Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics)

   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #11  
ymurf said:
You guys are a great help.I hope i am not asking to many questions but i have another. I am going to get my fluids tomorrow and am having a heck of a time now,Thought i had it figured out but now i need you guys advice.On this link it says to put the same hydraulic fluid in the tranny and the lift.Service Bulletin from Tractor Outlet Jinma Tractors Loaders Backhoes
But i see allot of posts on here to run different oils in the tranny and lift?I need some help here before i buy the wrong stuff.

Gear oil in the transmission and differential/axle cases(yelow metal friendly, low foam). Since you didn't fill out your profile telling us where you are at, I can only make a guess as to weight. 80W90 is typical, but you may want something heavier for a warmer climate.

Probably AW32 Hydraulic oil in the hydraulc resovoir/3PH lift box, but again this can be determined by your local climate. If you go to your local Napa, they will probably have 5 gallon pails of what is used in the area for hydraulic oil.
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #12  
I would run these fluids. I have the same Farm Pro 2425, 2003, just like yours.

Oil 15W40
Hydro AW32
Injector Pump SAE30 motor oil. Others run compressor oil or the same 15W40
Front axle and tranny 80W90 Gear Oil

Chris
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #13  
The pics in the link I sent only show one drain for the tranny but there is actually 3. The one back by the draw bar, one on the output for the front drive shaft, and one just above the front drive shaft for the creeper gear box. When you refill the tranny let it sit over night after putting oil in. The reason is it has to pass through some bearings to get to the creeper gear box. So what I am saying is fill it to the proper level and let is sit. The next day it will be low so you will have to refill it again to the level desired after the oil has settled. The other option is to take the cover off the creeper and pour some oil directly in.

Your front axle also has 3 drains. One on the center diff and one on each final drive out by the wheels. They are small square headed plugs, maybe 1/4 inch. Be careful not to twist off.

If you have questions PM me and I will try to help. By the way, where do you live. This will help us know what fluids to run.


Chris
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics)
  • Thread Starter
#14  
RonMar said:
Gear oil in the transmission and differential/axle cases(yelow metal friendly, low foam). Since you didn't fill out your profile telling us where you are at, I can only make a guess as to weight. 80W90 is typical, but you may want something heavier for a warmer climate.

Probably AW32 Hydraulic oil in the hydraulc resovoir/3PH lift box, but again this can be determined by your local climate. If you go to your local Napa, they will probably have 5 gallon pails of what is used in the area for hydraulic oil.
I am sorry.I am in Missouri.
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #15  
Missouri, I would run what we told you to put in it.

Chris
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics)
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Diamondpilot said:
I would run these fluids. I have the same Farm Pro 2425, 2003, just like yours.

Oil 15W40
Hydro AW32
Injector Pump SAE30 motor oil. Others run compressor oil or the same 15W40
Front axle and tranny 80W90 Gear Oil

Chris
Thanks allot guys.I really do appreciate the info.If you have the same tractor can you please tell me how much of each i will need and ill get it all tomorrow?Thanks again.
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #17  
ymurf said:
Thats the same page i read,It says to use the same hydraulic oil in the transmission that you put in the lift.I see allot of other posts on here to use a 90w gear oil or something like that in the transmission and hydraulic oil in the lift.Which is best or does it matter?
I see why you're confused. The Tractor Outlet guidelines are generally useful, but their statement "...transmission and hydraulic system use the same oil. Choose a quality hydraulic oil such as #303 from New Holland " is not only incorrect, it's inconsistent with what's actually printed in the owner's manual and contrary to what's been preached on these Chinese tractor forums for years.

That is; use gear oil for gears, hydraulic fluid for hydraulics, diesel engine oil for the engine and injector pump (I personally prefer compressor oil for the injector pump) and SCA-type antifreeze for the cooling system.

//greg//
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #18  
If you haven't already seen this, here is a nice pictorial on how to do this service in a Jinma model with a smaller engine, but pretty much everything is the same as yours. The Jinma 100 Hr. Service

Good luck!

G
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #19  
Here is some more help. I looked up the filter numbers I use on my 2003 Jinma 254.

Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503

I get mine at advanced. It usually takes them a day to order in the air and fuel filter so get a extra of each to have one on the shelf.

The oil filter is in stock at all times.

You can go anywhere withe these numbers like Napa or Carquest and have them crossed over to other brands.

Chris
 
   / Questins about fluid changes on farm pro 2425(pics) #20  
Venting FO-system:
Is done by operating the thumb pump and loosening the vent screw located on the side of the injector pump (the screw with the ring).
When you see no more bubbles from the vent screw, retighten screw and pump plunger. Then try to start the engine. You may experience a few misfires. If the engine continues to misfire or refuse to start, you have to bleed the hardlines at the injectors.

Priming Hydraulic pump:
May not be necessary, but if.
Fill the reservoir. Loosen suction line at the pump. Pressurerize reservoir with a blow gun connected to a compressor, until you see oil flowing from suction line at pump. You pressureize by blocking one of the vent holes in the filler-/vent cap with a finger, and blowing with the gun into the other hole.
Then retighten suction line, start engine and work hydraulics.

Lube oils:
Engine oil: The manual prescribes SAE30 or SAE40 in summer, and SAE 10W20 in winter. You can use 10W30, 10W40, 15W40. I use 10W30 or 10W40 all year. Approval: API CC or higher (CD or CE etc.)
Gear boxes: Gearoil, 80W or 85W Approval GL-4 or GL-5. I use 80W90 GL-4 for frontaxle and transmission.
You can use dual purpose oil for transmission, hydraulics, and engine. Just note the above mentioned approvals and grades. I do not use dual purpose, because I think those are too light for the rough transmissions.

Hydraulic:
I use ISO VG 46.
I think the manual prescribes VG 68 or VG 100, but I'm affraid such viscous oil can cause cavitation problems in the climate I'm in.

Govenor:
Engine oil, hydraulic fluid, compressor oil, whatever.

Regarding API approvals:
Example Shell Harvella T 10W30 API CF-4/CF/SF, API GL-4.
CF-4/CF is the Diesel engine approval. This is indicated by the first letter "C"
SF is the gasoline engine approval, indicated by "S"
GL is the Gear Lube approval.

/SC
 

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