PYO Clutch

[FotonOwner]

Amazing, isn't it, how a fraction of a millimeter of movement at the pivot point of an arm can have so much effect at the other end? Your photo of the arm looked like there was maybe a degree or two of movement on the shaft but that translates to a lot at the end of the arm.

Glad you got it fixed! DId that fix both the main clutch and the PTO clutch?

Rich

Rich,
It is very pleasing.
I figured there was possibly 1 mm of slippage but that is only about 10 mm from the axis, so at the TOB end of the internal lever (perhaps 100 mm from the axis) there could be 10 mm difference. The TOB was only moving about 2 mm so an extra 10 mm would be more than enough to hit the aux fingers (7 mm away).
The main clutch was working ok, but as the TOB was only moving a couple of mm with a clearance of 1 - 1.5 mm it was very marginal (probably why someone had removed the limit stop screw).

Yes both clutches operating, I engaged the PTO and rotated the engine with the clutch in and no shaft movement (fantastic). I also checked the aux fingers with the clutch in and they were hard against the TOB.

Cheers

 

[Rich Waugh]

Outstanding! You obviously corrected what had been a problem of some history with the previous owner, and now you've got a good tractor again. Didn't even have to drop a lot for parts, either.:thumbsup:

Rich

 

[greg_g]

My apologies about that broken pin. Clearly the geometry of that Foton is different than other brands we've worked on here. Having said that, I suspect that the hack job on the pedal affected the geometry too - possibly even bad enough to have snapped that pin. Might wanna consider returning the pedal to something resembling original.

And you still have to resolve the issue of all those malaligned release fingers. The 3 main drive fingers must contact the bearing face simultaneously (with each other), followed precisely by the 3 PTO drive fingers contacting simultaneously (with each other) - or you'll have more problems to come. More gear grinding will ensue, eventually resulting in failure to engage (or disengage), and bearing life will be shortened significantly.

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

My apologies about that broken pin. Clearly the geometry of that Foton is different than other brands we've worked on here. Having said that, it's clear that the hack job on the pedal may have radicalized that geometry - maybe even to the extent of compromising that pin. Might wanna consider returning the pedal to something resembling original.

And you still have to resolve the issue of all those malaligned release fingers. The 3 main drive fingers must contact the bearing face simultaneously (with each other), followed precisely by the 3 PTO drive fingers contacting simultaneously (with each other) - or you'll have more problems to come. More gear grinding will ensue, eventually resulting in failure to engage (or disengage), and bearing life will be shortened significantly.

//greg//

I agree with Greg. Glad it was only a broken pin but get those fingers adjusted properly. If you do not have a manual I would at least make them all the same distance for now using the numbers Greg provided earlier as a starting point. It will probably be close enough but the important part is that all the fingers are engaging at the same time for both the PTO and main drive clutch.

Chris

 

[FotonOwner]

Thank you to all the folks who contributed to a solution this issue; particularly Greg, invaluable.

The comments are appreciated