3-Point Hitch Query about removing 3-point hitch

[JDgreen227]

This morning I wanted to use my JD 4210 for moving our travel trailer, and I needed to remove the 3 point hitch linkage. Leaving it on the tractor means any turns are almost impossible, as the hitch will hit the trailer's LP tanks.

It takes only a few minutes to remove the various arms, but I cannot remove the outer drilled pins that hold the sway links. The pins will hit the inside of the wheel rims before I can remove the sway links from the outer brackets. Does anyone know how to remove the links without jacking up the rear wheels and loosening the lug bolts? I used a length of electrical wire to keep the links from dragging on the tires, but wonder if they can be removed without loosening the wheels. Thanks.

 

[SteveH_CT]

I honestly can't picture what you mean specifically - but I know the lower links you're referring to. On my 4310 they are only held in place with a small connector - the connector is kept there by a circular metal ring that turns out of the connector's hole (like getting a key off of a key ring) . Once that is off the link pops right out. Generally removing the 3pt links should only take minutes.

If this doesn't help can you submit a picture of what you're referring to?

 

[gunmaker]

There is an adapter made, which can be hooked up to your 3pt hitch, and then allows you to insert your 2 inch tow-bar. Makes hooking up to move the trailer about much simpler, and quicker. There are several available at Northern Tools(.com) I plan to use this method to move about my airstream, without having to disassemble the 3pt to use the drawbar. Just a thought.

 

[JDgreen227]

Steve, thanks, you interpreted my query correctly. Removing that circular clip frees the drilled pin that holds on the sway link, but before it will go the last quarter inch I need to free the link, the head of the pin contacts the inner wheel rim. I had the same type of problem removing one of the drilled pins/circular clip that held on the back of my 7-Iron deck, and it was almost impossible to loosen...the PTO shaft was new and didn't have enough wiggle room to get the pin out the last quarter inch, and the shaft could not be removed until I got the pin out.

Soundguy called my problem with the deck "interference fit" if I recall correctly.

As I rarely use the tractor to spot our trailer around our lot, I can't justify buying the 3 point adapter...our TT has an 800 pound tongue weight and I shorten the drawbar as much as possible to prevent undue leverage when moving the trailer with the JD. Although the manual lists a maximum of 562 pounds vertical load for the drawbar, my salesguy assured me that 800 was safe as long as I kept the speed down.

Thanks for your suggestions and input.

 

[SteveH_CT]

That's interesting that the connector hits your wheel. I believe the 4210 and 4310 and almost identical, perhaps my wheels are mounted further out. Someone more knowledgeable than me (Mike - hint hint) might have a better suggestion - heres' two ideas

- Jack up the rear and to get the wheels to drop enought to get out of the way of removing the pin connector???
- Bolt cutters - and insert the (new) connector in the reverse direction so as to slide towards the center of the tractor rather than to the outside.