Put a dab of dielectric grease on the bottom of light bulbs.

[bcp]

Household bulb bases used to be brass, but all I see now is AL, except some heavy-duty bulbs. AL bases in AL sockets makes for sticky removal.

Bruce

 

[sixdogs]

There is some mention here of lubing the bulb threads to make removal or installation easier. I say don't do it. Faced with that problem I wiped little light oil on the threads and when I hit the switch the bulb shorted or whatever and either massively burned out and may have exploded. I can't remember but do remember why I steer clear of electric anything.

 

[TractorGuy]

What? You sure??

Edit: This was my problem. I went digging in my tool box and still had the stuff. It was a silicone compound, not dielectric grease. It's going in the trash.

Petroleum jelly works good but has a low melting point and melts away in hot climates. I use it cause it's cheap and readily available.

 

[CobyRupert]

Huh?
I thought one puts the grease on AFTER joining the two pieces (e.g. a battery terminal and wire clamp) are in contact. To me it makes sense that one wants a good metal to metal, conductor to conductor contact. Not metal to dielectric to metal contact.

I thought the grease was applied afterwards to form an oxygen barrier so corrosion doesn't form on the exposed surfaces (especially when you have bonded dissimilar metals); not applied beforehand to improve conduction.

Am I wrong?

 

[orezok]

Re: Put a dab of dialectric grease on the bottom of light bulbs.

Dielectric grease is nonconductive.. PJelly is probably conductive.

I suppose that's why they fill transformers with oil. :confused2:

 

[JRobyn]

bcp nailed my usual problem with bulbs. Most all are made with an aluminum base, as is the socket. Add bulb heat and wait a few years for typical bulb life and they often GALL enough when trying to change them that the glass breaks and I have to roll up the remains of the bulb base with a needlenose pliers to get it out. And then shop vac all the debris off the floor.

This prevents it totally, and is made so that the bulb heat doesn't cook it into a glue that defeats the purpose -

Bulbez Home

Regular old thread anti-seize works just as well, but it's a lot messier.

 

[k0ua]

Huh?
I thought one puts the grease on AFTER joining the two pieces (e.g. a battery terminal and wire clamp) are in contact. To me it makes sense that one wants a good metal to metal, conductor to conductor contact. Not metal to dielectric to metal contact.

I thought the grease was applied afterwards to form an oxygen barrier so corrosion doesn't form on the exposed surfaces (especially when you have bonded dissimilar metals); not applied beforehand to improve conduction.

Am I wrong?

I cover the battery post, and the battery clamp with grease, then put on the battery clamp and tighten, then recover the battery clamp making sure the grease extends past the plastic insulation all the way around so not any air can get into the junction. Never a problem in over 40 years of doing this both commercially and for myself. I guarantee if you use NoOxId on battery connections and do it this way, you will never see battery terminal corrosion again in your lifetime. The way I yapp about and promote this stuff you would think I was a paid professional shill for the Sanchem company. I am not. I have never bought so much as an ounce of their product, I am still operating on the left over tubes and jars from years ago when I installed telephone PBX battery backup systems, and they all came with this grease to install on the batteries. This stuff just works. I have no idea what is in it.. Probably causes cancer or something..

On a microscopic level I think the grease is pushed away from the metal to metal contact, yet it prevents any fume laden air to get into the joint to cause that horrible whitish/greenish corrosion you fellows are all to familiar with.

 

[oldpilgrim]

I found that teflon grease works very well.

 

[k0ua]

The way I figure it, I may have enough NoOxId to take me to the end. I still have maybe 8 to 10 oz. of the stuff, and it takes very little to corrosion proof something. I hope I live long enough to need to buy some, but I am not counting on it.

 

[Sodo]

Re: Put a dab of dialectric grease on the bottom of light bulbs.

2ndhalf. I'm not sure how conductivity at the base has anything to do with filament temperature.

Less conductivity at the base would lower the filament temperature. The result being prolonged bulb life (not less bulb life).