Quarter Sawn Oak

[BrettW]

All I can say is make sure you let him plane them down for you. That is the hardest and most unpleasant part of building anything, and it takes forever with the typical small planers most of us would have. Good luck, lots of good plans on the internet and look in libraries for nice designs. Post a pic when you get it finished or during the process bw

 

[DocHeb]

When you find the right wood, remember to use an aniline stain if you're not finishing it with only a clear finish. The aniline dyes penetrate into the wood, and don't cover up the rays of QSWO the way pigment stains do. This gives the wonderful "ray" pattern so characteristic of QSWO.

 

[Hoeman00]

Another nice QS is pin oak.
My buddy has a Lucas mill and being a swing blade he cuts a lot of QS lumber.
He wants me to build a 24' long set on centers to put the logs between so almost the whole log will make QS lumber, the log will be rotated as boards are cut.
It will have little wedge shapes cut off to square up board.
Around here the QSRO sells for more than cherry or walnut.
Some cherry and maple look good QS just depends on logs.

 

[ges]

Hi.......

Got some questions on rotating the log? Without giving your trade secrets away, /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif how are you planning on rotating the log other than buy hand?

Are you going to lift log, rotate, then set back down? I'm trying to figure a way to rotate with less labor than man handling. Makes a long hard day. Let me know about any ides you might pass on. Thank's George.

 

[beenthere]

Lots of wasted log volume with that procedure, but when the price is right for the product, it will likely pay for itself. And the boards recovered should be perfectly quarter-sawn. Are you saying you are chucking logs between 24 foot centers?

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 24' long set on centers to put the logs between )</font>

/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[dmccarty]

Ok, I looked at the website, what does 4/4 or 8/4 mean? I
have seen the numbers used before but dont know for sure
what the mean. Its the thickness of the wood? What about
the width of the lumber?

Thanks,
Dan

 

[beenthere]

Is a designation for thickness of lumber, that usually does not include construction lumber. Often the lumber is random width and random lengths, again, unlike construction lumber which has standard thickness and width (2x4, 2x8, 2x12), and lengths in 2' multiples.

4/4 = 1 inch
5/4 = 1 1/4 inch
8/4 = 2 inch

Width is usually in inches and could also include fractions of an inch.

 

[dmccarty]

Thanks BeenThere,

My guess that 4/4 was 1 inch and that things where getting
measured in 1/4 inch widths. And 4 1/4s equal an inch. Or
I just got lucky.

My sawmill magazine mentiones this stuff from time to time
so now I'm less confused. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I wonder why they just dont say 1 inch? Or 1 1/4inch? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
There has to be some interesting history on the 4/4 usage.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[beenthere]

The industry has been doing it that way for a long time, and probably it is easier to say "five quarter" than it is to say "one and one quarter". When tallying lumber, such as is done by a grader, the tallyman may just enter a "5" for the 5/4 thickness, or a "4" for one inch, or a "6" for one and one half inch.

You can take the assignment to find out why. Let us know what you find.

 

[MarkV]

Dan, just to add to what Beenthere said, when you look at 5/4 lumber it is 1 1/4" in rough sawed condition. If you were to ask for 5/4 finished lumber at a lumberyard, such as corner boards for butting siding to, it will be 1" thick because it has been surfaced on a planer and joiner. When you are buying hard wood and want it already in finish condition you would ask for S2S or S4S. S2S is surfaced on two sides, one face and one edge, and S4S is surfaced on four sides.

MarkV