Question on DK45SE HST 50-hour Service

[taw1126]

All-
I'm still pretty far away from the 50-hour service (only have 1 weekend/10 hours so far) but wanted to run something the dealer told me by existing Kioti owners.

When I picked up the tractor I was told to change engine oil & filter at 50 hours, as well as both hydraulic system filters (no other service to transmission/hydraulic system). I was also told that I "would probably never need to change front axle oil".

Looking at the Kioti manual last night it's pretty clear that the manufacturer recommends changing engine oil, hydraulic fluid, front axle, and all filters at 50 hours (with 4 filters and 15+ gallons of lube this looks to be a pretty lengthy job, but probably cheap insurance in the long term).

Obviously I trust Kioti's recommendations over the dealer, but I was hoping others would be willing to share what service they performed at the 50-hour mark.

Thanks,
Trey

 

[grm61]

Lots of threads on this...I did engine oil and filters, and Hyd oil and filters at 50, then engine again at the next 50.
I got lots of crap out of the hyd fluid, run it around good before you drain it, to get things stirred up good and suspended in the oil.

Some guys don't do the hydro..I am glad I did...do a search, all kind of threads on this.

 

[tulenutn2o]

I follow the manual pretty much to the t. Just look at it this way, that tractor is gonna be your best friend for a long time, take care of it and it will not let you down. My advice, never scrimp on maintenance.

 

[VictorW]

I did everything at 50 hours like the manual advised and continued on with the filters and oils at the later hour intervals. Others will have different opinions as has been discussed in previous posts. My hydro oil had metal dust and small chips in it which I guess the filters should catch and not be passed through the system. Front axle oil was pretty much clean but you don't know that until it's draining. I figured cheap insurance, knew what was in there along with learning the tractor, and if something did happen under warranty, I could show that I followed Kioti's service schedule.

 

[taw1126]

Thanks all. Didn't realize this was a common issue so didn't think to search (but I will). I maintain my trucks at or before recommended intervals (and tend to be rewarded with long life & few problems) and the Kioti will be treated the same. But I'm surprised the dealer recommended something different than the factory maintenance schedule.

 

[k0ua]

I did the whole banana at 50 hours, and as others have stated many don't change their hydraulic fluid until 400 hours. There is a conflict between the owners and service manuals is one reason for the two different approaches to this. I would disregard the dealers advice on not changing the front axle fluid. I would change it at the 50 hours, and did just that. Don't forget that sometimes manufactures do not clean out the machining swarf out of castings all that well, and there is NO filtration in the front axle at all, so any particle in there are just bouncing around in the fluid. Be prepared for difficulty getting that stinking hydraulic filter off. That's the one by the right rear tire. I recommend a chain wrench. I had a heck of a time getting it off the first time as does everyone. They have a special gorilla tighten that one up. I didn't have any problems with the engine oil or hydrostatic filters.

If you change your main sump hydraulic fluid be sure to get the two drains by the rear tires to drain the final drives also as well as the large 32mm main drain plug.
Of course you will not need to worry about how to prevent fluid loss when you change the filters if you choose this option. BUT if you choose to not drain the main sump and just change the filters, you will need a strategy to not lose fluid while changing the hydraulic filter. You know, the one the gorilla put on by the right rear tire. There are 3 strategy's, I will outline here.

1: the vacuum cleaner to the fill port. This sucks air in when you loosen the hydraulic filter and helps prevent oil loss out the filter ports as air is going in the filter ports so oil cannot get out.
2: My own idea, which worked perfectly at the last filter only change of screwing a no. 8 machine screw into the filler/vent crook hole. this prevents air from entering the top of the "tank" and if air cannot get in to the top of the tank, then oil cannot escape out the bottom of the filter ports, or very little oil can get out. I lost about 2 ounces of oil. DO NOT forget to remove this screw, if you don't it will blow the dipstick out of its hole when you lower the lift cylinders. Don't ask how I know this.

3: Just be darn quick in getting the old filter off and getting the new filter screwed on.. This is what most mechanics use, because they don't care that it loses about a gallon of fluid, they just top it off and charge you for the fluid.

Good luck in whatever you decide.

 

[k0ua]

Here is a picture of the fill port stopper/ crooked air vent plug that I stopped up with a no. 8 machine screw. It is on the back of the tractor .

 

[rmorey]

Here is a picture of the fill port stopper/ crooked air vent plug that I stopped up with a no. 8 machine screw. It is on the back of the tractor .

View attachment 384017

That James is always "screwing" with something! :laughing:

 

[rmorey]

Here is a picture of the fill port stopper/ crooked air vent plug that I stopped up with a no. 8 machine screw. It is on the back of the tractor .

View attachment 384017

That James is always "screwing" with something! :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

That James is always "screwing" with something! :laughing:

Always searching for a better way to "skin the cat"

This method of blocking off the air vent beats the heck out of just trying to change the filter really quick, and the one time I tried the vacuum cleaner trick, it worked but when the air bubbles come up thru the tank and burst, you get the oil spray sucked up into the vacuum cleaner, which yuk's it up.

 

[kco]

For changing filters I run one side of my DK35 up on two 6" x 8" blocks to tilt the tractor, first on the right for the hydraulic filter, then the left for the HST filter. No oil comes out after the initial bit spilled from the filters.

I changed my hydraulic oil after the initial 53 hours. However, on my dealer's recommendation I did the next hydraulic oil change at 709 hours (i.e. about 650 hrs after the initial change). The manual recommends a 400 hr interval for hydraulic oil changes but my dealer said around 800 hrs was more appropriate for my use. Later he said perhaps 600 hrs. So I did it when convenient (in the summer) at a 650 hr interval. The used oil did not look different than the new oil. This recommendation may be meant only for my relatively light usage conditions. I don't have a backhoe or other hydraulic equipment and don't have a lot of continuous heavy dragging work. So I'm not recommending my oil change interval is appropriate for others.

I found metal bits on the magnetic drain plug during both oil changes. I recall several on the first change and one or two on the second.

Addition to original post since it has not yet been mentioned......

You need a good filter wrench for the first oil change. The filters are very tight. A strap wrench that fits on a 1/2" ratchet worked for me but I twisted it like a pretzel helping my neighbour with his CK's 50 hour service. I got a Channel Lock 12" filter pliers:

https://www.channellock.com/212-Oil-Filter-PVC-Plier.aspx

and highly recommend them. They fit all the filters on my DK35 from the small diameter HST to large diameter hydraulic.

 

[gsholz]

Agree. The factory paints over the filter base so the filters are "glued" on. You'll need the heaviest truck filter wrench you can find or cut the paint at the filter base with a razor blade.

I changed the hydraulic fluid at 50 hours and found 5-6 metal slivers on the magnetic drain plug as well. Probably from shifting through the HST range. Also did the front axle. Since you have to buy three 5 gallon pails of UTF you'll have enough left over to do the front axle.

The manual is confusing/not up to date. For instance, I have a sight glass on the front axle that is not mentioned. I don't have the grease nipples they show on the hydraulic steering cylinder.

 

[jrclark]

I just changed the hydraulic filter in my DS3510 last weekend. It took every ounce of strength in my hands to get that thing off in that tight spot behind the tire. Using a junk wrench didn't help, the four letter words I was spewing didn't either. There were also plenty of metal flecks in the fluid that poured out of the filter.

 

[sdef]

The manual is confusing concerning the 50 hour check and oil/filter changing. I changed all oils and filters as they are relatively inexpensive maintenance insurance.

The hydraulic filter was a ridiculous, very trying event spread out over several attempts and so many weeks. Due to everything I had read on TBN about this filter, I had purchased two high quality strap wrenches, of different types and made up cheater bars/pipes. None of these worked as the strap would eventually slip on one wrench and the other had just enough play in it to be of little use. I also tried to find a metal filter "socket" that I could get a ratchet and breaker bar onto, to no avail. This search involved the typical local auto parts places and a pro tool supplier that delivers by truck and an Internet search. I was trying my best not to damage the filter enough to the point I would have to cut the filter off, 35 miles from home with no A.C. power and then no ability to move the tractor under its own power. I finally ordered a Crescent CW15 15-Inch Chain Wrench, which gripped well but I did not have enough leverage. I finally called a much younger, much larger, much stronger friend who is a certified, ex-military mechanic. He used the chain wrench and all of his strength and it finally broke loose after his third and probably final attempt. I believe he may also have used a cheater pipe on the end on the wrench handle, but do not recall for sure; I was just so happy the darn filter came off.

By the way, my filters did not appear to be painted on. And to make sure this should not be an issue, I took a razor blade and cut around the filter gasket area before trying to remove it.

I also test my oils at Blackstone Labs. The hydraulic fluid came back with a very clean report, even though the magnetic plugs had a lot of shaving on them- coated, actually and piled high like a mountain. The engine oil came back with very high levels of lead, ~ 700% higher than normal indicating a potential bearing problem. My tractor is running fine and has since new. I just changed the engine oil and filter at 100 hours and will send in another sample next week.

 

[kco]

It is crazy how tight the filters are. As mentioned earlier, I twisted the shaft on my 1/2" ratchet mounted strap wrench trying to remove my neighbour's CK hydraulic filter although it did work for my DK filters a few years earlier.

My dealer has complained to Kioti about the tight filters but nothing has happened. When I told him about helping my neighbour remove the factory filters he said that his dealership should loosen and re-tighten the filters as part of the dealer prep. I'll mention it again to see if they will start doing that.

 

[k0ua]

It is crazy how tight the filters are. As mentioned earlier, I twisted the shaft on my 1/2" ratchet mounted strap wrench trying to remove my neighbour's CK hydraulic filter although it did work for my DK filters a few years earlier.

My dealer has complained to Kioti about the tight filters but nothing has happened. When I told him about helping my neighbour remove the factory filters he said that his dealership should loosen and re-tighten the filters as part of the dealer prep. I'll mention it again to see if they will start doing that.

I got mine loose by drilling a hole through it and driving a piece of 5/8 all thread about 3 foot long through it and grunting. If the dealer uses my method, well, I don't think it is going to work out so well.

 

[kco]

I got mine loose by drilling a hole through it and driving a piece of 5/8 all thread about 3 foot long through it and grunting. If the dealer uses my method, well, I don't think it is going to work out so well.

Agreed! But it does not seem like good customer service to deliver the tractors with such a problem. My dealer did say they at times use your method of driving a bar through the filter when removing a factory filter. If they loosened and reinstalled the filter before delivery it would save trouble for unsuspecting customers. I was very grateful for being forewarned about it by postings on TBN. And my neighbour was no doubt happy I let him know for his CK's first service.

If the dealer wrecked and replaced a filter with a pre-delivery reinstall perhaps they could charge it to warranty. That might make Kioti change how they install them at the factory.

I do recommend the Channellock filter pliers. It was able to remove my neighbour's filter that broke my strap wrench and is handy for future filter changes and other jobs.

 

[murphy1244]

That and fix the throttle handle being to hard to move..

 

[KiotiKowboy]

I broke 2 metal strap filter wrenches before I listened to the advice that has been repeated in here ... over and over again My 3rd filter wrench was a chain wrench. It was still quite a workout - but - it worked! I wasted the better part of 2 days getting that stupid filter off.

 

[k0ua]

I broke 2 metal strap filter wrenches before I listened to the advice that has been repeated in here ... over and over again My 3rd filter wrench was a chain wrench. It was still quite a workout - but - it worked! I wasted the better part of 2 days getting that stupid filter off.

I bought a chain wrench, AFTER I got the filter off with the drill a hole and pound in the 5/8 all thread for a lever thing. I figured I should have had one all along. It would have saved me a lot of time and grief.