Question on drill bits??

[Farwell]

Dave,
I use a lot of cutting or threading oil so I buy it by the gallon at Ace Hardware or NAPA auto parts store. I use one of the tractor squirt oil cans or a plastic bottle that has a top with a small spigot on it that will close to apply the oil. I have them all over the place. I also use cutting oil on my hacksaw blades when cutting metal.
Farwell

 

[Farwell]

Ron,
I forgot about Tap Magic. I have never used it but have read that it is very good.
I always have cutting oil around for my tool room lathe and mill so that is what I use for drilling as well.
Farwell

 

[zeuspaul]

I used to drill a lot of stainless. Cobalt drill bits went through it like butter when other bits just sat there. Now I only buy cobalt drill bits for all of my metal drilling needs and also use them on wood. They cost a lot more but last a lot lot longer and save a lot of time.

Zeuspaul

 

[5030]

Ron:

I have gobs of drills around, High speed, TiN coated Steam coated, Aluminum Nitride coated jobber length, long shank and Micro grain tungsten carbide. The Malfords, the Cbn drills will drill armor plate and glass annd are really meant for drilling hardened dies for reclimation. I tend to use a set of cheap Chinese jobber length standard helix twist drills for 90% of what I drill. I used to have a Drill Doctor but gave it away long ago. I much prefer off hand sharpening and relieving the points on a bench grinder. Once you learn how to offhand sharpen sharpening outfits like the Darex Drill Doctor become useless. I do have a Darex end mill sharpener. You are right, most bench drill presses won't turn the slower RPM's necessary for drilling over 1/2". For drilling over 1/2" or using an annular cutter, the vertical mill is the way to go. I have lots of Tap Magic too. Enco sells it for less than Production Tool.

 

[Hib]

Coolant, coolant and more coolant plus low RPM's, slow feed and you should be able to drill all the holes you'll ever want. Depending on where your drill press sits, you are better off to run water from a garden hose on your work rather than drilling dry. Most manufacturers use a pump recirculating the same coolant (water) with only about a 5% soluble oil mix. The oil is to keep parts and machinery from rusting more than anything. Of course oil is a good thing, but if the material has been hardened, ya better get the torch and save your bits.

 

[cmuncy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I used to drill a lot of stainless. Cobalt drill bits went through it like butter when other bits just sat there. Now I only buy cobalt drill bits for all of my metal drilling needs and also use them on wood. They cost a lot more but last a lot lot longer and save a lot of time.

Zeuspaul )</font>

I second the sue of Cobalt drill bits.

After I saw a mechanic drill a 1/2" hole on a truck frame in what looked liek a few seconds, I bought a set of Mac branded bits, box of 21, for just under $100.00.

Might have been a bit high priced at the time but I am **** glad I did it. Every tiem I drill through a piece of thick steel, it's like " Doh! How come I didn't et a set of these earlier?"

Sometimes you just have to bite the bullet and get the good stuff. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[bobodu]

Was poking around Harbor Freight the other day and ran across a bag of probably resharpened factory bits of various sizes for something like $3 for 25!!! These puppies are GREAT!!! I'm gonna grab some more next time.I touch them up when they get tired.I just start on the backside of the cutting edge...twisting slowly at first and speed up as I near the actual cutting edge.This ensures a good releif area.I use the flat of the grinder..a no no I know...but I never had a true wheel in my life. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Parttimer]

Thanks for all the info. I do remember my grandfather explaining the use of water or oil for cooling in different applications. I remember him explaining that in some cases the oil actually can bind somethings up???? I can not remember. I gues I will try some plain uncoated high speed twist drills, and I will look for a "good"? set of cobalt drills. The drill press is a cheap 12" delta bench top drill press. I have only used it for wood up untill now. I am going to try to find a quality tool store near me and take a visit. What rpms should the drill be turning for optimum cutting?? My drill press does not have variable speeds, goig to look for the manual to confirm, but it was not alot of money so I doubt it.

Another Question, Does anyone use an inexpensive bench top band saw for cutting metal? If so what blade do you use for good results, going to pick that up too.


Thanks guys for all the input, very helpfull. I was getting tired of reading the packages of drill bits and every one of them say they are better than the others, not very helpfull.

There is no replacing experience, and there is alot of experience on this board.

Dave /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Hib]

Most of the bench tops run with belt and pulleys. Should be able to change speed by moving the belt "under the hood'. Somewhere in the 700 rpm range would be a good bet. High speed bits are meant for just that....high speed applications. Meaning for use in 1/4 or 3/8 drills without the benefit of variable speed. I agree with what others have said "buy one or two good bits for the job". No need for a lot of cheapies you may never use.

 

[Parttimer]

Thanks Hib, Lifted the lid for the first time, guess what there is a chart on the inside for the rpms and the pullys. I just figured that it did not have any adjustments. Only used it a couple of times.

Dave