Buying Advice Purchasing a 3320...help with options please

[North585]

Spring is around the corner (today will be the first time above 0/32f in 3 weeks!) so it is time to get ordering a 3320. Reason for the 3320 vs my 2720 is loader capacity. Love the 2720 (60 hours) and is a great tag team with the X585 (will be replacing it with a 748 in the same purchase) however I have not been able to do a number of jobs becuase of the capacity issue.

My plan is to price out the 3320/748 at two local dealers, determine the trade in value with each of them, figure out what I can sell each of the tractors for privately (if needed) and if everything seems fair, buy locally. If selling privately seems okay but the local dealers will not move on their price too much, I will buy in Montana. The USD/CAD configuration price difference is just over $6,000 so driving 8 hours each way to save $6,000 makes sense-especially when the two currencies are at par. Only issue is warranty. By saving $6,000, I can afford to travel there a few times and still be ahead if the warranty issue is large enough to justify the drive.

My plan on the 3320 is to get the following. Please let me know if I've missed anything I should consider, and advice on the hydraulics options. Back hoe yes, potential plow off a qh-hopefully, not to much else i can think of now, but I don't want to get in the same pinch I'm in now where I could have...but I didn't.
Hydro
375 BH (correct model?)
vertical exhaust
300CX
Top n Tilt
P Beyond
3rd function SVC (needed?)
4/5th SVC (needed?)
Electric Diverter (needed?)

Thanks as always for the great advice and help.

 

[beenthere]

Tires?
Spacers for allowing chains if R-4's?

Forks, iMatch, 4-1 bucket, grappple?

Cab?

Armor?

 

[Carl Bert]

Spring is around the corner (today will be the first time above 0/32f in 3 weeks!) so it is time to get ordering a 3320. Reason for the 3320 vs my 2720 is loader capacity. Love the 2720 (60 hours) and is a great tag team with the X585 (will be replacing it with a 748 in the same purchase) however I have not been able to do a number of jobs becuase of the capacity issue.

My plan is to price out the 3320/748 at two local dealers, determine the trade in value with each of them, figure out what I can sell each of the tractors for privately (if needed) and if everything seems fair, buy locally. If selling privately seems okay but the local dealers will not move on their price too much, I will buy in Montana. The USD/CAD configuration price difference is just over $6,000 so driving 8 hours each way to save $6,000 makes sense-especially when the two currencies are at par. Only issue is warranty. By saving $6,000, I can afford to travel there a few times and still be ahead if the warranty issue is large enough to justify the drive.

My plan on the 3320 is to get the following. Please let me know if I've missed anything I should consider, and advice on the hydraulics options. Back hoe yes, potential plow off a qh-hopefully, not to much else i can think of now, but I don't want to get in the same pinch I'm in now where I could have...but I didn't.

Thanks as always for the great advice and help.

I don't understand why warranty would be an issue. Doesn't any John Deere dealer honor the JD warranty, no matter where it was purchased?

As far as options, I remember that the 3320 had a long list of them. I recently looked at one myself. Beautiful machine. The one area where JD falls short and the reason I bought the Kubota, is in the backhoe dept. You should look into a Woods backhoe, more bucket pressure then the JD. If I knew about it last year I would probably be driving a 3320 myself today. Not that I don't love my Kubota. Its just that I have been a die hard John Deere fan my whole life and it wasn't easy making the Kubota switch.

Good luck and don't forget to post some pics :thumbsup:

 

[RoyJackson]

I don't understand why warranty would be an issue. Doesn't any John Deere dealer honor the JD warranty, no matter where it was purchased?

Yes, the dealer would...but don't expect the quick service one would get if they were a customer of that dealer.

 

[dmay]

Hydro
375 BH (correct model?)
vertical exhaust
300CX
Top n Tilt
P Beyond
3rd function SVC (needed?)
4/5th SVC (needed?)
Electric Diverter (needed?)

The 375 BH will need the PB kit. Top n' Tilt requires 2 SCVs which can come from the Electric Diverter kit. What other hydraulic equipment do you have in mind?

 

[toolbox5]

i can assure you , you won't be disapointed with a 375 bh i have pulled out some serious stumps with it , if you don't need a cab go with a 485 it'll pull a woods bh in half .

 

[CinderSchnauzer]

Consider the hard lines kit to the FEL Grapple? Power angle front blade?
Will you ever need a mid PTO? Front mount Snow blower? Rotary Broom?
Consider a SS QA instead of the JD There are a lot of FEL mount attachments used & a lot I see have the SS QA - not that many with JD QA
The Automotive Cruise @ $100 - also allows button access to the Load Match, Motion Match function.
Ever plan to pull a trailer on road - get the 7 pin trailer con for $100
Front / Rear Works lights?

If you live in North Alta and ever might want a Cab - get it now - expensive to upgrade later.

This may have changed. Email JD and ask. When I bought my 2008 was told by JD corporate that warranty coverage area is Canada / US.

 

[zr2blz]

Go for the 485 if you can, I have the 447 and wished I had gotten the 448 for $1000 more. My outriggers are moving to the rear on mine, I have about 150 hours on 447 and 900 hr on 3320. You will need weight in the tires (the 447 has problem lifting my rear with weighted tire, 448 would lift it with ease).

 

[AKfish]

You'll have to stick with the 375BH if you go with a cab model. Open station gets you the more capable 485 hoe.

I guess the "bean counters" at JD corporate believe the added expense of a cab would mean reduced backhoe sales if they offered a hoe model that would add another $1,000 or so to the deal... makes perfect sense!

You didn't elaborate on the "jobs" that you currently do with your 2720. Just loader work? Commercial work? It seems to me that you're spending quite a bit of money for just another 1.5-2hp.

Depending upon what you do with the tractor - that should play an important part in the decision of the model you buy. Or you might find yourself in a similar situation again in a couple of years from now...

AKfish

 

[BleedGreen]

I guess the "bean counters" at JD corporate believe the added expense of a cab would mean reduced backhoe sales if they offered a hoe model that would add another $1,000 or so to the deal... makes perfect sense!

My understanding is that it physically will not fit.

 

[North585]

Thanks everyone for the replies.

Interesting thought on the warranty. I will dig into that aspect more. My ignorance....all vehicles, except Infiniti, will not honor the US warranty in Canada. If JD does, that would be a bonus

Good thoughts on the rear hydraulics. I'll make sure to order the diverter.

The main use of the tractor is loader work:
moving firewood on pallets
moving round bales (can't do that now)
misc bucket work-landscape work

Back hoe work will be a fair bit of landscaping-digging out for paving stone walkways and a large patio, stump removal, large pond project planned. Sounds like the 485 is the way to go.

Box blading the gravel driveway-can't wait to have the Top n Tilt.

No plan for a cab. Would be nice to have but tough to justify. The tractor doesn't get used too much in the winter.

I agree the $ are high to go up a bit in hp. The main reason is for the better loader lift capacity.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[boggen]

if you are not a DIY'er,
--2 rear work lights ((worth it))
--2 front work lights ((not so much worth it, but nice))
--ROPS box comes in handy for tools
--if no hooks on front bucket, see about dealer welding you some on.
--see about a hook on rear of backhoe to pull things
--hook on backhoe bucket if it doesn't have one.
--front grill guard, helps save the radiator and front of the tractor
--tooth bar for front bucket
--teeth for backhoe bucket if it does not come with.

attachments
--pallet forks and/or hay spear, that either slide on front bucket, or swap out front bucket for pallet forks and/or hay spear
--rottery cutter, to deal with tall weeds in the woods.
--3pt tiller
--3pt rear blade, vs a snow blower attachment. (granted front bucket or box blade can be used, but rear blade you can turn at an angle (helps))

tires
--turf? R4? chains?