Questions about remotes

[Doc_Bob]

Remotes. I have some newbie questions about remotes. Everybody talks about them and installs them. I am not really sure what implements require them (additional remotes that is). Folks talk about stacked versus non-stacked, 1, 2, or 3, rear and front. Easy for owner to install versus having the dealer install them.

Questions:
1) How many should someone have? 1, 2 or 3?
2) What implements require them?
3) Dealer install versus owner install?
4) Front or rear remote or both?

I know this is quite a few questions. If I should be asking elsewhere, let me know.
Bob

 

[JerryG]

Bob,
1) I would say to always to get at least two.
2) I use mine the most with a rear blade. There are several things that use them. Mowers, blades and T&T to name a few.
3) The dealer installed are usually cleaner, but owner installed ones can actually be tailored for the owner more.
4) Most uses are in the rear, but some things like grapples and tree shears need them in the front.

 

[MadReferee]

Ditto what Jerry said.

However, non-factory components for a do it yourself set of remotes will always be cheaper than the factory remotes. It may not look and install as cleanly but the cost savings could be as much as 50% or more. That translates to several hundred dollars cheaper.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( However, non-factory components for a do it yourself set of remotes will always be cheaper than the factory remotes. It may not look and install as cleanly but the cost savings could be as much as 50% or more. )</font>

I disagree with that as a blanket statement Mad. My first remote on my tractor was $500 and the remaining two were less than $225 each. This is a stackable assembly with factory levers and hard tubing to the fittings with all mounting hardware for an easy bolt-together installation. I took 1-1/2 hours to install the whole thing with removal of the right-rear tire. I didn't have to plan, draw schematics, make a parts list, find vendors, prototype, assemble, or any of the other things that add cost to a DIY job. I just ordered the pre-engineered setup, installed it, and went to work. I think if you had done this job, you would not make a blanket statement like that. I know all New Hollands and other brands are not as easy, but on the Class III Boomers, TC35/40/45, I don't think you can beat the factory setup for cost or convenience.

I'm attaching a picture of my remotes when I was fitting up my tilt cylinder and before I got the CCI toplink. You can see how neatly the kit fits on the rear of the tractor and the stack of remote valves is visible by the right wheel. I have since also run a set of 1/4" hoses up to my rock bucket grapple. So, the three remotes for less than $1000 total are installed and allow me to run TnT and my grapple. They also are factory units with parts support and the ability to be worked on easily at any NH dealer. I think there's a lot of value in that. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[PineRidge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( However, non-factory components for a do it yourself set of remotes will always be cheaper than the factory remotes. It may not look and install as cleanly but the cost savings could be as much as 50% or more. )</font>

I disagree with that as a blanket statement Mad. My first remote on my tractor was $500 and the remaining two were less than $225 each. This is a stackable assembly with factory levers and hard tubing to the fittings with all mounting hardware for an easy bolt-together installation. I took 1-1/2 hours to install the whole thing with removal of the right-rear tire. I didn't have to plan, draw schematics, make a parts list, find vendors, prototype, assemble, or any of the other things that add cost to a DIY job. I just ordered the pre-engineered setup, installed it, and went to work. I think if you had done this job, you would not make a blanket statement like that. I know all New Hollands and other brands are not as easy, but on the Class III Boomers, TC35/40/45, I don't think you can beat the factory setup for cost or convenience.

I'm attaching a picture of my remotes when I was fitting up my tilt cylinder and before I got the CCI toplink. You can see how neatly the kit fits on the rear of the tractor and the stack of remote valves is visible by the right wheel. I have since also run a set of 1/4" hoses up to my rock bucket grapple. So, the three remotes for less than $1000 total are installed and allow me to run TnT and my grapple. They also are factory units with parts support and the ability to be worked on easily at any NH dealer. I think there's a lot of value in that. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif )</font>

I second Jim's remark as we also installed a set of 3 rear remotes on our Class III machine. Everything right down to the stickers for the controls was in the kit and it all went together without a hitch. I wish all my projects were just that easy.

 

[daTeacha]

I ordered a custom plumbing setup on my DX29, running the quick connects to the point where the loader connectors are and then another line to the front of the loader for the grapple with quick connects at both ends. The dealer estimates $150 labor, but I don't remember the parts cost offhand. Everything will be tucked up out of the way of errant branches and pretty much out of sight. The lines on the loader will be between the hard lines already there. I figured it would turn out better with the tractor and the hose making tools in the same place at the same time rather than measuring and allowing a little extra to make sure it wasn't too short then having extra hose to deal with at one end or the other. If I add a second set, I'll probably do it myself.

 

[jinman]

Rich, depending on how many right angle adapters, swivels, and quick connects (at least three sets) your dealer adds. I'd expect a parts bill with hoses to be in the $250 to $300 range in addition to the $150 labor. I found my dealers charge for a right-angle adapter to be over twice the cost of ordering the same part from Surplus Center. I do my own hoses because it's so much cheaper to do my own custom work. I can't beat the price and convenience of the remote valves, but I can do hoses and plumbing a heck of lot cheaper than my dealer can. At least that's been my experience so far.

 

[MadReferee]

Jim,
So you arre saying 3 factory remotes (less installation cost) will be cheaper than say a 3 spool Prince SV valve with hoses and fittings. I don't think so. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

My comment was that the do-it-yourself setup would be a few hundred dollars cheaper but not look as integrated as the factory setup. I would always vote for the factory setup but not everyone can afford the extra few hunderd bucks.

 

[daTeacha]

Jim,

What is your investment in tools to put the fittings on the hoses so they don't leak? I basically have none at this point.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Jim,

What is your investment in tools to put the fittings on the hoses so they don't leak? I basically have none at this point. )</font>

Rich, since I bought the hoses with fittings already installed, I put them together with a couple of 8" adjustable wrenches (Crescent wrenches) and a can of TFE paste. You don't want to make the mistake of not using TFE paste and try to put the connections together "dry." You can use teflon tape if you know what you are doing, but I would not recommend that to someone doing this job without a lot of experience. By using the TFE paste and making sure all fittings are tight, you should have nice hoses with no leaks whatsoever. Did you think there were more tools required? You can even buy re-usable fittings for the ends of hoses and install them yourself, but I didn't do that. MadRef has experience with those and can tell you what is required. For me, planning the hoses and fittings was much harder than putting it all together.

 

[jinman]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Jim,
So you arre saying 3 factory remotes (less installation cost) will be cheaper than say a 3 spool Prince SV valve with hoses and fittings. I don't think so. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

My comment was that the do-it-yourself setup would be a few hundred dollars cheaper but not look as integrated as the factory setup. I would always vote for the factory setup but not everyone can afford the extra few hunderd bucks.
)</font>

Mad, I would sure say you are right about the cost of the Prince 3-spool valve, but you can't drive around with that sitting in your lap with hoses running off everywhere. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif (wry humor intended) You have to mount it somewhere convenient and plumb it into your system. By the time you do that, there will be significant additional cost of materials and time for all those things I mentioned before. I've seen guys wrestle with their own home-brew setups for months before they get a satisfactory setup. Essentially, I believe the cost of that Prince valve could be the beginnings of a money pit nightmare for someone less skilled than yourself.

My point is that with the spending of $950 and 1-1/2 hours, almost anyone can step back and have a perfect three remote setup on their Class III Boomer. It may take a little longer on some of the other Boomers. I cannot remember ever seeing anyone complete a setup on any Boomer that is different from the factory setup, have you? If you can spend $24k on a tractor, surely $500-$725-$950 more for 1-2-3 remotes is within your budget.

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> What is your investment in tools to put the fittings on the hoses so they don't leak? </font>
Teach,
I don't know what tools you are talking about? I have put hydraulics on equipment for years and the most exotic wrench that you need is one that fits the hoses. A couple of crescents will do. Like Mad said the whole set up could easily be 50% less expensive.

 

[daTeacha]

I replied to this earlier, but apparently didn't get it posted.

Jim, I thought you were making up your own hoses. I can do the plumbing aspects of the job, but getting the fittings on the hoses is not something I have the tools for. The other thing that caused me to let dealer do it is that I want a very neat tucked in fitting of all hoses. The dealership does a lot of hydraulic work, including making their own hoses. Since I'm running this to the demountable grapple cylinder that will be in the center of the bucket, I want all the hoses and fittings as sheltered and protected as possible. If I did it as a first effort with hydraulics, I'd probably get some too short and some too long and have to use the hydraulic equivalent of the Amish beam stretcher or buy another set of hoses. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I talked with them about running the lines through flexible electrical conduit and then putting the fittings on the ends as an extra measure of protection out where the lines will be likely to get tangled in the brush piles, and they're looking into the feasibility of it. I don't know if the conduit will have enough flex for this application, though.

I'm probably being paranoid, but I can picture a line getting caught up in a branch and being torn or punctured, which would be less than fun.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I talked with them about running the lines through flexible electrical conduit )</font>

My dozer's two clamshell bucket hoses, the ones from the loader arms to the clam, are enclosed in some type of flexible steel conduit. It is still the original from 1963, a little rusted, but the hoses are ok. I would say the conduit works for extreme usage conditions where the hoses are subject to constant abrasion.

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> but getting the fittings on the hoses is not something I have the tools for. </font>
Anyone that wants to make their own hoses a home can without expensive presses, tools etc. There are fittings that are referred to as reusable fittings that can be installed on hoses with only hand tools. They are a little more expensive, but can be transferred to new hose when needed.