Question about using a stabilizer?
- Thread starter JD TRACTOR MAN
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Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
Diesel seems to be perfectly good after 10+ years, if stored in a a reasonably well sealed tank/container.
The main thing is to keep water out of the fuel, since water allows bacteria (what people generally call algae instead) to be able to grow in the tank.
And if needing to use the fuel in a cold climate, some sort of anti-gel might be needed.
I've just started putting E0 in my small engines. Walmart about 30 minutes away carries 87 octane E0. I purchase 10 gallons at a time when I'm up that way.
For the 2 cycle engines, I go to another station that sells 91 octane E0 for a stupid $ per gallon. The chansaws/blowers don't go through as much so it lasts a lot longer.
I honestly would be surprised if any of the 'stabilizers' actually do much. I don't think they'll hurt anything, but not sure they are worth the money.
That said, I do add Killem biocide to my diesel storage tank. Algae is not something you want to battle.
For the 2 cycle engines, I go to another station that sells 91 octane E0 for a stupid $ per gallon. The chansaws/blowers don't go through as much so it lasts a lot longer.
I honestly would be surprised if any of the 'stabilizers' actually do much. I don't think they'll hurt anything, but not sure they are worth the money.
That said, I do add Killem biocide to my diesel storage tank. Algae is not something you want to battle.
Bentrim
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2020
- Messages
- 297
- Location
- York County, Pennsylvania
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 245, Massey Ferguson 14 Allis Chalmers G
What I have been taught at manufacturers update school.
Sta-bil works by forming a scum on top of the fuel. If the fuel is moved or shaken --- it was never explained if that scum reforms.. The scum is to prevent oxygen from getting to the fuel. Using Marine Sta-bil is advised in very humid areas. It can deal with humidity better than regular Sta-bil.
What I learned from working on equipment.
Keep all stored fuels tightly capped in a cool dark place, out of air movement.
In my area E-10 has a shelf life of 30 days, Any stabilizer helps but the length of time varies and is never what the label says.
The newer the engine the less likely they can tolerate old fuel.
Two strokers should always use fresh fuel. Never stored fuel 30 days or more. -- High compression high speed, small passages in the carburetor.
You learn what phase separation is only once. -- You don't want to replace that expensive carburetor more than once!
Shake, shake, and shake the container before filling a fuel tank. -- Keep the additives in suspension, also helps keeps water suspended, so the last you pour isn't all water.
Non ethanol gasoline though more expensive equals less problems.
Sta-bil works by forming a scum on top of the fuel. If the fuel is moved or shaken --- it was never explained if that scum reforms.. The scum is to prevent oxygen from getting to the fuel. Using Marine Sta-bil is advised in very humid areas. It can deal with humidity better than regular Sta-bil.
What I learned from working on equipment.
Keep all stored fuels tightly capped in a cool dark place, out of air movement.
In my area E-10 has a shelf life of 30 days, Any stabilizer helps but the length of time varies and is never what the label says.
The newer the engine the less likely they can tolerate old fuel.
Two strokers should always use fresh fuel. Never stored fuel 30 days or more. -- High compression high speed, small passages in the carburetor.
You learn what phase separation is only once. -- You don't want to replace that expensive carburetor more than once!
Shake, shake, and shake the container before filling a fuel tank. -- Keep the additives in suspension, also helps keeps water suspended, so the last you pour isn't all water.
Non ethanol gasoline though more expensive equals less problems.
Stabil Marine is about as good as the other premium names for me and easier to find. Mixing rate is in the label. For 2 cycle, I use premium synthetic oil mix which already has fuel stabilizer
in it. (Stihl premium synthetic or Red Armor(Echo)).
Mixing rate is on the label. I can start 2 cycle or 4 cycle on 2 year old fuel. Would not expect much after that time. Remember stabilizers can decline in storage, too. I would not use anything out of a bottle more than two years old.
Hard starting on old gasoline is because the volatile component has evaporated out of the mix. (This is beside the varnish formation which happens with time). I don't throw away old gas, just mix 50/50 with new. Fuel with ethanol goes bad fast. I have had problems after 60 days.
Same thing on cold starting. if you had a cold engine and it does not start after about 15 seconds, stop cranking and wait a minute or two and crank again. Fuel vapor will have evaporated and be there to start. If you just keep cranking cold, the fuel liquid will coat the plug.
in it. (Stihl premium synthetic or Red Armor(Echo)).
Mixing rate is on the label. I can start 2 cycle or 4 cycle on 2 year old fuel. Would not expect much after that time. Remember stabilizers can decline in storage, too. I would not use anything out of a bottle more than two years old.
Hard starting on old gasoline is because the volatile component has evaporated out of the mix. (This is beside the varnish formation which happens with time). I don't throw away old gas, just mix 50/50 with new. Fuel with ethanol goes bad fast. I have had problems after 60 days.
Same thing on cold starting. if you had a cold engine and it does not start after about 15 seconds, stop cranking and wait a minute or two and crank again. Fuel vapor will have evaporated and be there to start. If you just keep cranking cold, the fuel liquid will coat the plug.
Too many Kubotas
Veteran Member
When making about 100 gallons of stale gas usable again, it was well worth the cost of a few ounces of Star Tron, I think.
MarblemountLane
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2007
- Messages
- 59
- Location
- Skagit Valley, Washington
- Tractor
- Massey Ferguson 204 circa 1959
I have always viewed StaBil as “one season” treatment. I’ve seen gas treated with PRI-G siphoned from a motorhome after 8 years, put in a car and run fine - but this was early 2000s so probably no alcohol.
I buy alcohol free premium for power equipment, and as much as possible for our vehicles. Funny WinterDeere mentioned a splitter; I ended up repairing the carburetor on my splitter. The little ring that is the seat for the float valve had swelled. So yes, unless it’s just going to sit for a day or two, we shut off fuel and run it dry. Same for our generators.
Experience leads me to believe two cycle oil includes stabilizer. But best practice for chainsaw storage is fuel tank dry, oil tank freshly filled. A few years ago, I had a gal who worked on saws for a living tell me that with today’s gasohol, if you’ve mixed fuel and the can is two months old, throw it away and mix new. Over 90% of saw engine problems she saw were due to fuel.
I’m sure ethanol free lasts longer in the cans. But if the dated label on the can says it’s older than I like, I’ll often put it into my low compression 1959 Massey Ferguson and let it mix with the gas there.
it is possible to separate the alcohol, if you need small amounts of alcohol free and can’t buy it. But it’s a chore. A friend with many older machines (his rag washing machine is a 1915 Maytag with kick start gas engine) sometimes buys avgas for a machine that will be sitting for a while - but he pays around $10 a gallon at the local airport.
I buy alcohol free premium for power equipment, and as much as possible for our vehicles. Funny WinterDeere mentioned a splitter; I ended up repairing the carburetor on my splitter. The little ring that is the seat for the float valve had swelled. So yes, unless it’s just going to sit for a day or two, we shut off fuel and run it dry. Same for our generators.
Experience leads me to believe two cycle oil includes stabilizer. But best practice for chainsaw storage is fuel tank dry, oil tank freshly filled. A few years ago, I had a gal who worked on saws for a living tell me that with today’s gasohol, if you’ve mixed fuel and the can is two months old, throw it away and mix new. Over 90% of saw engine problems she saw were due to fuel.
I’m sure ethanol free lasts longer in the cans. But if the dated label on the can says it’s older than I like, I’ll often put it into my low compression 1959 Massey Ferguson and let it mix with the gas there.
it is possible to separate the alcohol, if you need small amounts of alcohol free and can’t buy it. But it’s a chore. A friend with many older machines (his rag washing machine is a 1915 Maytag with kick start gas engine) sometimes buys avgas for a machine that will be sitting for a while - but he pays around $10 a gallon at the local airport.
dodge man
Super Star Member
They also make a Long term storage” version of Stabil. It looks like the regular stuff.
A long story as to why I was using it but a push mower with a 4hp Briggs on it. The fuel in it was old and I filled it up from a 2 gallon can that was about 80% empty. This was probably E10 gas and a year old. A 4 hp Briggs is probably a low compression engine but you could clearly hear the engine knocking, pre ignition. It still ran but lost its octane and ran badly. Fresh fuel fixed it.
A long story as to why I was using it but a push mower with a 4hp Briggs on it. The fuel in it was old and I filled it up from a 2 gallon can that was about 80% empty. This was probably E10 gas and a year old. A 4 hp Briggs is probably a low compression engine but you could clearly hear the engine knocking, pre ignition. It still ran but lost its octane and ran badly. Fresh fuel fixed it.
I add it after but if I planned better, I’d take it with me to the gas station and add it there. Now that you mentioned it, I’m going to keep a bottle in my truck.
Shady oak
Bronze Member
I use Sea Foam, about an ounce to a gallon and make sure that the machine is run long enough so it gets mixed and into the carb. Smaller stuff, one cylinder types I try and use non ethanol gas at least at the end of the season, and then run the carb dry. Bigger stuff like 20 horse tractors I simply leave the 10% E in it and add some Sea Foam. Have never had a carb of anything including chain saws etc in over 20 yrs.
