Putting in an entrance culvert

   / Putting in an entrance culvert #11  
That sure is a pretty job.:thumbsup: If the dirt/rock starts to fill the ends, you can easily add tapered ends and rip-rap around the pipe.

I'm curious about one thing. Was it code to put crushed rock below the culvert and around it? The reason I ask is that I thought culverts were supposed to have a seal with their ribs in native soil or clay then covered with crushed rock. Won't the crushed rock allow water to go around the culvert instead of through it? Maybe the road base is a tighter seal since it contains powder. I really am not an expert. I'm just going on how I've always installed culverts. I could be the one doing it all wrong.:confused3:
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Yeah, I wasn't set on how to trim out the pipe ends -- around here some people leave them sticking out, while others use rip rap, and then some just fill in with dirt and let the weeds take over. I figure I'd try approach #3, since it would be nice to be on the same side of the war as the weeds (for once). I'll see how it goes and tweak as needed.

I was going by VDOT (Virginia Dept of Transportation) specs, and they called for crusher run as the bedding and fill material, with the option to use #57 for the bedding if the bottom of the ditch had standing water. I assume that the crusher run must gum up around the pipe well enough to seal it. I went out looked at the pipe tonight after a day of solid rain, and it was flowing real nicely.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #13  
How do the plastic culverts compare with the steel ones on strength, price, and duribility?

When the escavator put in my culvert, he used 3" limestone under and next to the steel culvert, then used 3/4" on top for the driving surface. If you fasten the taper ends on, you can get a wider driving width.

Good job!:thumbsup:
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Based on the required cover depth, which is actually what carries the bulk of the load around the pipe like an arch, plastic and steel are equivalent. Both require less cover depth than concrete, which I assume is because they handle live loads better.

I never priced steel, so I can't say how they compare there, but I thought $165 was reasonable for the plastic pipe, plus it was light enough to handle by myself.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #15  
Very impressive work ... you did a fine job.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #16  
Looks real good.

How far away is the quarry? That seems like a good bit of money for just two loads of gravel. We just had about 70 tons of crusher run delivered for $840.

I'm getting ready to build some new farm roads with 357 for the base and crusher run on top. I'll have plenty of work for the little B3200 soon, lol.

Keep the pics coming as your project moves on. :thumbsup:
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #17  
VA code is only 9" above the pipe? I think you'll be glad you spent the time and money and went thicker. Looks good. I usually try to pack 3/4" crusher run with fines (seams to have all sorts of different names across the country, one place near me calls it plant mix) around the pipe to help seal the outside.

The ROW that I live on has pipes at all sorts of depths. Anything less than a foot on top of it are failing due to the weight of things like cement trucks. I've been going through and replacing them as they fail. I have two that need to be removed. On a side note 15" ID is the minimum I would go with. 12" or less tend to get plugged real easy.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Verticaltrx, the quarry is somewhere in the western part of the state. The stone yard, which gets bulk rock by train and crushes it here, is only 6 miles from my place. I was planning to get the crusher run from them directly, but my order was too small -- they only run bigger trucks, and I had concerns about knocking down a bigger pile in place and getting good spread/compaction. If I paid to have them split the load, the delivery charge would have been too high. So, I ended up buying from a local mulch place that sells rock and will do smaller truck loads (in fact, the max they can carry is 10 tons per trip). They get their materials from that same stone yard. I'll have to revisit pricing and sourcing when we do the full driveway and are looking at bigger loads.

crazyal, the VDOT rules are a bit scattered. For plastic or steel pipes, they recommend 12" cover, but note that 9" is acceptable for entrance culverts. How an entrance culvert differs from a culvert elsewhere in a driveway is not clear to me. They also have requirements for the bedding depth under the pipe, and amount of fill on the sides of the pipe. It scales with diameter. I agree with you on the 15" -- in fact, that's the minimum size that will handle a "10 year" storm event here, which is what they use to size ditches. 15" ID pipe is OK to handle runoff from an 8 acre watershed.

Right now the main road is private, but VDOT will be accepting it into their maintenance soon, so the developer insisted I follow the rules exactly. Some of the other lots have construction culverts, which are nothing more than a concrete pipe with fabric and #3 gravel over the top (ranging from 0" to 4" deep -- in most cases, traffic is driving over the pipe itself). How they will pass inspection is beyond me, unless VDOT simply doesn't care about construction entrances (I think the main requirement for a construction entrance is to have #3 gravel to clean mud off truck tires).

Most of the lots are shorter next to the road and won't have a long drive way, so construction traffic crosses the culvert and that's about it. Our lot is longer, so we'll need about 600 ft of driveway beyond the culvert just to get to the building site. I think we'll need to do the driveway first and have it fully cleared and surfaced before we get any construction traffic. I can't see having a 600 ft construction road that's all mud -- there's no way that's going to work out. I imagine we'll complete the driveway right up to near the building site, and put the fabric and #3 gravel up there to clean mud off tires before traffic hits the driveway. Probably add another run of fabric and #3 up near the road, perhaps on top of my culvert. That will help it take the added abuse and perhaps resist rutting from trucks turning off the road.

I do think I will widen the entrance radius a bit. Right now it's a 12' radius, per VDOT specs, but because this is a single lane road, you can't really make a wide turn. So if I add more radius to the driveway entrance, that will help.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #19  
I am getting ready to do a somewhat smaller version of this, and your photos and descriptions are very helpful. Thanks.
 
   / Putting in an entrance culvert #20  
If you live in colder climates, 20' at an entrance is a little narrow. The Maine DEP Road manual has been upgraded to also increase minimum size to 18". I'm not entirely on board with the 18" deal, as most of the ones I install are 12 and 15", and if properly installed with rip-rap, settlement pools and catch basins they handle the load just fine. If you plow snow, 20' is narrow to be trying to make a swing into a driveway. Just an fyi.

I've had a customer that was dirt poor and needed their driveway fixed, bad. I installed a 6" smooth-bore culvert, as that was all they could afford. The road association showed up and had a fit that I wasn't putting in a big culvert (but they weren't willing to pay for it) and said I'd have to come back and fix it. I did exceptionally deep and wide catch basins, did some diversions and used rock found on-site to rip-rap and check dam. Culvert has been there 5 years now with no maintenance. It replaced a 12", btw.

It's all in how you install them.
 

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