def38
Platinum Member
I'm not sure what you mean. How can I tell?
Does the temperature gauge work? If so, what does it read after warm up?
I'm not sure what you mean. How can I tell?
If you can confirm that the valve stem seals are letting oil into the intake, they can be replaced without removing the head. It will involve some method of keeping the valve in the closed (up) position, compressing the spring, removing the keepers then removing each spring. The stem seal will be slipped over the top of the guide.
I bet youtube could explain it even better than this.
Did a compression test. 120 on the back 2 cylinders, 90 on the front 2 cylinders. Thinking about a seafoam treatment, then a lucas oil treatment with some straight 40 weight oil, and adding non-foulers. What do you think about that strategy?
I personally don't care for the idea. Additives are often nothing more than snake oil treatments or band aids. Rislone might be good, but you're going to have to put a lot of hours on the machine for it to do any good, and those hours are going to have to be "working" hours. SAE 20W-50 oil might buy a little more time along with a step hotter on the plugs, but it's still a band aid measure.
Those two 90 readings might be the beginning of a head gasket breakdown. When you have adjacent cylinders with readings like that, you must always consider that possibility. Get things warmed up and do another test. If you get the same results, then put a very small amount of oil in each cylinder. Repeat the test. If you get the same results again, then you have a valve or gasket problem. If the results are a little higher and more even, then it points to rings as the main culprit. I would probably still pull the head at some point.