Loader Quick Attachment Interchangeability

[IslandTractor]

Does this mean Kioti's buckets don't fit other SSQAs?

I don't think my DK40se bucket would fit most other SS adapters. That is my guess. Point is that the SS standard is somewhat loose but Kioti chose the narrowest interpretation and I know that I have had other SS adapters that were wider.

 

[duanekeys]

I have a DK40se with KL401, the QA works with any standard skidsteer (Bobcat) style attachment. That said, the width of the Kioti adapter is narrower than the typical SS implement so there is about three inches of slop on either side. It mounts securely however with lateral pressure on the grapple it can slide to one side. No biggie and it could easily be fixed by putting in a spacer if it bothers you. Photo shows gap on outside of the Kioti adapter shoe through the grapple. No effect on function. Never popped off.

Bottom line: Kioti QA works with any universal skidsteer attachment

Can you describe how you plumbed out the extra controls for the grapple? My neighbor has a bobcat and I can borrow the grapple, but I first need to get an extra set of hydraulics to power the claw and I'm curious how others have done it. My dealer recommended using the rear remote but it seems like it wouldn't be very ergonomic and I couldn't actuate the claw and articulate the loader at the same time.

Also, don't you need some sort of adapter to go from the bobcat style hydraulic connector to the tractor style? (flat versus ball type, not sure of the correct terms).

 

[IslandTractor]

Can you describe how you plumbed out the extra controls for the grapple? My neighbor has a bobcat and I can borrow the grapple, but I first need to get an extra set of hydraulics to power the claw and I'm curious how others have done it. My dealer recommended using the rear remote but it seems like it wouldn't be very ergonomic and I couldn't actuate the claw and articulate the loader at the same time.

Also, don't you need some sort of adapter to go from the bobcat style hydraulic connector to the tractor style? (flat versus ball type, not sure of the correct terms).

First, what size tractor do you have? (edit: I just checked your profile so you are OK) The Bobcat grapples are typically quite heavy and much heavier than needed for tractor work. If the grapple weighs a thousand pounds and you have only a bit more lift capacity than that you aren't going to get much work done. You will have trouble using a heavy grapple with less than a KL401 loader.

I would agree with your dealer that the simpliest way to rig hydraulic controls is using the rear remotes. I did that with my CK20 and it worked very well. Total cost is just a couple sets of fittings and two lengths of 3/8 inch hose about 18 feet long (measure using a hose). The ergonomics are fine. No different than using a "four on the floor" manual transmission shifter where you quickly develop the muscle position memory to easily drop your hand off the steering wheel to change gears or operate the grapple without looking. Although my current tractor has a FEL joystick mounted solonoid diverter switch, I actually found the rear remote to be at least as good. The true electric over hydraulic system is probably best but is the most expensive of the three options and can easily run well over a grand to install.

To measure for the hydraulic hose just use an old garden hose to trace out a route from the rear remote fittings over the rear axle (left side) under the operator station then up the left FEL mounting post and down the FEL arm to terminate on the torque bar. Just measure the hose length necessary. Shouldn't cost more than about $100 even if you get it from a local hydraulic shop. Leave enough for gentle bends especially coming up the FEL post. On my CK I just used zip ties to hold the hoses in place and out of the way.

If you are only going to use your neighbor's equipment then just rig your tractor with the flat face skidsteer type connectors at the bucket end. Otherwise you will need to either change the connectors each time (minor hassle with loss of a bit of hydraulic oil each time) or make up an adapter piece that goes from flat connector to Pioneer style (tractor style) connector. To do the latter you would just need two short piece of hose with SAE fittings and then one set of each of the flat and pioneer style connectors. Would probably cost about $50 (hoses about $5-10 via internet, Pioneer connectors about $15 and I think the flat faced connectors are about $25 a set maybe more).

 

[wallace]

I sell a direct bolt on third function kit that replaces your factory joystick handle with a handle that has a rocker switch in it.
You will then have 2 hydraulic lines that run to the front of your loader.
They will have 1/2" quick couplers. I can supply you with the flat face to pioneer style quick coupler adapters.
Email me for more info and pricing.

 

[IslandTractor]

I sell a direct bolt on third function kit that replaces your factory joystick handle with a handle that has a rocker switch in it.
You will then have 2 hydraulic lines that run to the front of your loader.
They will have 1/2" quick couplers. I can supply you with the flat face to pioneer style quick coupler adapters.
Email me for more info and pricing.

Rick's kit would eliminate a lot of research on connectors, sizes of lines and adapters etc. I presume he is describing the diverter valve type set up which is what I have on my DK40se (mine is a WR Long installed by Rick's crew). This is a no brainer turn key solution that would look cleaner and require only connecting some hoses and a couple of electrical connectors.

 

[duanekeys]

I pick it up on Friday, it's a DK40SE with the KL401. The set up you guys are discussing does sound simple, but you have to choose which function you want to use at a time, correct? So for example you could close the grapple with the switch in one setting, then you would flip it to actuate the bucket roll or the lift?

 

[slowzuki]

In skidsteers there is a generic q/a but not every manufacturer has an identical loader side mount. Lots of little differences but they mostly interchange.

The common larger tractor q/a is the euro/alo style. Over in europe they have about 6 types of q/a but luckily only one type mainly got over here. Jd have there own for compact and another for larger machines. MF used to have their own for large tractors but finally went to euro/alo style.

 

[wallace]

I pick it up on Friday, it's a DK40SE with the KL401. The set up you guys are discussing does sound simple, but you have to choose which function you want to use at a time, correct? So for example you could close the grapple with the switch in one setting, then you would flip it to actuate the bucket roll or the lift?

Not exactely...This is a self centering rocker switch that will allow you to do all 3 function at one time if your that tallanted!:laughing:

 

[IslandTractor]

I pick it up on Friday, it's a DK40SE with the KL401. The set up you guys are discussing does sound simple, but you have to choose which function you want to use at a time, correct? So for example you could close the grapple with the switch in one setting, then you would flip it to actuate the bucket roll or the lift?

Actually the only system that requires using either the bucket dump/curl or the grapple open/close (not both together) is the diverter valve (which I have on my DK40se and I think is what Rick's kit uses). I have pretty much gotten used to it and it certainly is workable. My problem with it is more that once you get used to doing it (hitting the button to control the grapple with same motion as dump/curl) you can sometimes inadvertently operate the wrong function by moving too fast. I will for example intend to close the grapple then curl the grapple but if I don't let go of the button before I start to curl, the grapple will open a bit. It is almost never necessary to both curl/dump and open/close simultaneously though so for me the problem is only that I get ahead of myself sometimes.

The use of rear remotes is also pretty much limited to one thing at a time but only because you have only one right hand and cannot easily control the joystick and the remote lever simultaneously. Of course you can reach your left hand over to the joystick if you really need to but that is certainly not good ergonomics.

The electric over hydraulic overcomes these issues as the button (usually a toggle) allows completely independent control. As mentioned earlier these systems are several hundred bucks more than the diverter valve based systems and with dealer installation cost well over a grand. I think JD charges something like $1500 or more. If I were doing it again on my DK I'd probably have to decide between the rear remote or go all the way to the electric over hydraulic. The diverter works fine but I'd rather just use the rear remotes and save seven or eight hundred to use on another implement.

Given the use of the rear remote is so easy to set up (someone like Rick can send you all the bits and pieces preassembled for not a whole lot more than what you'd end up spending via internet and less than a hydraulic shop would charge), my recommendation would be to try the rear remote set up first. If it works out for you then you are done and have saved big bucks. If you decide to move up to the diverter or electric over hydraulic you really haven't spent much and most of the fittings can be reused. Rick might even be able to figure out how to rig the rear remote with components from his kit so if you decided later to upgrade you could use all the rear remote parts except the hoses. Even the hoses could be reused later to run a splitter or somthing like that.

 

[duanekeys]

Great information. I think I'll try the rear remotes to start. I get a discount on parts from the auto parts company I work for and my local store happens to make hydraulic hoses.

Thanks for all the input.