Question to the firewood gurus

[nyone]

I built a spitter years ago with a 15hp engine, 22gpm dual stage pump, 3/4 lines every where and 5in cylinder. Its fast and has a 4way permidently welded on it. I can cut wood right in half with it. How ever it's a pain to move, dosnt tip down and is electric start so the battery is always dead. I find my self useing a 22ton husky for 98* of my wood. For the 2% it dosnt split I throw it in the burn barrel.

 

[WinterDeere]

Yeah, that's the trouble, and it's why I've been sticking with this 22-ton Huskee chassis, despite having mostly out-grown it. It's light, it's easy to move by hand, it tips vertical in about 5 seconds... all good stuff. Really, if it had a larger tank and larger bung on the tank outlet, it'd be the perfect machine.

I have thought about just cutting one broad wall open on the tank, and welding my own tank extension onto it. I'd do the bung fitting at the same time, stepping that up to 1-1/2" NPT. But it might be easier to just sell this one and buy a 35-ton splitter chassis, as all that'd need would be a cylinder "downgrade" from 6-inch to 4-inch.

As to electric start, I solved the problem by putting a 50A connector on the splitter, instead of a battery. I bought a 15 ft cable set for all of $15 - $20, cut the big allegator clamps off each end, and mounted the same 50A connectors on each end of the cord, and then I mounted the same connector with direct battery connection (thru fuse) to each tractor. On a cold morning, I just park the tractor next to the splitter, plug in the cord, and start the splitter off the tractor battery. Never need to worry about maintaining a battery on the splitter, and no added weight while moving it.

 

[WinterDeere]

So, I just did a quick search on 35-ton splitters, thinking that a platform replacement might be easier and cheaper than enlarging my tank or adding a radiator to cool the too-hot ATF. But I'm surprised by what I find:

RuggedSplit 537-24-HE Tip Up Log Splitter: 37-Ton, Honda 270cc, 24" Stroke

Estimated restock date: 04/10/2025 This RuggedSplit 500 Series Tip Up Log Splitter is a versatile and powerful machine designed to perform both horizontal and vertical log-splitting duties. The features on this RS 537-24-HE model include: 37-ton ram force Honda 270cc engine, OHV, 4-stroke...

ruggedmade.com

This looks like a pretty respectable platform, with the 270cc Honda and 3/4" valve and ports. But the tank is only 8 gallons!

They don't specify pump size, but form their cylinder sizing and stroke time, we can easily calculate they're seeing net 15 GPM. Likely a standard 16 GPM pump spun slightly below spec RPM, or they're adding a second for time lost in reversing directions. So that's all fine, I already said earlier in this thread that 1/2 gallon capacity per 1 GPM pump size runs warm, but acceptable.

Anyone know of a reasonable (e.g. ~$3k) splitter chassis with a larger tank and line sizing? I don't mind upgrading a pump and swapping a cylinder, but if it comes down to doing the whole engine + pump + lines + valve + cylinder all over again, then I'd might as well just continue expanding on my current platform.

 

[BackRoad]

So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!

 

[arrow]

So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!

I’d say you’re right for the most part as there are other platforms for splitters such as the kinetic type.

 

[WinterDeere]

So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!

Yes. Ergonomics need to be decent as well, but a big pump on a 4" cylinder is going to be the key factors in keeping any impatient user happy.

Engine needs to be large enough to turn the pump, there's a direct relationship between GPM and input horsepower, and lines and ports need to be large enough to not restrict flow / build unreasonable back pressure over the operating temperature range. That's all easy, as manufacturers like Wuxi Butcher (who make the pumps for most consumer-grade splitters) have tables of recommend line sizing and input horsepower, for a given pump and conditions.

 

[dodge man]

Would it be worth plumbing in a little cooler? Mine gets pretty warm but not to hot to the touch.

 

[WinterDeere]

Would it be worth plumbing in a little cooler? Mine gets pretty warm but not to hot to the touch.

That was my plan, when I upgraded the pump from 16 GPM to 19 GPM. But it was winter, and I had wood to split, so I figured I'd give it a try and see how hot it ran.

The gauge on my tank shows the fluid never really creeping up above 180F, which means I might see over 200F on a warmer day, but then again... I don't do long splitting sessions on hot days. So, between that and the challenges of mounting a cooler where it will never get damaged while towing or with wood flying, I've just not bothered with it yet.

 

[nyone]

So is it accurate to say the key variables affecting splitter speed are high GPM working a small diameter (yet adequate strength) cylinder?

Everything else - engine size, pump size, plumbing size, fluid reservoir, valves, heat dissipation, welds and fitment either enhance or restrict that objective - but high GPM is key.

Ergonomics and build quality are important, though the objective is to boil down to what is most critical for a meaningful comparison between Splitter A and Splitter B...beyond color scheme and tire size!

Yes GPM to cylinder size matter. But when your 5in cyl with 4 way cycles 2sec slower than with a 4in and 2way wedge it's doing nearly 2x the work.. the work being split wood. Theres actually a calculator for splitter cycle time online I used years ago to figure out the specs for the one I built.

 

[nyone]

That was my plan, when I upgraded the pump from 16 GPM to 19 GPM. But it was winter, and I had wood to split, so I figured I'd give it a try and see how hot it ran.

The gauge on my tank shows the fluid never really creeping up above 180F, which means I might see over 200F on a warmer day, but then again... I don't do long splitting sessions on hot days. So, between that and the challenges of mounting a cooler where it will never get damaged while towing or with wood flying, I've just not bothered with it yet.

Before I mount a cooler I would also do what you did and see how it ran. And before I mounted a cooler I would try to add capacity. Adding capacity isnt really that hard if you dont care if the splitter looks factory. Granted it is a bit difficult to add capacity to splitter with a hydraulic tank that's also an axle...not not impossible with a welder.