Push Button Dual Range HST

[dieselpwr]

BadgerPhil

The way the hi/low pushbutton feature works is really pretty simple. The button just energizes a solenoid valve when it is pushed for hi & de-energizes when pushed for low. The Solenoid itself is pretty simple (not much to go wrong with it) & it is located on the outside of the tractor making it easy to work on or replace in the unlikely event something were to go wrong with it. I wouldn't worry about it. It is an awsome & super convienent feature - especially when plowing snow or doing loader work. I have even found myself using it when mowing.

Troy

 

[jinman]

I haven't heard anyone mention that the "turtle-rabbit" switch on the right fender control pod does the same thing as the joystick switches. If the switch on the joystick were to get zapped for some reason, the other switch would probably work just fine, allowing you to finish what you are working on before even having to get the switch repaired.

...and not the main reason for this thread, but Dave, the Jubilee was made by Ford in 1953 (called the Golden Jubilee because of the fifty year anniversary for Ford). It replaced the 8N and had overhead valves, and the hydraulic pump was moved to the engine rather than underneath the seat, inside the hydraulic lift housing like the earlier Ns. The Jubilee is also called an NAA model. I believe the engine is rated at 35 pto hp. Harry Ferguson sued Henry Ford over patents related to the 3-pt hitch and hydraulics. Ferguson won his suit and Ford had to stop production of the 8N. The Jubilee was Ford's answer, and the rest is history...

My TC45D was not on the recall list. I just got 50 hours on it today, so I'm going to get my 50 hr service this week. So far, I have been extremely happy with my tractor and my dealer.

My apologies to everyone for getting off the thread topic.



JimI

 

[VTSTEVE]

I have put about 20 hrs+ on my TC29D just in the last week moving snow (anybody want any?). This is done exclusively in low range and I back what Peter said about the dual range being indispensable. But to respond directly to BadgerPhil's question (re: dual range buttons) allow me to vent a minor frustration and throw justa little cold water onto the thread.

When I am working with gloves on (even us tough Vermontas need that comfort at 20 degrees and below), I fairly often inadvertantly switch the button from rabbit to turtle and vice-versa. Most of the time I realize it right away but often, if I am manipulating the bucket with the tractor standing still and "flip the switch", I don't know I have switched up or down until I begin to move - sometimes with interesting results! I think both the feature and ergonomic design of including a second control on the joystick are sheer genius but the ergonomics are not quite perfect enough for my big ole gloved hand while I'm trying to find a place to dump too much snow!

My suggestion for the next generation of Class 3 TCs - add an idiot light to the dash that indicates which speed range is engaged. That way, one could just glance down and see what range was lit there instead of having to look around at the fender mounted switch. I tend to be peripherally glancing down at the dash most of the time and think I would notice as soon as the light "changed". Whadaya think?

 

[jinman]

You don't need gloves to "monkey fist" the switch and change ranges without knowing it. I like your idea of a light on the dash. Considering the lights are already in the fender switch, I would think that would be really easy to rig up. How about buying a spare turtle-rabbit switch so you have the appropriate lights and then disassemble the switch parts for constructing a dash mount. I already have a blank on my dash and I might be able to install the switch "as-is" in parallel with the fender switch.

You definitely have me thinking....hmmm.


JimI

 

[farmacist]

I agree- I frequently find that I have pushed one of the joystick buttons and did not notice. I too, thought it would be good to have a light or even better, the 2 switches that are on the right fender, on the dash in those nice black empty spaces right in front of me so I could always see what switch I am pushing and what indicator light is on. I wondered if I could move the 2 switches so I pulled the black plastic housing and looked at the switches. There is a wire whip with about 20 wires going to the 2 switches. I then measured the whip to see if it was long enough to reach the dashboard if I changed its routing from the main harness. Sorry bout that. The whip is about a foot short so I guess I will have to leave them on the right fender.Frank

 

[jinman]

I used to teach wire harness building for the F-16 fighter, so I am pretty good at this kind of stuff and will probably try to just build something myself to put in parallel with the fender switch. I find I really use the fender switch a lot when I am using a rear-mounted implement instead of the loader. As a matter of fact, I generally rest my right hand on the fender bar (grip) and easily toggle the switch. That's just my habit.

When/if I get around to the switch mod, I'll get back to you on how it works. My luck, New Holland will come out with a factory mod about the time I get it figured out.



JimI