Pushing over cedars
- Thread starter txloops
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With my small Kubota, I bring the loader bucket up about 4 ft off the ground, put the tractor in low, roll up and stop with the bucket just touching the tree, hit the differential lock, and press the hydro pedal all the way down. Usually it will push over a tree about six inch diameter at the base, but not a six inch Florida Pine. Once the roots have pulled up a little on the side where the tractor is, I dig down a few inches with the bucket, used the same procedure to push forward, but curl the bucket up after it goes under the roots. Repeat these two steps a few times and most small trees come right out. With a tree that has a real deep root ball, I've been digging around with the backhoe a little before I push it over.
I don't know if there's a right way or not. Just go with trial and error, without beating up the tractor. In other words, no full speed ramming action and you should be OK.
I don't know if there's a right way or not. Just go with trial and error, without beating up the tractor. In other words, no full speed ramming action and you should be OK.
txloops,
Welcome to TBN.
I do pretty much what aardvark is recommending (although I don't have cedar).
Please fill out your profile when you get a minute so we know what type of tractor and "stuff".
To elaborate on a couple things:
I don't have hydro. If you have a gear driven tractor, put it in it's lowest gear and have the RPM's up a little when you go to push.
Be careful if the tree is dead. If/when it comes back, the top can snap off from the rocking and come down on you and/or your tractor.
When using the bucket to push on the tree, try to keep the bottom of the bucket perpendicular to what you're pushing on. If you put the bottom (flat side) of the bucket flat against the tree, it may bend your bucket.
When the tree goes over, watch the root ball on the near side. Depending on the diameter of the root ball, it'll sneak up under your tractor. You don't want to get hung-up nor have the roots damage something in the front or undercarriage of the tractor.
Brian
Welcome to TBN.
I do pretty much what aardvark is recommending (although I don't have cedar).
Please fill out your profile when you get a minute so we know what type of tractor and "stuff".
To elaborate on a couple things:
I don't have hydro. If you have a gear driven tractor, put it in it's lowest gear and have the RPM's up a little when you go to push.
Be careful if the tree is dead. If/when it comes back, the top can snap off from the rocking and come down on you and/or your tractor.
When using the bucket to push on the tree, try to keep the bottom of the bucket perpendicular to what you're pushing on. If you put the bottom (flat side) of the bucket flat against the tree, it may bend your bucket.
When the tree goes over, watch the root ball on the near side. Depending on the diameter of the root ball, it'll sneak up under your tractor. You don't want to get hung-up nor have the roots damage something in the front or undercarriage of the tractor.
Brian
stuart
Gold Member
Be careful not to back up with the cedar or any tree under the tractor where the limbs may catch your hoses or get under your tractor hood and break it. Tree limbs under the tractor can do damage if they get lodged while backing up.
jmc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Messages
- 3,197
- Location
- SW Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
<font color="blue"> "... and press the hydro pedal all the way down. Usually it will push over a tree about six inch diameter..."
<font color="black"> Gear guy myself but doesn't pushing the hydro pedal increase the gear ratio which would reduce the pushing force?
John
<font color="black"> Gear guy myself but doesn't pushing the hydro pedal increase the gear ratio which would reduce the pushing force?
John
Bird
Rest in Peace
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( doesn't pushing the hydro pedal increase the gear ratio which would reduce the pushing force? )</font>
Yes, and if you do it quickly you can stall the engine. If you do it slowly, you'll either go, or spin the wheels, or hear the engine bog down a bit and a relief valve will open without killing the engine. At least that's the way it worked on both my Kubotas.
Yes, and if you do it quickly you can stall the engine. If you do it slowly, you'll either go, or spin the wheels, or hear the engine bog down a bit and a relief valve will open without killing the engine. At least that's the way it worked on both my Kubotas.
jmc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2003
- Messages
- 3,197
- Location
- SW Indiana
- Tractor
- Ford 1920 4x4 (traded in on Kubota). Case 480F TLB w/4 in 1 bucket, 4x4. Gehl CTL60 tracked loader, Kubota L4330 GST
Thanks. Sounds like Jared has power to spare.
Not too much power to spare, I just live in a sand pit, also known as south Florida. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif The soil is so sandy down here, most stuff comes out really easy.
Also normally I press the pedal down pretty slowly, it's not a "stomp on the pedal" procedure. If the pedal is all the way down, the root ball is on it's way out and I'm keeping the tree moving the direction I want it to go. That, and the BX23 low speed selection seems really low, but I haven't really used many other tractors to compare it to. I guess I wasn't clear in my first post, should have thought it through a little more.
Also normally I press the pedal down pretty slowly, it's not a "stomp on the pedal" procedure. If the pedal is all the way down, the root ball is on it's way out and I'm keeping the tree moving the direction I want it to go. That, and the BX23 low speed selection seems really low, but I haven't really used many other tractors to compare it to. I guess I wasn't clear in my first post, should have thought it through a little more.
pat32rf
Veteran Member
We live in a hilly area of rock, swamp and hardwoods and seem to be forever building trails for skidoos or 4wheelers. It is a lot easier to push atree out, roots and all than cut it off and then dispose of the stump. I have found that if you can get a tree to rock and move a bit at the roots, you can normally push it over. The secret is to remember that the higher on the tree you can push, the more leverage you have. Each time you rock it, a few more roots break. Sometimes you have to remove a bit of dirt with the FEL and sometimes you have to turn around and pull with a LONG strong rope, tied as high as you can reach. It also makes a difference if the soil is dry or wet and what kind of tree it is. Poplar and cedar tend to break off if pushed too hard, birch tend to drop branches on you and oak is a real challenge. Most maples in our area (less than 12" dia) come out fine. Pat
btolle
Platinum Member
PLEASE! Safety first. Pushing trees with a tractor can be deadly. A fella was killed last week about 20 miles from me. He was pushing on a tree and a big limb broke off and hit him on the head. He was DOA at the hospital. Any tree over 4" can kill you if you aren't careful.
You also need to be aware that the tree you are pushing on may not be the one that kills you. If you push it and the top hits a dead tree you can be in big trouble.
I bought a 150 foot rope that I can tie 6 feet or so up the tree and get way away from it when I pull.
About the hydrostatic: Pressing the pedal does not change the gear ratio any more than pushing the pedal on a standard transmission changes the gear ratio. See Eaton Web Site for a description of the principles of hydrostatic transmissions.
Bill Tolle
You also need to be aware that the tree you are pushing on may not be the one that kills you. If you push it and the top hits a dead tree you can be in big trouble.
I bought a 150 foot rope that I can tie 6 feet or so up the tree and get way away from it when I pull.
About the hydrostatic: Pressing the pedal does not change the gear ratio any more than pushing the pedal on a standard transmission changes the gear ratio. See Eaton Web Site for a description of the principles of hydrostatic transmissions.
Bill Tolle
rockslab
New member
As a retired safety guy I feel the need to comment. All the suggestions are very valid and this can be dangerous. I have many cedars on my property that I remove with the tractor.
A special caution when using a rope to pull anything. Make sure the rope has a high breaking strength. Unfortunately I have seen men cut in half and limbs severed when a rope breaks and whips back. This is especially likely to happen with synthetic ropes. If the rope seems to be stretching a lot and the diameter is getting thinner this is a sign to slack off on the pull, If you can find them ropes that have a "static" rating are safer, up to their load limit.
A special caution when using a rope to pull anything. Make sure the rope has a high breaking strength. Unfortunately I have seen men cut in half and limbs severed when a rope breaks and whips back. This is especially likely to happen with synthetic ropes. If the rope seems to be stretching a lot and the diameter is getting thinner this is a sign to slack off on the pull, If you can find them ropes that have a "static" rating are safer, up to their load limit.
bigpete
Veteran Member
Not many folks would use a rope for pulling. I know there is specialty rope made that can withstand the stress of pulling a tree out by the roots, but it would certainly be special order where I do my shopping. A safety rule of thumb is to make sure your chain/cable/etc is not the weakest link in your pulling asembly A smart rig will have the tractor's ground traction the weakest link. I use 3/8" or 5/16" Grade 70 transport chain and hook assembly for all my pulling and lifting with my 4110.
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