push button release yoke

[ugabulldog]

I am still having trouble removing this from pto spline. I punched out the push button, (ws just trying to push in but had to hit with hammer and it all came out). Should this just come off the spline now?? (other than just being very old and rusted on)

 

[Gunny]

Soak the pto shaft with a good rust release while turning the shaft by hand, let it set at least 24 hours, spray it again and start trying to tap it back (and forth) with a smaller hammer (it is kinda tuff in that small area). If it doesn't start moving, soak her again and let her sit, try tapping another day.

Sooner or later, the rust release will get to where it need to be and you will be able to tap it back enough to break it free.

Looks like you may need to replace the U-joint also

 

[Ed of all trades]

Don't hit to hard or you will need to replace the yoke as well. A soft face hammer would help. Ed

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Kroil is the best rust release / penetrant I have found.

 

[murphy1244]

Kroil is the best rust release / penetrant I have found.

Here Here, I buy it by the gallon.

 

[gwdixon]

It definitely should come apart now that the locking shaft (pin) is gone. Once it moves just the slightest it should come loose. Soaking it with penetrating oil of some sort is a good idea as already mentioned.

Other things to try.
>Tap all around the female joint to try to break the rust bond.
>Use Ed's Red to soak. (1/3 part of each...ATF fluid, acetone, solvent of any kind)
>Sometimes heat, like an A/C torch, will break the rust. Rinse off the petroleum-based soaking solution with soap & water first. Try to keep the heat away from the tractor-side PTO shaft to not damage the seal.
>A crowbar wedged between the tractor and the joint might be used. Be careful.
>A chain around the yoke and a come-along can put enough separation stress on the rust so that tapping will slightly move the yoke on the splines. It will then come off.

 

[CCWKen]

The buttons on mine (3) are held in by a slightly oversized lip on the button. Basically, a press fit that taps into the button bore. I made a new button for one of the yokes and the lip diameter was critical. Your button should tap back in ok. I've seen some with a clip or small cotter pin on the end of the spring plunger too.

And yes, the yoke should come off with the button removed. Don't try to hammer it off or you'll blow the shaft bearings. If need be, remove the cross from the yoke and use a screw-type claw or bearing puller. Keep soaking!

Added: I hope you bought the tractor that way because that is total neglect to let it freeze on the PTO shaft.

 

[CCWKen]

Here Here, I buy it by the gallon.

I find that plain ole diesel works just as well and I buy that by the gallon too.

 

[Mallard1]

Try a product called "free all". I have found that when dealing with rust it blows away kroil and I've always thought of kroil as the best.

Free All Deep Penetrating Oil - Walmart.com

It should be available lots of places

 

[Bill Hoffman]

Best ever penetrant, 50% ATF, 50% acetone. Mix and apply. Better than ANYTHING else.
Finestkind.

 

[ugabulldog]

Added: I hope you bought the tractor that way because that is total neglect to let it freeze on the PTO shaft.

This is on a spreader, he threw it in for like $50 when I bought my sprayer, probably still paid too much.

 

[CCWKen]

Best ever penetrant, 50% ATF, 50% acetone. Mix and apply. Better than ANYTHING else.
Finestkind.

Yeah, I've seen the report and claim. Have YOU tried it? I couldn't get the acetone to mix with ATF. What's your trick?

 

[murphy1244]

Yeah, I've seen the report and claim. Have YOU tried it? I couldn't get the acetone to mix with ATF. What's your trick?

I heard it was three parts. 1 part diesel 1 part acetone and 1 part ATF.

 

[houser52]

Kroil is the best rust release / penetrant I have found.

It works when other stuff won't touch it. I use it a lot.

 

[gwdixon]

I heard it was three parts. 1 part diesel 1 part acetone and 1 part ATF.

I use the 3 part formula of Ed's Red. Diesel or any other solvent can be used for that part.

Here is the "official" formula for Ed's Red.

CONTENTS: Ed's Red Bore Cleaner

1 part Dexron II, IIe or III ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.

1 part Kerosene - deodorized, K1

1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits, Fed. Spec. TT-T-2981F, CAS
#64741-49-9, or may substitute "Stoddard Solvent", CAS #8052-41-3, or
equivalent, (aka "Varsol")

1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.

(Optional up to 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, OK to
substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)


Here is a test result for torque in removing rusted nuts:

*Penetrating oil .......... Average load*
None ........................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix...............53 pounds

 

[Poopdeck Pappy]

Try a product called "free all". I have found that when dealing with rust it blows away kroil and I've always thought of kroil as the best.

Free All Deep Penetrating Oil - Walmart.com

It should be available lots of places

Hmmmm. I'm always game to try a better mousetrap, especially if there is the potential of breaking through stuff that is rusted together. I'll pick some up next time I'm in Walmart.

 

[CDennyRun]

Kroil is the best rust release / penetrant I have found.

Cheers to kroil! I used it on all my three point adjustments and PTO shaft when I first got my tractor used. The splines and yoke were not moving prior to applying Kroil. Now they slide very little effort. The stuff is awesome!

 

[PROFarms]

Yeah, I've seen the report and claim. Have YOU tried it? I couldn't get the acetone to mix with ATF. What's your trick?

We make ours up in a small spray bottle. Just have to shake it before you spray each time and just keep shaking it else it separates. Also don't leave in bottle too long as acetone evaporates, causes pressure build up then the bottle goes bang. Especially if in a warm area!

 

[MESSMAKER]

Sometimes it is not all rust. It can be a combination of grease and dirt on the spline and the PTO shaft. I have had luck separating the shaft so you have something smaller to work with. Soak down the connection for a day or two then tap the shaft toward the tractor. Once you get it moving, re coat the spline and see if you can work it loose. Make sure you clean everything afterward so you don't get to do this again next time.

 

[zzvyb6]

Check to see if the push-pin is bent. If the PTO shat is too long, then it will psh the yoke into the tractor which can cause the pin to bend. Then it won't back off without jamming.

From the pictures, though, it looks like a high crud factor from rust, dried grease, and dirt mixed with leaking transmission oil has caused your problem.