Question about Chainsaw blades

[daschluck]

Thanks for all the advice. End of story is I bought new bar and chain and all is working well. So I will pitch the chains, and keep the old bar for a backup if I ever need it. Thanks again.

 

[turnkey4099]

Not to mention wear and tear on sprockets.

$18???!!! That price hasn't been seen in at least 10 years. Even watching sales youw ill be lucky at $20+.My lasst purchase was this spring at $22 ea, 2 loops.

Chains stretch from use. Standard wear will require removing one drive link at little over half the tooth life and it does no harm to the saw. Been 2 years since I had a link removed (I do 10 plus cords years, run three saws) but I don't recall it costing anywhere near $10.

As to his chains. The one that was on the saw "smoking hot" should be thrown away, the others will be ok with one link removed.

Harry K

 

[LD1]

Prices I guess depend on where you go. There are two stihl dealers around me. For 3/8 stihl full-chisel chain, the one dealer charges $1 per inch of bar. IE: 18" bar...$18 20" bar...$20

The other one is a tad less because it was always ~$21 for a 24" loop.

And baileys online also sells loops for well under $1 per inch of bar. Their woodland pro stuff aint too bad, but it is no stihl chain. Husqvarna Chainsaws, Outdoor Power Equipment and Tree Care Supplies from Bailey's 30rc&catID=11810

 

[jonyyuma]

If i read this right, the bottom of the bar is sharp,TRUE.. But I dress it down with a file???Then i turn the bar over with each chain that i replace or sharpen..SO, None of you will turn your roller-tipped round end bars over to use ..? I have Both a homelite trim saw and a Stihl 028 woodboss..Curious to answers..

 

[LD1]

Sometimes I turn mine over, but most of the time not. Maybe its the bars I run, or the oil I use, but I find that my bars dont wear much at all. I just keep the rails dressed and flat with a file like you mention, only what I normakky do is clamp the file in the vice down low in the jaws, and drag the bar across it keeping it tight to one of the jaws to keep everything square.

A pedistal mount belt sander does well also. About the only time though I seem to have to file a bar is off of saws I have bought used or on ebay. Not sure why.

 

[Car Doc]

I am with the guys that say junk the chains and the bar and watch the oil splatter occasionally between cuts stop and rev it a time or 2 before making the cut to see shes oiling.

The hub or clutch drum if hub is attached to it permanently will wear something terrible with a stretched chain is my main reasoning. I use Baileys full chisel 3/8 on all my saws and it is just fine and affordable I run all Husky's w/.050. fwtw

 

[jonyyuma]

Well ,My stihl still has the OEM powerbar, but I have a Oregon bar to use on it too..I did not use Bar-oil all the time, so maybe there is some extra wear..My self i blame some of it on auto oiller.. I like the pump on the side of old saws so I could give it an extra pump when in a hot cut.. Alass, they took them off and only automatic on these saws. I don't burn wood for heat now,, so. The saws are only used little..

 

[Car Doc]

Well ,My stihl still has the OEM powerbar, but I have a Oregon bar to use on it too..I did not use Bar-oil all the time, so maybe there is some extra wear..My self i blame some of it on auto oiller.. I like the pump on the side of old saws so I could give it an extra pump when in a hot cut.. Alass, they took them off and only automatic on these saws. I don't burn wood for heat now,, so. The saws are only used little..

This isn't my thread just butt'n in sorry but I remember the old Mac's and Homey's etc with the oiler button also. I liked them the best wish we still had them on them but my Husky's have never once gave me fits even the few home owner saws I have owned so knock on wood been a good thing so far?!

I am one of those guys that can run a bar forever also some cant but I get away with it somehow I like lots of oil that may be how and I grease the nose roller a lot fwtw. I also flip mine every time and run sharp chains always I never leave home w/o at least 3 sharp chains for each saw.

 

[jonyyuma]

This isn't my thread just butt'n in sorry but I remember the old Mac's and Homey's etc with the oiler button also. I liked them the best wish we still had them on them but my Husky's have never once gave me fits even the few home owner saws I have owned so knock on wood been a good thing so far?!

I am one of those guys that can run a bar forever also some cant but I get away with it somehow I like lots of oil that may be how and I grease the nose roller a lot fwtw. I also flip mine every time and run sharp chains always I never leave home w/o at least 3 sharp chains for each saw.

Sounds good, Likewise on spare chains and i do dress the chains with a file...If you don't pinch a bar , why not use it?

 

[Car Doc]

Sounds good, Likewise on spare chains and i do dress the chains with a file...If you don't pinch a bar , why not use it?

As far as what the other guy was saying or what? If so if it was heated too much it will soften it and wear so much adjusting chains will be an every hour thing or sooner and then at some point out of bar adjustment is what I have found him too apparently. That's an extreme example and I spose not a rule but I guess it would be one of those things I might mark the bar as questionable and use hard to say...bars are $50 and up and so on I dont like running a chain at the end of my adjustment all the time.