Questions about metal roof

   / Questions about metal roof #11  
I have observed that laying metal directly over sheathing results in very rapid corrosion of the underside of the metal due to the condensation being trapped between metal and wood.
So much so that in less than 10 years a galvanized roof was total scrap.
You need to let air circulate under the metal!
That condensation can get so bad (depending on climates) that on some cases the dripping actually wetted attic insulation to the point that the gyprock ceiling in a home was costantly water damaged.

My wood shed is tin roof, and in spring with cold snow on top combined with warm spring air inside the shed, the condensation is so severe that it literally rains inside!

No disrespect but I have two sheds with metal roofing on spaced 1x4's and a house with a metal roofing on sheathing with tar paper between the roofing and sheathing and a vented attic and haven't experienced any condensation problems with either method. Maybe it is more a problem in your climate? I'm in Maine and we get plenty of snow but it seems to slide pretty fast. The pitch is only 6/12 too. It comes down all at once with a crash sometimes!
 
   / Questions about metal roof #12  
I made heavy trusses and ran purlins between them about 36" on center. No rafters.
 
   / Questions about metal roof #13  
The correct answer is YES!

OP said he wants to build a very inexpensive shed that will just be used for firewood once he builds his new garage. He has been given instructions on how to build an expensive roof for a home which is not what he desires.

With a roof only 12' wide it is perfectly permissible to screw the panels directly to your rafters as long as your rafters are secure and do not need any extra 2x4 bracing which would probably not be needed on a roof that small since your rafters will only be 6' long unless it is a single sloped roof and then they are only 12' long.

The trick to it is to run the metal panels horizontal on the rafters instead of vertical. As long as you have enough slope on the roof it will be sturdy and not leak. It is best when running panels horizontal to use low rise panels and not R-panels.

Most of the small carports and sheds sold in our area have the metal running horizontal as in the image.

If you use metal siding it may be run horizontal also as long as the walls are braced properly.

Your firewood will remain dry and safe with much less expense. :)
 

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   / Questions about metal roof #14  
Don't underestimate the snow in your area. It doesn't cost a lot the build a good shed. Build your own trusses with 2x4s -24" OC, 6" or 8" pitch. Whether a cheap building falls on snowmobiles or woodpile it will be a total loss. The size of the purlins depends on span & spacing. Excess span a/o excess spacing will result in sagging/buckling ultimately reducing longevity. Money saved by spreading the purlins can be wasted if you have to walk on the roof & it gets damaged. Especialy important when ice/snow falls from one roof to another, ie from a main roof onto a leanto. My barn has 50' trusses spaced at 40" with 2x4 purlins spaced 24", 5/12 pitch. It will & does hold 2' of dry snow. My bridge has 2x4 rafters 24" oc 12/12 pitch &1x5 purlins 24"oc & no snow accumulates on it. In all cases the metal roofing is attached with gasketed screws.
Tallyho, With all due respect - your carport wouldn't last past the first lake effect snowstorm in the OP's area. Take a look at their snowfall numbers & compare to LA. NWS Buffalo Climate Information - Buffalo Monthly Snowfall (2000s) MikeD74T
 

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   / Questions about metal roof #15  
The image I posted was just to show how horizontal roofing is run. His building must have much more pitch in a heavy snow area and also he is making it out of wood with rafters on 16" centers. 26 gauge metal on 16" centers with a good pitch should be sturdy enough.
 
   / Questions about metal roof #16  
The image I posted was just to show how horizontal roofing is run. His building must have much more pitch in a heavy snow area and also he is making it out of wood with rafters on 16" centers. 26 gauge metal on 16" centers with a good pitch should be sturdy enough.

OP is in NY where they get lot of snow. Horizontal ridges would prevent the snow sliding down and possibly accumulate enough to cause damage to the roof or the shed. Since the building is small nailing 2X4 on the trusses is way to go. It will add very little expense IMHO. In fact OP could place the trusses farther apart to save on cost and then nail the 2X4 on the edge to increase load-bearing capacity.
 
   / Questions about metal roof #17  
I swear by 1/4" bubble wrap with foil on both sides. Comes in six foot widths. Is relatively inexpensive. I have not heard that it will lead to premature metal rusting. Cuts the sound from a heavy rain way down. Eliminates dripping totally. Lay it over the purlins starting at the bottom with a little overlap same as tarpaper. Secure the roof tin directly over it.
 

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