questions for you hydraulic experts please!!!

   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!!
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Excellent! I am not using the old cylinders because they were sitting outdoors for 25 years, but I will buy the same size the owners manual specifies (found a manual on E Bay). I agree that the 12 v will be more convenient and since the price is about the same, I think I will go that route.
With what do I block the rod end of the slave cylinder with. I am sure there is a breather plug of some kind. Who sells those and what are they called? Will a 12 volt single action pump with a gallon tank be what I need?

What is the valve for in the diagram I sent. Is it used to coordinate or synchronize the two cylinders? I could not see the purpose of it otherwise.

Thanks for the explantation! I removed this entire assembly from the old planter and since I wanted a transportable cultipacker (and enjoy projects and a chance to weld) I hated not to use it as it is rock solid.

Today was a pefect example of why I want this packer to be able to be pulled by a vehicle. My buddy and I do all of the food plot work but have such limited time to spend that we need to be efficient. While I was discing today, he could be following me with a drag harrow and cultipacker and we could have been done, ready to plant. But we have only one tractor, so a cultipacker able to be pulled with a 4 WD truck would speed things up.
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!! #12  
that's good to hear. i use a scintered bronze breather for out doors you can get them at any hyd. supply. yes that is the pump you need. the valve does look like an adjuster and maybe a way the used to prime that circuit. good luck with it i hope it serves you well.
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!! #13  
here's a better idea since your buying cylinders anyways and using the 12v pump. buy two 2.5 bore x 8 stroke cylinders and two scintered bronze breathers run your pr line from pump to a t and connect the two cylinder ext. ports same pump same amount of force. a much simpler set up
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!!
  • Thread Starter
#14  
that makes sense. Wonder why they did not do that in the first place? Thanks again for taking the time to study my diagrams and offer your help!! How critical is priming? Do I have to fill all the hoses and cylinders completely or will any residual air escape??
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!! #15  
priming is important but you only need to fill the lines before hooking up. and before the math guys bust me it should be 3" cylinders for the same force i forgot a factor when i was adding last night. i suspect that only moving a small amount of oil was a key factor in their decision for whatever reason, it does keep the wheels in sync. better , but as long as you have weight on the tires this will lift even. i really don't forsee a scenario where this would be an issue on transporting a cultipacker.
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!!
  • Thread Starter
#16  
So you think use two 3" cylinders with a tee or just plumb it the way in the diagram? Also, if I use the steel pipe and fittings, is that just standard galvanized pipe or black gas pipe, or is there some special hydraulic pipe. All I am familiar with is what Home Depot sells. The pump I am looking at has a 3 qt capacity. Model 9-1479 from surplus center. Shouldn't that be plenty?
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!! #17  
here's a better idea since your buying cylinders anyways and using the 12v pump. buy two 2.5 bore x 8 stroke cylinders and two scintered bronze breathers run your pr line from pump to a t and connect the two cylinder ext. ports same pump same amount of force. a much simpler set up

that makes sense. Wonder why they did not do that in the first place? Thanks again for taking the time to study my diagrams and offer your help!! How critical is priming? Do I have to fill all the hoses and cylinders completely or will any residual air escape??

by doing this the wheels will not be synchronized. whichever cylinder has a lighter load will move first and will pick up the machine unevenly.

if you use the same setup as original , you have to use the sizes specified. the 3" cylinder has the same displacement on the rod end as the 2" on the base end. if they are not the same displacement it will not lift evenly. one cylinder will stroke out before the other one side will be lower. The 3" cylinder has to have a 1" rod to have the correct displacement.
2" cyl base surface area=6.28".
3" cyl rod end surface area=9.42"-3.14"(the area of the rod that is taken from the piston area)=6.28.
they will move evenly and both will reach full stroke at the same time.
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!!
  • Thread Starter
#18  
scrappy isb67 said:
by doing this the wheels will not be synchronized. whichever cylinder has a lighter load will move first and will pick up the machine unevenly.

if you use the same setup as original , you have to use the sizes specified. the 3" cylinder has the same displacement on the rod end as the 2" on the base end. if they are not the same displacement it will not lift evenly. one cylinder will stroke out before the other one side will be lower. The 3" cylinder has to have a 1" rod to have the correct displacement.
2" cyl base surface area=6.28 ci.
3" cyl rod end surface area=9.42ci-3.14ci(the area of the rod that is taken from the piston area)=6.28ci.
they will move evenly and both will reach full stroke at the same time.

Ok. I trust your math! So any standard tie rod cylinder will work as long as I use one 3" master and one 2.5" as specified? Upon reading my manual, it says 2.5 , not 2" for the slave.
 
   / questions for you hydraulic experts please!!! #19  
tubing is more durable galvanized or black pipe aren't a good choice although schedule 80 pipe would do the job i would use stainless hydraulic tubing or just hoses. if lifting even is a big deal use the original setup i figured since it was only transport no biggie since once they stroke out their even, same pressure and all that. this is a different machine than the original. i doubt any uneveness going to full stroke will be an issue. either way it's still a simple function with simple setups. for the 2 3" cyl your moving just under 2 qts. and only 1 qt. with the original so it will be fine.if your going to go original buy the ones you were going to get so that they are matched for flow.
 

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