Pushing with a 3pt hitch...

   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #1  

Max2310

Silver Member
Joined
Apr 4, 2008
Messages
105
Location
Canada (QC)
Tractor
GC2310 2008
A while ago, I saw in a post someone who mentioned that a 3 pt hitch is made to pull not to push. A wasn't able to find some concrete information on that subject. I do agree that it must be stronger pulling but is pushing is something that should be avoid? Since I saw that post, every time I'm using my back blade in reverse, I think of that and ask myself that same question :confused:
 
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   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #2  
A while ago, I saw in a post someone who mentioned that a 3 pt hitch is made to pull not to push. A wasn稚 able to find some concrete information on that subject. I do agree that it must be stronger pulling but is pushing is something that should be avoid? Since I saw that post, every time I知 using my back blade in everse, I think of that and ask myself that same question :confused:

Think of it this way.... Most 3 pt hitch snowblowers are designed to be operated while driving in reverse. IE pushing. Granted from a simple physics stand point you can certainly pull more than you can push, but I imagine that it is all relative.

Cheers

Brian
 
   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #3  
A while ago, I saw in a post someone who mentioned that a 3 pt hitch is made to pull not to push. A wasn't able to find some concrete information on that subject. I do agree that it must be stronger pulling but is pushing is something that should be avoid? Since I saw that post, every time I'm using my back blade in reverse, I think of that and ask myself that same question :confused:
You can read this....hope it helps.



http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/50397-3-pt-hitch.html
 
   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #4  
I push snow, spread gravel all the time in reverse.
Also one is always pushing when using a rear mounted snow blower.

As with all ground contact implements you should only push/pull and not ram or slam into hard contact.
In other words don't collide with an object, if you want to extract a rock or root ball, the safe technique would be to 'kiss' it and reverse applying power as you lift the 3-point, i.e., lift and roll it out!
Naturally backgrading with smaller, like 3-4" stones should not be a problem.

Let the hydraulics do the hard work, they will act like a cushin or buffer.
 
   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #5  
Push or pulling with a 3 pt hitch mechanism is not about strength, but about load reaction mechanics. A blade, rake, plow, tiller etc. hitting an obstruction will tend to cause the implement to raise when the hitch geometry is properly arranged in forward motion. In reverse, the same geometry will tend to buckle the load path: The implement will dig in instead of wihdrawing.

Sometimes there is an advantage for each method. For example, I often run my 3pt tiller over my gravel driveway. Going forward, the tiller just jumps over the packed stone. Going in reverse, the tiller digs in and there is no jumping around. Likewise, if you mount a snowplow off the back of your tractor and push it in reverse, the plow will gouge a rut if it can dig in. Same thing if you go forward with it and the mount is angled downward. If you mount the frame ramping upward from the tractor frame to the plow, it will not dig in and ride an uneven roadway pretty well.

Its all about load path (geometry).

BTW: That's another reason I'm not a fan of loader mounted plows. Most operators set the plow frame at a downward angle and wind up messing up the koader frame, driveway or can't steer it.
 
   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #6  
Think of it this way.... Most 3 pt hitch snowblowers are designed to be operated while driving in reverse. IE pushing. Granted from a simple physics stand point you can certainly pull more than you can push, but I imagine that it is all relative.

Cheers

Brian

Well, thats true, but technically your not pushing the snow at all...only pushing the weight of the "Blower Box" to keep it fed of snow...so your not really applying undue stress..

Take it from someone who bent a 3pt arm like a Taco with my Box Blade...

What I now do is only box blade in reverse on Loose stuff I've piled up or spread out...no more reverse scraping...The same goes for snow blowers, its not an issue to snowblow the fresh stuff, but I wouldnt just ram it into a snowbank full of ice & such...
 
   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #7  
It really is just the lift arms or draft arms, what ever the proper term is for them, that are the weak link. There should be a way to make them capable of pushing what ever the tractor can throw at them. something like a trucks front plow frame.

Many of these implements are designed to be used in reverse, so no one can say you should never push with your 3 pt. I agree with the snow blower it's kinda pulling itself with the auger, but boxes and blades are designed to push as well as pull the tractors 3 pt systems should be built to handle it.

The rear of the tractor is known to be the heaviest, seems like all that's needed is to make the arms a little heavier.

I installed a truck plow on my 3 pt this year, and as great as it worked I couldn't recommend it to others here in good confidence for 2 reasons.
First, I think I did bend one of my arms a tad, almost not perceivable, but I was ramming snow banks with it, something I said I was not going to do. The rear plow was originally supposed to just be for cleanup after the front loader but it became apparent the the plow was so much quicker and I just used the loader to manage the banks and piles made by the plow.
Second, I thought I might take some heat for making such a recommendation that many here believe to be unorthodox or destructive.

So I won't recommend it to others but I will keep pushing with mine, My lift arms are pre bent right at a critical point making them vulnerable to further bending, just may reinforce my lift arms and be a little more respectful of the geometry.

JB.
 

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   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #8  
A while ago, I saw in a post someone who mentioned that a 3 pt hitch is made to pull not to push. A wasn't able to find some concrete information on that subject. I do agree that it must be stronger pulling but is pushing is something that should be avoid? Since I saw that post, every time I'm using my back blade in reverse, I think of that and ask myself that same question :confused:

Like Dave and JB said, many of the implements are made to push, not just pull.
That said, most of the lower drag links (or lift arms) have 2 bends in them. One is at the housing of the tractor and the other is at the swivel eyes so that the end of the links are facing straight back, perpendicular to the lift pins on the implement. That means there is an inherent weakness designed into them to take compressive load. They are not in a straight line with the load being pushed backwards so they could bend much easier than when pulling with them.

I personally don't move snow but do a lot of ground engaging dirt moving with my box blade. I've learned to be careful and try to push already loosened dirt by pushing in reverse. When I pushed really hard dirt and boulders, I bent those links. Here are a couple photos of the designed bends in the links on my tractor, and also of the bent ones.



Since I really wanted to use the pushing in reverse feature, I ended up reinforcing my drag links. I used a couple old 3/4" thick scarifiers and welded them to the bottoms of the drag links once I straightened them out. they are welded with heavy gussets and now the links form a "T" with the reinforcement on them. They are much stronger now. I do a lot of bulldozing in reverse and since this modification, I've had no problems of bending, nor has the tractor mount (for the links) suffered any damage. I still try to watch how much force I use pushing in reverse since my tractor is 55hp and weighs about 8,000lbs loaded. I still advocate using the implements in reverse since there are great benefits from such use. Just be sure you have the reinforcement and watch what you are doing and never slam into your object pile. That goes for going forward or reverse and for FEL use as well.
Rob-

 
   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #9  
Since I really wanted to use the pushing in reverse feature, I ended up reinforcing my drag links. I used a couple old 3/4" thick scarifiers and welded them to the bottoms of the drag links once I straightened them out.

I know I'd seen that type of reinforcement before, don't know if it was yours or someone else's but that looks like the best way to strengthen those arms without interfering with the range of movement or accessory placement on the 3pt or PTO.

I'm gonna do the same thing.

JB.
 
   / Pushing with a 3pt hitch... #10  
I understand the design of harnessed used on horses or mules was so they could push the load with their shoulder and not really pull it as they could push more than pull. Suspect a human can push more than we can pull also.

On running the tractor in reverse to me the most likely time to damage it is with speed and then hitting that sudden load or stop. Have done a fair amount of box blade, rear blade and bush hogging in reverse that if memory is correct with no damage. But do so in slower speeds. Have also learned to have both stabilizer tight to help prevent the side shift to the lift arms. Don't take this as any brand bashing but some brands just use lighter lift arms than others. Noticed that very much when really looked at tractors with Cat 2 lifts. Some had Cat 2 arms that were same weight as their Cat 1 models, which were about normal with other companies on Cat 1's. You also could have a brand who used the Cat 1 in HP range that others have gone Cat 2 arms or even a dealership (importer also I guess) installed lighter weight than that model calls for to make a little extra.
 

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