ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Wow, that looks really cruddy. When you cleaned the switch previously, did you get it anywhere as clean as this time? If so, it's hard to understand how the switch got so fouled so fast.
Questions for LandedaKioti
- Thread starter ON84
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Wow, that looks really cruddy. When you cleaned the switch previously, did you get it anywhere as clean as this time? If so, it's hard to understand how the switch got so fouled so fast.
MotorSeven
Elite Member
I'm thinking the nice salt air in a shipping container that has no vents. Sun hit's it and moisture can't get out so it becomes humid like a low tide swamp, then it gets dark & cools. Repeat this many times on the dock on the ship and I can see how the copper gets attacked. The sad thing is $1.00 worth of Di-electric grease in those fittings would have prevented all failures to date.
The fix is simple although time consuming. Remove switch, disassemble, soak in White Vinegar for 30min or so. Rinse with water, apply di-electric grease and re-assemble. White vinegar will not harm plastic, so you can soak all electrical connectors without pulling the wires out. Rinse/grease/re-connect. Any time I have a connector apart on any vehicle I own it gets vinegar if needed, then grease.
Believe it or not when a Scuba Regulator is rebuilt this is the exact procedure except only silicone grease is used on the o-rings.
The fix is simple although time consuming. Remove switch, disassemble, soak in White Vinegar for 30min or so. Rinse with water, apply di-electric grease and re-assemble. White vinegar will not harm plastic, so you can soak all electrical connectors without pulling the wires out. Rinse/grease/re-connect. Any time I have a connector apart on any vehicle I own it gets vinegar if needed, then grease.
Believe it or not when a Scuba Regulator is rebuilt this is the exact procedure except only silicone grease is used on the o-rings.
landedakioti
Gold Member
The pictures of my old switch. When I got the one from the dealer that one wasn't bad as this one. Mine had a break in the white plastic. It is nice to go out turn a key and it turns over. Knock on wood
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
When my switch acted up (stopped power to glow plugs when switch rotated to crank position) the problem appeared to be actual dirt/dust that invaded the contact area vs mold and mildew. I cleaned it and lubed that area with dielectric grease but now I wonder if I could/should have sealed against dirt intrusion. Is that even possible with an open key hole?
Does anyone know if/how the new switch is redesigned and will the redesign prevent these problems?
On a positive note, it's nice that the switch fix is so inexpensive and easy to install, IMO.
Does anyone know if/how the new switch is redesigned and will the redesign prevent these problems?
On a positive note, it's nice that the switch fix is so inexpensive and easy to install, IMO.
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landedakioti
Gold Member
Kioti didn't give me a updated switch so I will keep my eye on it. Make me little mad they said the updated switch is for 2011-12 . When the dealer in NJ sold use the rector all the paperwork has it as a 2012 model. What to do.
murphy1244
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2011
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- Location
- Ohio
- Tractor
- Kubota 1120 RTV Kioti DK-40, MF-135, Ventrac 4500Y
How do you know its not a updated switch. What is your serial #
