Pushing back the woods

lloydp · Apr 6, 2001

I have a DR brush mower,,,go with the brush hog. Dr works fine but only has a 26" blade, so takes lots of time and Blackberry bushes like to grab your arms and face if you aren't careful.

The only reason I use it is I don't have a tractor yet. I think you can buy one heck of a brush hog for $2,000, which is what the 10.5 DR costs.

TraderMark · Apr 8, 2001

rwarner

This is the BEST thing I have found for removing saplings up to about 4 inches. It gets the tree, root and all and there's less ground disturbance then pushing the trees over and "flipping" them out of the hole with the FEL.

I built this one myself to mount on the 3pt (added the rest of the "fingers" just this week) but it's based on the Brush Brute. I think the Brush Brute mounts on the FEL but you have to remove the bucket to mount it.

scruffy · Apr 9, 2001

Now I wonder how hard it would be to adapt that for pulling T-Posts? Or do you think it would 'grab' a t-post as is, and pull it w/o bending it? Maybe adding a flip across bar to lock onto the nubs of the t-post?

Edited by scruffy on 04/09/01 00:10 AM (server time).

TraderMark · Apr 9, 2001

scruffy

I hadn't thought about the Tposts, but I have some that have to go and I'll try pulling them with this rig and let you know how it works.

skent · Apr 9, 2001

FANTASTIC!! Looks GREAT! I'm gunna fire up the welder this weekend!

Thanks for the idea!

Steve

gordon · Apr 9, 2001

Ditto that!!! How long did you make the teeth and what are the gaps at the open ends???

Thanks in advance
Gordon

Jag · Apr 9, 2001

TraderMark, how long are the fingers, spacing, and how are they made... Thanks, I will have a local shop get started this week...

TraderMark · Apr 9, 2001

I'll do my best to give all the specs on the first try, but if I don't.... just holler !! /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

The crossbar and the upright for the top link are made from 2X3X1/2 wall tubing.

The fingers are 15 inches total length (that leaves 12 inches protruding from the crossbar) and are made of 1/2X3 flatbar.
I left 1/2 inch in the center of each finger and tapered them back 11 inches. Each finger has a piece of 3/8X2 flatbar welded edge ways and welded to the crossbar to prevent the fingers from bending.

dieselpwr · Apr 9, 2001

This might be a really dumb question but... have any of you guys that cut these 1-3" dia. saplings ever punctured or cut a tire by driving over the stems in future passes or while mowing a month or three later? I would think they would be pretty rigid already when they are that big... or doesn't it leave the stems very sharp when they are cut off? Those tires are expensive! /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif I may be faced with this situation in the future & would hate to be faced with big tire repair bills.

Troy

Bird · Apr 9, 2001

have any of you guys that cut these 1-3" dia. saplings ever punctured or cut a tire by driving over the stems in future passes or while mowing a month or three later?

No, I haven't, but my neighbor sure did; on a tractor with 38" wheels and I helped him fix the flat; not a lot of fun, especially since he didn't know until he did it that his tires were filled with calcium.

Bird