Purchasing the proper chain sharpener

   / Purchasing the proper chain sharpener #51  
I have only been using the Baileys/Carlton chain for the last year or so. So far the only unusual wear was losing a few teeth on a 32" skip tooth chain when I found a piece of metal inside a 4.5' madrone, and I don't blame the chain for that.

It does not stay sharp quite as long as Stihl chain but it's cheaper.
 
   / Purchasing the proper chain sharpener #52  
If you are in the market for a pro grinderrrrrhttp://simingtonchaingrinder.com
I bought mine a very long time ago.

Silvey quit making them I think, and I am not aware of another company with a similar reputation and product. I
 
   / Purchasing the proper chain sharpener #53  
How much does a product like that cost? I didn’t see much information on the website.
 
   / Purchasing the proper chain sharpener #54  
4570Man said:
How much does a product like that cost? I didn’t see much information on the website.
Click to expand...

Their site links over to a Madsens, a very good shop up here and where my big saw came from

Welcome To Madsen's Online

These guys have have a bit of a cult following, they are very, very knowledgeable.
 
   / Purchasing the proper chain sharpener #56  
Probably as far from a pro as anyone here, but I 'revived' a few chains recently with a $30 grinder from RK. They wouldn't cut at all and now work fairly decent again. They make a pretty good pile of chips beside a Hickory log. I don't take care of things well and they probably hit the dirt more than a few times, or went through mud on bark. Lengths from a 10" pole saw chain to a few 18s. First couple I did, it seemed to take too much off, so I had to make some adjustments and learn what not to do. It's not a great tool, but it serves my yardowner needs.

I tried some of those diamond grinder bits for a Dremel tool. Wasn't wild about them.

When I use a file, I just try to 'feel' for smooth. When I first put the file in, I can feel and hear a rough edge. Just a couple of strokes and I can feel the difference. I don't try to take a lot off that way.

I've cut Locust, Red Oak, Maple, Cherry, Sassafras, Cedar and Hickory so far plus a few I don't really know what they are. Some were cutting live trees, others were deadfalls or stuff I had in the pile for a year or two. Locust gets like concrete after it sits in the Sun that long.
 
   / Purchasing the proper chain sharpener #58  
I've been using the older Harbor Freight grinder for the last ~8 years, saved several chains that were sharpened bad ($5 garage sale saws are usually $5 from badly sharpened chains from my experience). The grinder isn't great but is repeatable which is WAY better than a chain that will jam in the log after going in 2"... I screwed it to a 2x4 instead of screwing it to a bench, that way I just clamp the 2x4 into a vise and go to town... I need to take the angle marks off the front since they don't mean squat :), it is not symmetrical at all, my calibrated eyeball is better than the markings...

I don't do commercial firewood and don't even get to do all of my firewood work at once so isn't a huge deal, I have two identical saws I keep going in case one gets cranky for some reason or another (40CC Craftsman/Poulan units that I have $10-20 in each, get the job done)
 
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