucket such as lifting to dump into a truck or on a pile. It's controlled by a push button on the FEL control lever or by a push button in the floor near the brake pedals. In this particular case the valve, push button on the loader lever and push button on the floor all were junk....

The valve got destroyed by straddling something large enough to hit the valve. Very poor design and location of the valve. It's mounted on the side of the trans with the solenoid pointing downward. Has a very cheesy strap guard protecting the solenoid. Nothing to keep the wire from getting yanked off. In this case it got hit hard enough to destroy the solenoid and bend the valve stem making it inoperable.

My wife still struggles understanding how something that fits in your hand can cost $580. I told her luxury doesn't come cheap.

I had a FEL joystick handle with two electric switches left over from a project on my Kubota. So I modified the FEL lever and added the Kubota handle. I eliminated the floorboard heel switch that was near the brake pedals. Was going to have to try to find an aftermarket replacement switch. Didn't think I needed that function. Since I wasn't accustomed to using it I'm hoping I won't miss it.

Here's a pic of the old valve and my "custom" handle.

 

[ovrszd]

The floor mat in the cab was total junk. I had an old DeeZee pickup bed mat laying around so cut out a new mat. That was a chore. Was going to run without a mat. But it's been cold outside so I had time.... While I was in there I disassembled the seat. The swivel latch wasn't working and you could barely slide it fore/aft. Cleaned and lubed it all up. Everything works great now. It's the "optional" Bostrom Seat. I can buy a replacement but they are over $300. I'll keep my eyes open for a cheaper replacement for the cushions. They actually sit very well surprisingly.

 

[ovrszd]

The entrance door and right side opening window use a telescoping support that can be locked at any length to hold them in place. Both were missing. Well, actually one of them was in pieces in the toolbox. Replacements are $110.

So I substituted. I used a chain on the entrance door cut to the length I wanted the door to travel to. Slipped a rubber hose over the chain so it wouldn't be banging on the window during use.

On the right side window I built a folding brace that "snaps" in place when the window is open and will hold it there. A simple pull of the handle causes it to fold and can be used to pull the window shut. The latch mechanism is separate and works fine.

Pretty crude but effective for now.