Question about grinding rebar

   / Question about grinding rebar #1  

AmericanTractorDriver

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Jul 6, 2012
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Hello,

Sorry if this is slightly off-topic, but I think it's the closest area?

Today I found someone selling some scrap (straight, but has become rusty) 3/8" rebar for about $0.15/ft. I cut the 10' lengths into (3) 40" lengths to use as posts to support chicken wire around some raised beds. Cutting went well with the angle grinder... about 15 seconds a cut. next time I'll use a very thin wheel which hopefully will speed up the cut.

As to grinding points on the stakes... I just did a basic 45* cone, and even that took a long time. I am using a standard 4.5" grinding wheel. Is there any faster method (for a small run) or a better wheel to use? Compared to sharpening lawn mower blades, etc., it seems like this rebar is taking forever to grind.

I'm going to try to hit them with the wire brush quickly, and then paint. Just don't want to end up spending 5 minutes on every stake!

Thanks!
 
   / Question about grinding rebar #2  
I have made stake-like things out of rebar before. This may be too obvious to even mention, but instead of grinding a point, I just cut them off at 45-degree angles, to make a point, no further grinding required.

EDIT: And I second your opinion that a thinner wheel is better. People have also told me they got very good results using a fine-toothed metal blade in a reciprocating saw, but I've never tried that myself.
 
   / Question about grinding rebar #3  
Instead of cutting at 90 degrees put a 45 on it

Looks like this | /. /. |

Two stakes
 
   / Question about grinding rebar
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I have made stake-like things out of rebar before. This may be too obvious to even mention, but instead of grinding a point, I just cut them off at 45-degree angles, to make a point, no further grinding required.

EDIT: And I second your opinion that a thinner wheel is better. People have also told me they got very good results using a fine-toothed metal blade in a reciprocating saw, but I've never tried that myself.

As to the angle - it may depend on the soil conditions - but do the posts not want to drive in at an angle as the point drives through the dirt? Or - if that does happen - maybe making two cuts (a "V" nose) would eliminate any potential problems. Thanks for the idea, now I'm glad I asked!

Thanks
 
   / Question about grinding rebar #6  
For 3/8 bar does it nees a point, hard soil?......Mike
 
   / Question about grinding rebar #7  
I would agree you usually don't need a point on 3/8 rebar, but if you do, just make the 45 degree cut with a cut off wheel.

James K0UA
 
   / Question about grinding rebar #8  
I use 3/8 rebar to tie tomatoes..After a couple years---what points?? they drive fine with 2 lb ball head hammer?.
 
   / Question about grinding rebar #9  
I use 3/8 rebar to tie tomatoes..After a couple years---what points?? they drive fine with 2 lb ball head hammer?.
I also use three 3/8" sticks of rebar per tomato cage for extra support. No points necessary. The only time I have put points on 3/8"x12" rebar was to spike them through pre drilled fence end posts and into the horizontal "H" brace post.
 

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   / Question about grinding rebar
  • Thread Starter
#10  
I use 3/8 rebar to tie tomatoes..After a couple years---what points??

What do you mean 'what points?'

I am not a big fan of tomato cages but have contemplated using a single pole of 1/2" rebar about 6' tall at each plant for some structure to tie the tomatoes to.
 

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